you guys are both right.

cabinet resonance is 10x different from a box rattling around on an absorbent material. i really don't know if resonance by itself(ideally suspended or something) does increase intensity, but i do know if that box resonance is transmitted to something that will absorb it that you have a bad setup.

this is why you have spikes on the bottom of boxes in good home theater setups.

and i was going to say something about that super thick box dtn. that's like 2x thicker than any fiberglass box i've ever seen. i can imagine it's 50lbs.

 

I wanted to also say that resonance of a sealed box in a car stereo setup is the least of your concerns. The only thing you need to worry about in car audio is airspace. the reason being is that every panel in the vehicle has it's own resonant frequency. Each side of a square box has it's own resonant frequency. If you take all the time to pick out the perfect material and make it the perfect size to make the perfect sound at a certain frequency, you've wasted your time because every other panel in the car is going to make it's own sound. The point is, don't worry about the box. make it heavy, move the car and let it make the noise.

cabinet resonance is important in home audio where you can have perfect conditions and wide open spaces with echos, but in a car, it's bam, right to your ear.

 

i have two KINETIC 2400 batteries. waaaaay better then optima's. im looking at replacing the yellow top in the tib with a kinetic next.

 

i tend to think DTN is correct about the weight. this thicker box sounds way better then my old one. but pandys theory of resonance i've seen in person. a friend of mine has some super high end home theatear stuff and its made out of nice ass dark cherry wood. i never thought about using other woods but that does make sense.

i think in the future would go with wood instead of fiberglass beacause i dont want to make a mess of things in the car and for the way my trunk will be set up wood is going to be the easiest way to go that will use the least amount of matterial. and cause me to loose drivability of my car for the least amount of time.

 

I didn't make a mess of things, and my drivability was lost for 1 hour. it just takes more time to do fiberglass.

 

Ahh I see, crossed wires old chap.. I didnt realise you were talking about bolting it down..

Anyway, that supports both our theories, because by bolting it down you are transferring the resonance into the chassis of the car (minus rattles) and thus feel it more..

First thing we used to advise in home theatre setups if the bass was overblown and boomy was to put the sub on a 1" thick paving slab to stop the resonance going into the floor smile.gif

 

so i was out driving around pounding the new sub and broke my damn fuse holder. so i rolled over to the shop and picked up a new and bigger fuse.

here is my old fuse, just typical stereo fuse you would get anywhere


and the comparison with the big guy



so now with this massive guy it wont blow unless there is an actual short in the line. and at the rate i'm going i'm gonna need to upgrade the wire here soon enough. on the up side though my guy at the shop hooked it up FAT AS HELL on the price. it was on the shelf for bout 35 bucks for holder and fuse and he hooked it up for 10 bucks. i mean thats bout like 66% off and you cant be too mad about that fing02.gif

 

Dude you should get a circuit breaker. Fuses there wont protect the amps, the fuses should be within 12 inches of the amps..

I got a Scorpion X breaker under my hood, best thing I ever got.. It's SOOO easy to just press reset to cut the power instead of messing around with one of those cumbersome holders.

 

^^^
The power line fuse should be within 12" of the battery, not the amp, and will protect it in the event of a surge.

 

yea thats what i was going to say caj he must be confused about something.