Cone filter not worth a pennie
#1
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Vehicle: 2008 hyundai accent
Cone filter not worth a pennie
I have a 2008 hyundai accent gs. I took my car to the dyno and it came out at a avg 108 hp & 102 tq.
I then took off the stock intake and replaced it with $76.99 (before tax) cone filter which said (up to 14hp gain)
After so i threw the car on the dyno and got avg 105 hp & 98 tq.
I will say the cone filter gave a little bit more on the low end, but in the end the stock air set up gave more hp.
stock 108hp 102tq
cone 105hp 98tq
I actually lost power. On this deal.
I then took off the stock intake and replaced it with $76.99 (before tax) cone filter which said (up to 14hp gain)
After so i threw the car on the dyno and got avg 105 hp & 98 tq.
I will say the cone filter gave a little bit more on the low end, but in the end the stock air set up gave more hp.
stock 108hp 102tq
cone 105hp 98tq
I actually lost power. On this deal.
#2
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What kind of filter is it?
Did you just put the filter in place of the airbox, on the stock tubing?
Do you have any type of a heat shield around the filter?
Chances are you're sucking in hot engine air with just the open filter. The stock airbox is protected some from hot air, so thats most likely the reason for the hp difference. You could also be using a junk filter that doesnt flow as much air as whats in the airbox. The only 2 filters I would ever use are either K&N or AEM.
Did you just put the filter in place of the airbox, on the stock tubing?
Do you have any type of a heat shield around the filter?
Chances are you're sucking in hot engine air with just the open filter. The stock airbox is protected some from hot air, so thats most likely the reason for the hp difference. You could also be using a junk filter that doesnt flow as much air as whats in the airbox. The only 2 filters I would ever use are either K&N or AEM.
#3
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Vehicle: 2008 hyundai accent
it was a k & n air filter with the heat shield, i was talking to the dyno guy and he said it is very common now with newer cars that the stock air filter is better then a cone filter, but once you change anything in the engine then the stock air box with be your "bottle neck" and won't allow enough air to pass.
So what i am guessing is if everything is stock your better off with the stock box (unless you want the sound), but if you change a few parts or reprogram the computer then go with a cone filter because the engine won't be able to suck enough air fast enough through the stock box. which it kinda makes sense because the stock box is acting like a cold air intake. i guess.
kind of interesting now that i think about.
So what i am guessing is if everything is stock your better off with the stock box (unless you want the sound), but if you change a few parts or reprogram the computer then go with a cone filter because the engine won't be able to suck enough air fast enough through the stock box. which it kinda makes sense because the stock box is acting like a cold air intake. i guess.
kind of interesting now that i think about.
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Vehicle: 1999 Elantra GLS Sportswagon
Well in my case i gained 30 hp from removing the stock box to putting in a sri with pod filter [3A racing]but the supercharger needs air but they get heatsoaked pretty quickly especially in summer ,you do notice the loss in power when the engine is hot.
So basically normally aspirated cars air pods don't help
Turbo charged cars require bigger exhaust
Superchargers require more air
Hope you enjoy watching our aussie legends at work
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAIxe...layer_embedded
So basically normally aspirated cars air pods don't help
Turbo charged cars require bigger exhaust
Superchargers require more air
Hope you enjoy watching our aussie legends at work
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAIxe...layer_embedded
#5
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LOL! I like the part when he says taking a poo before driving would give you more HP gain due to weight reduction than using the expensive pod filter over the cheap-o one. LOL!!
#6
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Vehicle: 2008 hyundai accent
that is what the guy was talking about i think. Mighty car mods looks cool, how many esp. they have out?
08 accent doesn't have a super charger tho. 1.6 4cyl na manual
08 accent doesn't have a super charger tho. 1.6 4cyl na manual
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#8
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I get angry when I see pod filters. I mean:
-The stock intake tract has been engineered to provide optimal flow and quick warm up on cold days
-It has also been engineered to avoid water induction and harsh noise
-Some pods have a smaller filter area than the stock airbox anyway
Not to mention the fact that they invariably don't blend with the engine bay, are usually poked in the stupidest places (behind headlights, on the end of stock piping etc) and nobody can actually prove they work. Yet people still willingly pay over $100 a pop for name brand filters. Don't even get me started on K&N panel filters. Nobody I know, who bought a K&N, profited off the 'investment'.
I would rather have a brand new OEM filter for every day of the week.
