Thanks alot man! I'm probably asking alot of stupid questions now, but I'm kind of new to all this..





So it's two "ECU's"? One to plug into where the original ecu is, and from there to the MS?





Can the MS use this sensor, or is this just for me to watch when I set the engine constants?

 

To answer the first qeustion: The Ms uses the empty factory case and everything is soldered the back of the pins on the inside of the case. From the it runs out the empty factory case to the Ms Harness .



Second question answer: The Innovative Motorsports Wideband has an output wire that outputs the o2 voltage from 0-5v or linear 0-2v whatever you choose. That is then soldered to the o2 voltage input to the ms and you will select in the setting what wideband and what ouput you have and it will figure you exact AFR. It will also use this to auto tune the fuel maps to what ever input you have in your AFr maps. Its really cool once its all setup which I can actual setup for you in a base map and just email to you. If you have any more basic questions go here --->MS Manual for all setting READ and LEARN.



It will be alot to take in but you will start to put it all together. Like I said before warp21 on the boards will have the best spark and fuel maps for NA on the beta. Hit him up if you havent all ready he can help lead you on your path to Ms NA tuning 101.

 

Again, great answers, thanks!



I will definitively do some reading on that site!





Regards from Norway!

 

Here is the pic of were I mounted My Ms. This Is the first one I had. They know are in a smaller incloser and operate alittle smoother in the new KFX version.---->

 

I see



Ordered myself a wideband O2 kit today! If I just could get in touch with KFX, a MS would be on it's way to.. hope to get a reply from them soon!

Also, got a deal with a norwegian company to do my camshaft regrind, which will be one of a kind! They belive they can give me a ok gain if I accept

a bit of rough idle.

 

As far as a ruff idle you can change the idle control valve speed to compensate for that. Basically raise your idle in the setting and have it idle @ 1200 maybe or what ever you choose. Youll see its awesome to be able to actually control your car fully. As you can see from my pic, I come from a SAFC II. Which is still hooked up but only for display purposes like RPM , Throttle % and engine knock. Thats the only thing the ms I have doesnt hook up to = knock sensor, so the SAFC still comes in handy since it gives you a value for knock.

 

Okey. Do I really need knock sensor read out when I don't have a turbo setup?



However, talked a bit to Bill Hurlin today, and he said he was concerned that I would get issues with the MS stage 1+, since I got an european MAP ecu (was asking me if I had an car alarm, and so on).. do anyone know something about this?

 

i have a 2003 tiburon 2.0 , i put a ms3, so i have problems with (ckp), i donse´nt read up from 5500 rpm, can u help me about ?

 

@ Sonique I would highly advise on getting something to read your knock sensor output. If you can find a safcII it will or there are devices out there just for that specifically. The main things you need to control are as follows, fuel, spark, air. If any of these 3 are not where they need to be you will have issues, some maybe deal breakers for your motor. 1. A wideband O2 sensor will let you know if your too rich or lean- definite must to have, think of it as insurance on your motor. 2. boost controller or wastegate to control the max amount of air coming into the motor- again a must on a turboed engine. NA is exempt from this of course 3. knock sensor to tell you when you have any engine knock or detonation : caused by too much timing or too lean of a AFR. Again any knock or detonation equals life off your internals and possibly broken parts. 4. some way of reading the amount of air coming into the motor via MAP or MAF sensors:all cars have these already so this is not as hard to abtain plus the MS has a MAP on board anyhow 5. Engine control unit of some kind,MS or other :without the total control of fuel and spark you might as well go back to the factory ECU. This is the must haves to successfully control a boosted engine or highly upgraded NA motor.



@ ti2jdz I've had the same issue. It comes from having too much electrical interference in your signal wire. Try running a 10k ohm resistor inline with the wire input coming from the CKP sensor. Solder it in the line so that it is what connects the two ends. Also solder it as close to the MS as you can. This will help clean up the signal. Dont worry if you run it on the wrong signal wire from the CKP it wont hurt anything , but youll know if you did the car will run like absolute sh*t. Then you know it is the other wire. There are only two to choose from so youll figure it out. Hope this helps.

 

I have got myself a Megasquirt from DIYautotune.. The KFX one was no good since I got a different MAP based ECU than the US ones. I bought a MS 2 SMD PCB 3.57, and it looks like this support knock sensor. Also got myself a full LC-1 kit. So now I just need to find time to read the manual and do some wireing.