I've always seen a decent gain of at least a few HP (yes on the dyno) on the older Hyundais with a CAI or short ram vs. the stock air box and intake tract. I don't have enough personal experience with the newer Hyundais to comment on how much better the stock design is or isn't, but I doubt that it would be normal to lose power with a tube intake and quality cone filter.

 

Reading up on this a bit more has revealed other interesting information. I still don't believe that whacking on a piece of aluminium tube that happens to fit your TB will yield a significant improvement over a carefully designed factory intake. Have a quick scan through this article, for example:



http://planetsoarer.com/resonator/resonator.html





I'm still going to wave the OEM flag here. Honestly, unless you have made a SIGNIFICANT change to the way the engine is operating, the stock system will have been designed to better deal with more situations than some snake oil K&N rubbish.







I wish dyno testing was cheaper, because I have a few different Alpha intakes floating around my garage.



SOHC X3s come with resonators A and B only.

DOHC X3s come with resonators A and B only, however resonator A has a chunk removed to fit around the power steering pump.

DOHC LCs come with resonators C and D only.







I wish I could dyno test my car with these different resonator combinations and see what the result is. Imagine out performing $100 intakes with some re-worked factory intakes! All of the performance with none of the engine bay rice.



As for oiled filters... *sigh*... look. You guys who keep your cars for hundreds of thousands of miles are the exception to the rule. In your case, yes, the oiled filter makes financial sense. However, most people here (especially those fitting K&N filters) won't keep their cars for long enough for it to matter. Not to mention the potential damage that snake filter oil can do to your MAF.

 

Did you just say that five feet of kinked square stuff with hard angles all over the place flows better than a smooth, shorter, round tube?

 

Helmholtz. Do research.

 

THAT is sig worthy. TK

 

My ass and the entire stock intake tract are equally both hemholz resonators. There ARE resonators on the intake, yes. Do not try to tell me that the whole thing is one, or that it flows better than a good aftermarket replacement.



NVH is a specification that matters to people who DON'T install CAIs. Just saying.

 

Guess I'll be putting a manometer on my stock "crappy flow" intake, and see how much of a pressure restriction it is...



And your ass is not a helmholtz resonator, it has more in common with a reed system, like on a saxophone.

 

All you have to do is crawl under any Hyundai at least up through the GK Tiburon and take a peek at the exhaust to see exactly how much effort was put into maximizing airflow into and out of the engine by Hyundai. While it is possible to make a good flowing intake with corrugated plastic pipe and properly placed resonators I am very sure that very little care was taken in this regard on the cars in question.



100hp and 109lb/ft at the wheels on a Mustang Dyno out of my 1.6l Accent rated at 104hp and 106lb/ft at the flywheel is what I/H/E netted me. Same day and same dyno showed 76hp on a stock 1.5l Accent. Unfortunately there was no stock 1.6l Accent around that day to compare to. Either way, significant gains.

 

Gain from what? You need baseline numbers, from the same car, to say there were gains.



I know exhaust wise the 00/01 tibs suck. That isn't the point being discussed though, the effect of a cone filter is.

I still say that on MAF based cars, the change in intake flow will alter the readings enough to be visible, and can account for the irregularities and effects seen.

On speed density cars, I don't know what would cause it to rise, to be honest.

 

Peak power is only one crumb of the cookie though. Mid and low RPM power, as well as throttle response and flow stability through the MAF (where applicable) and into the cylinders is equally as important.



The whole intake doesn't need to be a resonator, but one or more resonators fitted to the intake can help quell reversion or vibration at differing engine speeds. This actually makes power and kills intake noise in one fell swoop.



I was thinking of doing the same thing this weekend. Maybe removing one res or making it smaller, will push peak torque up a little in the rev range. For practically $0 as well.



*EDIT* On speed density, there is probably a little fudge built in to the system. Maybe minute changes in intake air temp, or just the increased manifold pressure available, would cause power to change. Our cars do run pretty obscenely rich at high revs/high load.