^^ They do require the car to be off at official DB Drag events. But they usually only last about a minute or two, just until they can determine a winner by SPL levels. That's also not how any average person would listen to their music. The subwoofers in DB Drags are pushed way past distortion point to make louder sounds.

Are you seriously running a 1400W RMS amp in a tib?

 

its 1600watts RMS and i do run it with the car off beacuse i do like to cruise in at spots around town and listen to music. but i dont ever really run into any problems anymore with the kinetic battery because it has the power of a 2000farad cap anyways.

 

^^ no, a battery can never even match the power of a 1F capacitor dude.
A cap will charge as fast as you can put electricity into it. A battery takes up to 4 hours to fully charge.
Capacitors are meant for quick charging and discharging. A battery is a long-term power storage device.
A capacitor can be fully discharged (0% power) an unlimited number of times. A battery can be fully discharged once before it is destroyed.
A cap will never go bad from overuse/misuse. You'll be replacing your battery soon enough.

Also, unless your battery is capable of 28,000 Amps in 1 seccond, you've been given the wrong information man.

 

HO Alt 160amp with 187max output ->
Optima Red Top ->
12F Cap ->
Amp ->
Subs ->

Yes for DB event but that is way different then what we are talking about, we are not sealing our vehicles and distorting subs to hit a high DB. Just for cruising and listening to the stereo @car shows. I figured people would understand CAP > 2nd BAT for their vehicles by now with all these threads...

Will let you know though DTN with the HO alt installed how everything works out.

 

well i do know that when it comes to electronics you are extremely knowledged person, but i've heard that from 3 diffrent shops in town with one of them being in the city for over 30 years. but alot of times people just say things to sell stuff and i realize this. but here is what the manufacutor has to say

kinetik website
this is talkin about the hc600 model i have the one above it hc800



"I have heard the Kinetik HC600 called the "Cap Killer", why?

* A capacitor discharges its entire capacity very quickly. The HC600 can supply substantially higher power for a much longer duration.
* A capacitor can stop your lights from dimming if the alternator and the vehicles electrical system work properly, but in most cases it will not "keep up" with the power demands of your system. With over 100 times the power of a one farad capacitor, the Kinetik "Cap Killer" HC600 will help maintain the proper voltage and current required to power additional electronics such as amplifiers and video equipment.
* You do not have to isolate the Kinetik "Cap Killer" HC600 from the vehicle, it was designed to supplement the energy storage capacity of your electrical system in order to enhance the performance of aftermarket electronics. Isolating it from the electrical system would defeat this purpose.
* Although the Kinetik "Cap Killer" HC600 can be mounted almost anywhere in your vehicle, for optimum performance it should be mounted as close to the load as possible."

Kinetik HC800 Power Cell
More powerful than 200 1 farad caps!
Compact power that fits anywhere. Use as a reinforcement for amplifiers or as your starting battery where weight is a concern, such as racing applications.

Specifications
Weight: 26 lbs.
Ah: 36
Amps: 950
Dimensions: 7.6" x 5" x 6"
Suggested Retail: $229.00

this is what they had to say about it and its exactally what everyone else around who i asked said about them. its not the same as buying a optimo "color" top. they arent designed the same and they dont do the same task because of that.

 

After reviewing the specs on that battery, then reviewing the specs on the optima blue top batteries...

That battery can only provide 850A of power. The optima blue top can provide 900A
That battery can provide 30 Amp-hours of power. The optima blue top can provide 75AH.

When they compare it to a capacitor, it is completely wrong. A capacitor has capacitance, a battery has electrochemical reactivity.
All a battery can do is provide amperage at a certain voltage for a certain time. The blue top optima has the "cap killer" beat hands down. Optima does not need to use confusing statements because they make a good product..


Read those four statements like this:
1. this battery does not discharge anywhere near as fast as a capacitor. It's a battery.
2. Replacing your old battery will cure headlight dimming for a while. Batteries wear out.
3. It's a battery. You should know how to hook up a battery.
4. Wires have a small ammount of resistance and you will get the best performance by reducing the lenght of wire between the load and the battery.



I think you should realize that some companies use marketing techniques because Joe Q consumer will buy it. If I were to start marketing the cheapest LEDs on E-Bay and say they use less power, they're brighter, stronger, last longer, and run cooler then all of the rest of the competition, it's all true statements about LEDs, but that basically describes an LED, not LEDs versus other LEDs. I could write a sentance about each of the statements and it would all be true, and slightly confusing.

 

There is a point when additional batteries can benefit a audio system, though several things need to be considered.

I will use my vehicle as an example...
HO Alt 160amp with 187max output -> (Installed tomorrow)
Optima Red Top ->
12F Cap ->
Amp ->
Subs ->

At this point if I am still having additional issues with draw from the system I will be installing a Second Battery in the trunk before the cap to assist when I am showing off persay. But DTN hit it on the nose, the "Cap Killer" is a "sealed" gel cell batt, just like a Optima (color) battery and does not have the ability to rapidly charge/release energy.

Honestly though the only way to currently strain my vehicles electical system with AC/Lights running is by pulling 140-190amps would is just detrimental to your hearing when seated inside the vehicle.

Also if you have alot of items you run with the vehicle off, ex. Monitors/Dvd/Gaming Systems a second battery is a blessing when installed with a cutoff(to prevent drain from your main battery so your vehicle will start). Regardless I would suggest you install your kinetik since you have it as your main battery and purchase a cap to install next to your amp to help with the spikes.

 

its allready installed and it works great. no cap is nesscary in my set up and i think right now i'm running the highest RMS sub amp on this board.

 

Actually you are not...

My tibby = 1800RMS amp powering 2x subs, still @2500rpm can dim all my lights with the HO Alt and 12F cap when I pull 180+amps per hit...

laugh.gif

 

^^^^^
well hell yea but i'm still giving more power to my sub though nana.gif smile.gif 1600rms to 1 sub. and then i still have my other mids/highs amp going and i really dont have light dim at all. total RMS watts is easily in the 2000+ range

start a thread about your set up i would like to know more. post some pics