I dunno about that. If you have a speaker that the manufacturer says to run 500 RMS, then you should run it 500 RMS. any higher should be distortion level. if it isn't distortion level, then it's not running at RMS. Root Mean Square is the rectified DC equivilant of AC. IE.. 1000W at .33 duty cycle is the same as 300W at 100% duty cycle in RMS. If you have a car that is supposed to run at 12 V, would you run it at 17 or 24V?


edit: RMS is the perfect highest non distorting level possible at a certain frequency of a sub. If you run at too high of a RMS for too long too frequently, you'll smoke the coil.

 

To start car shouldn't run at 12v it should run around 14 when on.
Second rms which is the wattage it can consistently send out from and amp
rms on a sub is the min you should consistently power it at

For example 500 watt rms sub should be paired with amp at least 500 rms.
No you shouldnt put 1000rms
but it is safe to putaroun 800 rms on it

 

no, it's not. RMS is a abstract concept when talking about music because you cannot constantly manage or even take readings. If you put in your favorite SPL competition tape on a system putting out 800RMS and hook it to a 500RMS subwoofer, you'll most likely end up with that piney rosiny smoked speaker smell after some time.

 

no you dont. an 800w rms amp will have a peak around 1150w. the sub may be able to handle that, but it will sound like crap, and decrease the sub's life by a bunch.

you can, but i wouldnt do it, and dont recommend anyone do it when building a system.

 

watts going to the sub do not change not matter how loud you listen to it wattage is a constant.
The spl cd will blow it because the sub is not made to hand the frequency for those extended periods of time.

And on the rms. Infinity refernce subs are like 250rm 1250 max. I have installed them in cars and given them over 500 rms continued and they run for 2 years so far. You will almost never blow a sub from over power unless its way over. Most subs are blown from underpowering them.

 

heh... that's not a true RMS rating, or it was designed for people who double the wattage rating on their speakers. either that or it is not a true max rating. Or maybe the cooling sucks on that speaker.


Anyways. here's why you shouldn't use a higher rating with a lower gain. I drew up this schematic for reference, but ANYONE can plainly see the final output high impedance stage is 200V difference in potential maximum no matter what. if you spike the input with static, loud head unit, or mis setting the gain control the output will be sent to 200V. I drew this to show you how the inside of the amp works.



BTW R2 IS RIGHT THERE! ^^^^ R2 is your gain control smile.gif




And the output waveform is switched around.

 

Ok this is gettin annoying. Call alpine tech support and ask them they will gladly back me up. I used to work at circuit city installing these for a few years, and now do it on my spare time. Call any company and they will tell you that putting more rms is not gonna blow your speaker as long as you do it accordingly. right now in my car i have a 500 wat rms alpine type r. I am pumping in over 700watts rms(Real rms from my $800 jbl amp.) it is crystle clear.

 

it's only 700 RMS as long as you run a constant AC signal INTO the amp. you're probly running much less

 

no im running 700rms consistently on my 500 watt rated sub. bring your spl cd bring your testing equipment if you want ill prove it

 

LOL, you still don't get it. RMS is a constant DC equivalant of constant AC. if there's a varriation in intensity, or a pause, it's NO LONGER RMS. RMS constantly changes. TRUE RMS = they ran a sine wave through it and took a reading.


edit: which is why they put warnings on SPL music