Engine, Intake, Exhaust Modifications to your Normally Aspirated Hyundai engine. Cold Air Intakes, Spark Plugs/wires, Cat back Exhaust...etc.

P1613 Tcm Mil

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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 08:27 AM
  #21  
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I think you have a vaccum hose or something from your relocated cannister causing the problem, a pinch, kink, who knows. After looking at that idle bypass setup, I now see that ANYTHING is possible.

Seriously man, I'd get rid of that shit ASAP. Look at my little writeup I did on my new intake elbow, using the stock hoses and a bit of extra hose dude, you can make it perfect for cheap.
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 08:34 AM
  #22  
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To be honest, you might be better off just hooking up the evap canister as it was before and just cutting the AEM to avoid it or something. That Rev-A thing just seems to cause problems.

Or buy a 2001. lmao.gif
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 02:37 PM
  #23  
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Ya know, that's not a bad idea.

Ditch the AEM for a week, hook the evap up like STOCK, and see if some problems go away. Just run the filter on the MAF for a day to see what happens..

Seriously, I'd try that. Hook the evap up like your car is stock again, see what happens.
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 03:06 PM
  #24  
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what troubles me is i don't know which one it is!! it could be one or the other now. this whole time i might have done the evap correctly and have had problems with the cat!! after i installed the evap the right way the gears never changed bad...

i will get that elbow done as soon as i get my car back.
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 03:15 PM
  #25  
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So do one at a time.

HOnestly, with as many miles as you have on your car, it's probably time for a new cat too.

Or did you put a new cat in there?
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 03:17 PM
  #26  
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If I remember correctly you always do the first code first. Sometimes that will fix the rest, when it was read which one was first?
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 03:26 PM
  #27  
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will do. the first one was the ECM P1613. It could very well explain poltergeist effect my safety belt, airbag light, door lights and power locks going bad. i know for a fact they work because sometimes they would and wouldn't... the dealership tells me to get new actuators.

i'll first get the computer replaced. my guy can find me one from a salvage. maybe even a cheap one from his own yard. best case scenario would be the computer has gone bad. worst case scenario is the evap system and running rich somehow ties into it and slowly eats away the whole thing.

i really thank you for your support. it makes me feel almost invincible and i can start fresh. it won't bring back my money, but i love this damn car too much.
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Old Oct 4, 2006 | 10:22 AM
  #28  
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let us know how it turns out. smile.gif
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Old Oct 4, 2006 | 10:27 AM
  #29  
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I seriously cannot believe that you are going to replace the ECU before you try to hook up the evap the RIGHT way..
that just seems VERY ass backwards to me.
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Old Oct 4, 2006 | 03:57 PM
  #30  
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ok finally have a little update. the dealership was mostly wrong. the code that they couldn't reset was infact a computer malfunction so the check engine light did go away. lesson learned the problem that i'm having does still exist. the gear will switch down, check engine light will light up briefly and it will go away, then have trouble going up hills as if the fuel pressure is wong. when i put it in park, the pressure goes back up as if the pressure is correcting itself. the car will stall when going uphill.

so i'm thinking it's a different problem that the check engine light isn't telling me, like the fuel pressure regultor, maybe the injectors, oxygen sensor, hopefully the coilpack. right now i have left it with my mechanic.

i don't think it has anything to do with the evap cannister but i will not rule that out as well. give me about another week and i will have a complete update. then i will begin on getting the evap system fullproof so that i know for a proven fact there are no leaks.
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