-The stock intake tract has been engineered to provide optimal flow and quick warm up on cold days
-It has also been engineered to avoid water induction and harsh noise
-Some pods have a smaller filter area than the stock airbox anyway
Not to mention the fact that they invariably don't blend with the engine bay, are usually poked in the stupidest places (behind headlights, on the end of stock piping etc) and nobody can actually prove they work. Yet people still willingly pay over $100 a pop for name brand filters. Don't even get me started on K&N panel filters. Nobody I know, who bought a K&N, profited off the 'investment'.
I would rather have a brand new OEM filter for every day of the week.
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I get angry when I see pod filters. I mean:
-The stock intake tract has been engineered to provide optimal flow and quick warm up on cold days
-It has also been engineered to avoid water induction and harsh noise
-Some pods have a smaller filter area than the stock airbox anyway
Not to mention the fact that they invariably don't blend with the engine bay, are usually poked in the stupidest places (behind headlights, on the end of stock piping etc) and nobody can actually prove they work. Yet people still willingly pay over $100 a pop for name brand filters. Don't even get me started on K&N panel filters. Nobody I know, who bought a K&N, profited off the 'investment'.
I would rather have a brand new OEM filter for every day of the week.
-The stock intake tract has been engineered to provide optimal flow and quick warm up on cold days
-It has also been engineered to avoid water induction and harsh noise
-Some pods have a smaller filter area than the stock airbox anyway
Not to mention the fact that they invariably don't blend with the engine bay, are usually poked in the stupidest places (behind headlights, on the end of stock piping etc) and nobody can actually prove they work. Yet people still willingly pay over $100 a pop for name brand filters. Don't even get me started on K&N panel filters. Nobody I know, who bought a K&N, profited off the 'investment'.
I would rather have a brand new OEM filter for every day of the week.
But you have to spend what $10 every 25k miles on a new filter? If you buy a AEM dryflow, you can clean it as often as you like and like he said, it takes up less room and can make moding a bit easier, it it does give it a throatier sound and it is only $50.
But filter area isn't everything, the fact that there is no power change shows that the pod is even too large, when you start seeing a power loss, that is why you have found the optimal sizing. And if it is too large, you are just introducint more unnecasarry particles to damage your engine. Filters are rates at a percentage efficiency. So if it filters out 99.9% of the particles (and no fitler is that good), so lets say you have 100 sq mm area, so that means .1mm of that area is letting through a particle. But if you have 500 sq mm, then you are letting in .5mm in. If you eninge at maximum brething can only let in 100 sq mm of air, then anything larger is pointless and just allowing in more particles. I think the stock ones are too large, because they clog faily easily and you need all of that extra to compensate so that your 400 sq mm cloged becomes 100 sq mm left to filter so they last longer. OEM paper is notoriuos for clogging up very easily and quickly.
Here is also a very interesting independant study/article on AEM http://www.sporttruck.com/techarticl...ter/index.html It is amazing how much abuse it can take and still keep on ticking almost new, and if you treat it with any common sense, it will last you 100k+ miles.
Not saying everyone must buy a pod/cone, but just want to throw out there why it isn't a horrible waste of money as that video shows. Though I am not a fan of any other brand or oil type fitlers. Though supposedly AEM merged with K&N making a oiless, it might be good. I would get angry if they bought it out of false hype, but if they did their research and have good reasons for it, why hate?
#10
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Yep, I have to spend $10 every 25k miles. To date, I haven't owned a car for 25k miles, and I'd have to own the car for 125k miles until I break even on the 'investment' of a cleanable air filter. Not to mention the cost of the oil, that sh*t is expensive yo.
That's an interesting point about filter area, I'll keep that in mind. As it is, the stock filter size will have been optimized for the engine as it is, so unless there is going to be a DRASTIC change in the engine's breathing characteristics, why change? As for stock filters clogging up, a working filter is one that gets clogged. I'd be worried if my filter wasn't getting clogged?
I'd like to have some more induction noise, but I think I can achieve that by blocking off various intake resonators without compromising the engine's power output, my filtration ability, or my wallet.
That's an interesting point about filter area, I'll keep that in mind. As it is, the stock filter size will have been optimized for the engine as it is, so unless there is going to be a DRASTIC change in the engine's breathing characteristics, why change? As for stock filters clogging up, a working filter is one that gets clogged. I'd be worried if my filter wasn't getting clogged?
I'd like to have some more induction noise, but I think I can achieve that by blocking off various intake resonators without compromising the engine's power output, my filtration ability, or my wallet.