I don't know what's up here with the extra 1/2 inch thing. There COULD be a difference in motor mounts I suppose. Mine is a late 2001 model year Tib, when was yours Lee?

DTN, it's not an "ENGINE BALANCE", it's a vibration damper (the OEM weight/hockey puck thing you took off). Driving with it off for months, I didn't notice a difference, so no, it doesn't matter weight wise which way you put the damper. Guys, install it as the pics me and Lee have shown, and it'll work fine. CHECK yours when you get it to make sure it's assembled tightly, and like Lee said, don't be afraid to take it apart, it's easy to put back together.

And last time I checked, there are no bearings on this. 2 Heim joints, the tube and ends, the shaft, and the internals. If you really think yours is bad Adam, PM or Email BHurlin.

 

any update on my order? i understand i have to wait. all i want to know is if bhurlin got my email regarding the color of the damper.

i just want to make sure everything is straight before the order is shipped.

 

i didnt see DTN's post until now. hyman joints dont have bearings like REDZ said. you will definitely know when a hyman joint goes out cause you will have multiple pieces as the ball is press fit in.

my car is a 2001 Jer. yuh know, a little OT here but what month were RD2's given ABS, cause mine has it. no other RD2 I have seen has it, so i wonder if I have a very late like july/august 2001 model.

 

Well, I think my hyman is loose. (sexually oriented explanation here). I'm about 99% sure that's the problem as I've had it off a few times trying to get rid of the vibration. Is there anything that can be done to make it press in more or take up some slack?

 

^^^
tools needed

10" adjustable wrench
rubber strap style grip wrench ( kind you would use perhaps for changing a oil filter, many uses for them, very adjustable.

1.on the non-adjustable hyman end, adjust the 10" crescent to fit the slot on that end. get a tight grip with the other rubber strap wrench around the dampener tube. loosen until you can unscrew it all the way apart.

2. there is a bolt that that goes through one of the white grommets on the inside. tighten that bastard as much as you can and maybe even apply some candle wax on the threads so that it won't come apart.

3. put it all back together making sure you have that thin ribbon style lock washer on the non adjustable hyman end. if not, it will come back apart.

4. make all your adjustments on the screw end and show me a pic at the end .

 

No, it's the bearing itself that's loose in the sleve. the part that you put the bolt through. Maybe I'm not understanding the directions. The metalic portion that is meant to rotate, that's the part that has play. How do you tighten that on either end of the damper? I've got one on the moving hyman that is making noise.

 

oh, guess i didnt understand either. you can actually jiggle the ball inside the hyman housing? if so, that does need to be replaced but if its only that you can rotate, they are meant to do that. if it jiggles and rattles, contact NRG. if you jiggle and it rotates, it is working properly.

you can grease them as they have a grease zirk on that end, but i have never seen a zirk that small in my life beofre, so i dont know what the gun end would look like.

 

Anyone have any idea if we can find a damper that's the same length and is better quality (hydraulic/gas instead of whatever this is)? Mine rattles too,

 

No, you won't find one like that.

Trust me, I looked for well over a year for them, ALL of these, even the $300 ones that Ingalls makes, are the exact same design (except ingalls uses a $15 damper, same one as Weapon R).

If you don't like it, sell it and go with solid mounts, but don't bad mouth it and call it cheap, these are well made, and high quality, everyone that has handled them and been in the field (Maxtibb, UrSoNvUS, DMDicks, and more), all agreed on them.

they rattle because of the heim joints, the little ball needs to be able to pivot, and that takes clearance. They also have to get the ball into the joint, and that takes clearance.

I'm editing your post to remove the last part, you want to post on other dampers, post it in a new thread, this is for the NRG/KFX damper.

BTW, my dad, a union machinist for BNSF railroad, also thought they were well made and looked good.

He also commented that their version of a "engine damper" in the 60's/70's was a chain welded from the block to the frame.

wonder if that rattled.

 

Haha. Chain.

This look like they are extremely well made. Great to see people coming together to get products made.

I am planning on buying one of these. If it fits on my 2000 Elantra,(which it should) Kfx could update it and sell to elantra owners also.