Thank you! This has been something I have been preaching since my VDUB days with 130hp engines in cars that were designed for 50hp. I learned a LOT about snap throttle oversteer, brake fade, and even axle hopping in my first vdub (incidently, the first car I was able to drive too!)


As for quad throttle bodies (or carbs) on a can with lumpy cams, high compression pistons, and headers.. I wish I had more than a collection of parts for my fiat. I am waiting on a NEW head as the other disappeared in shipping. A 16valve head off of the fiat Tipo. This will bolt to my 2 litre engine, along with DCOE throttle bodies, a reworked intake cam in the exhaust side, and headers should net me upwards of 200 to 240hp at about 8 grand on the tach... if I had it together, I would show you pics.

However, REDZ did say the right thing in the wrong way earlier. It is not that the Beta does not respond well to NA tuning, it is just MORE expensive to get the same or less results than a turbo. I happen to agree that going turbo (or even Supercharged) is the best way to get the most from your money.

 

no offence dude...but you should learn how to drive/look after your car before you mod another engine,

no excuse for blowing your engine... other than lack of care/maintaince. :roll:

you seem to come across like a rich kid with too much money..

just my 0.2

again sorry if i offend. laugh.gif

 

One TB for each cylinder. MAD power but VERY hard to tune and keep tuned.

Mad Machine, you are close man, but no, the most you'll see NA from a 2.0 Beta is 175 to around 200 HP. Very expensive, very hard to do.

From a simple turbo kit, even a Alpine, you can easily break 200 HP.

 

that is why I said VERY expensive for less results. Chances are you will also get a car that is NOT fun to drive in traffic. Prone to stalling, overheating, and just generally a pig a low engine speeds. The ONLY reason Honda and BMW can get away with the limits they are pushing.. the variable valve timing they use. In Vtec, the lumpy cams are not used at low speeds or at idle.. but once you get up into the higher regions of the tach, they engage.. This is the real benefit to Vtec. It allows you to have a SUPER lumpy cam, but still be a civilised car around town.

 

So there it is, we need to create a Hyunduh. lol.gif 8)

 

Different people, different goals, different ways to get to it.

 

nah.. the system you want is not Vtec, but the new one BMW uses. I forget exactly how it works, but the valve timing and opening are infinitly variable (to the limits of their movements at least) to the point where the cars that use it do NOT need a throttle body. The valves can be controlled to the point where they can act as the throttle. Not only is it more efficent, but it is a LOT smoother than Vtec.. there is no sudden ramp up in power, just a smooth rush of power all the way to redline.

 

As 90% of the people above me said, if you would have done the turbo setup correctly the first time you wouldn't have nuked your engine. Just out of curiousity what PSI were you running with the turbo setup and what were you using for fuel/timing management? And the biggest thing of all did you tune it or did YOU get someone who knew what they were doing to do it (on a DYNO preferably).

 

that is a good question you are bringing up Ultra... Todays Turbo kits are pretty foolproof unless you start playing... all the more reason to add at least an air/fuel ratio gage on a WIDEBAND sensor.

 

silvertibbs said that the 4-2-1 header gives you power throght out the whole band I have an Auto and it stays in the high rpms if you want it to, just press the gas all the way down and it won't shift to 6200 or so rpms.