The fuse (or breaker) near the battery is to protect the battery, not the amps.

Whatever you have near the amps will protect them.

 

but...it cant get to the amps if the fuse blows.


ahhh....unless you have a cap, then yes, you should fuse by the amp.

 

so when i add the second battery i should buy another fuse and place it in between the second battery and the amps?

so it would be


stock battery -----fuse thats in pics^^------------------------------------new kinetic battery------2nd fuse-----dist.block----amps??

im sure this is the sort of things that everyone should know. i never really thought much into the fact of placement of fuses. im just used to regular systems that use just the standard battery-fuse-------------amp in trunk kind of setup. so this is the sort of conversation that i need to be having so i dont build a curcuit that will leave itself open to shorts.

 

TBH bro I wouldnt get another battery, I would simply get your alternator wound so that it can put out enough juice.

RD tibs have CRAP low amp electrical systems, as I found out the other day after having to replace my battery (deep cycle interstate) after only one year of use mad.gif

Put simply my alternator could not keep up so the battery was being charged/drained/charged/drained (repeat to fade) and thats why it only lasted a year.

I dont think you can buy a good audio alternator, you need to find someone who can wind it for you.

I can do some asking around, I know some guys in the know smile.gif

As for fuses/breakers it's honestly as I said. You have a fuse within 12" of the battery to protect the battery and then fuse within 12" of the amps to protect them.. Infact come to think of it most amps have onboard fuses, so you usually only really need to add a fuse to protect the battery.. Yoo'll note that in cheap amp kits (where the fuse is molded into the wire) that the fuse is always near the battery smile.gif

 

^^ no. You have a fuse within 12 inches of the battery to protect the wiring not the battery. You don't have a fuse within 12" of the amp. That's just plain rediculous. 1 fuse on a line is enough.

The amp will have a fuse on it in case you short the speaker wires and the auto-protect auto-circuit breaker does not work.

From an engineering standpoint, a battery is replacable. If you pinch the main power wire without a fuse and it shorts to ground, you stand the chance of burning up the wire from the battery all the way to the pinch. It will not affect the amplifier, just cut power to the amp. The real problem is the excess heat from the excess current turning your power wire into a heating element. That wire stands the chance of burning and causing a fire from the front of the car to the pinch point. Who cares about your battery when your car's on fire?

A fuse is a safety device, and you should use the smallest fuse you can possibly get away with. A short circuit to ground does not generate electricity. If you ground your power wire in the center, it will cause maximum current flow @ 12V to the short, and ground to be sent to the amplifier's power wire. This will basically shut off the amplifier and blow your fuse.

 

Ohio Generator
High Output Alt $544.00 Shipped
-97-99 Accent 1.5
-96-98 Elantra 1.8
-99-00 Elantra 2.0
-97-98 Tiberon 1.8
-97-01 Tiburon 2.0 Rated 160 Amps
Brand NEW Alt, that is rewound and comes with a 1yr Warranty. Have mine sitting beside me to be installed this week. ONLY exterior difference is the sticker on the side of the Alt. This is the best choice for a HO Alt, also included is a dyno sheet from their 40k dyno showing performance curve/output along with max/set points/output per RPM and turn on/activation speed etc...

Will post pics once my digi charges up.

 

but why would you spend 500+ on that when you can just add a drycell battery for 150 bucks and it will do almost the same thing. yea you can create more power and your lights wont dim, but you could just buy a drycell and it will give you the extra power needed and save about 400 dollars which you could use for something more useful

 

^^ Because an extra battery is just 2 batteries you have to replace because your electrical system still cannot handle the load. Anyone who actually knows what they're talking about will not put in a 2nd battery, they'll put in a quick reacting capacitor and a bigger alternator. Sure, it's common practice, but 2 batteries won't last as long as 1 battery and a capacitor.

 

thats it im puttting 4 batteries an 2 alternators in my car to power my uber 1 10 inch sub yea. thatll fix it. lol seriously both versions have thier own benefits an downsides. i used to run a big power system and i ran 2 batteries and an aftermarket alt, but i didnt get an uber expensive alternator i spent 200 on mine from a speed shop in ut, but the 2 batteries can be a good setup if you like to run the system with the car off. it tends to last a lil longer i found out. but the new alt will keep up with em while the car is running. so its really on how you wanna run the system

 

Correct DTN,
Already have the battery upgraded, and a 12F cap. Problem is the stock alt just does NOT put out enough power to keep everything stable, my alt is being overpulled by the system and is sending spikes to the battery over 14.3v. When ur sub pulls 180Amp on one hit, its time for an upgrade. Plus my H3/H7 HID's dont' stay stable at night if the system is just running normal @100-120a hits. In fact just with the H3/H7 and nothing else running, it overpulls the alts output and your pulling from your bat.

And seriously whats the point in running your system if your trying to showoff with the vehicle off? Save money run the damn car with 1batt when its time to showoff.