Thanks. Hopefully it'll be mid next month. I'll get my stuff coated locally here around the 1st, then install them within the next 2 weeks. Only delay would be on the headers, as I want to do the exhaust at the same time (Midas). Guess I should be hunting for a OBDII Cat and a muffler eh? LOL

Anyways, the Airram will go right on, with my 65MM BBTB sitting here.

 

wow thanks guys. yeah i want to smoothen up the engine bay a lot and figured to just use some cool looking hoses just to make it a little bit more modern. i bought a heating hose from autozone and it seems to be the same exact tube as the stock one. she gave me 4feet for the price of 3 heheh!

yeah but thanks a lot! i would do it myself but i have no time! yeah lousy excuse i know. it would only take 2 hours right? hehe. with me though i always have somekind of problem. i'm aware that it's just a lego bolt on piece, but should something go wrong they'll get the job done quick. call me lazy but i wouldn't be able to get the bottom screws off and i want the guys up there to torque it right.

my best best friend's uncle just opened up a shop right down the street. and they're professional ASE certified mechanics who worked for Lexus for 11 years. I think the guy next to them has a dyno, i saw a bunch of hooked up cars in front of there so I might be able to get a free dyno for us. anyways he's giving me a good price and since they're practically family i trust them.

guess i'll buy some vynil colored hoses soon just to throw in there for looks. and i have printed out the DIY too. really appreciate it. if you guys know me i'll give lots of pics and a good down to earth review of how i truly feel about any gains.

 

dude, once you start taking stuff apart for yourself is when you realize what mechanics really do is nothing special. the only time i've ever taken my car to a mecanic was to do a wheel bearing (because it needed to be pressed in) and ya know what, the guy put the bearing in the WRONG WHEEL and said i never told him. turns out the problem was a CV joint anyway, and that's something which is hard to do with the shitty tools i have so i just let them take care of it.
even though they're mechanics, keep in mind that they're only doing the same stuff you are...and usually they dont care as much because its not their car. HKC if you dont do this yourself i guarantee you're gonna have an issue. they will probably first try to say its not made for the car because of the tight fit around the wire loom, the different hoses, the different throttle/cruise cables, and the extra nipple.
DO IT YOURSELF!
how else are you gonna learn...

dude before i got a car i didnt even know how to use a ratchet...no joke.

 

Ok, so in case you guys were wondering, we spent all day at the shop working on this. Got everything apart and notice:

1. the injectors aren't long enough to connect to all four ports. So we had to run the harness in between the manifold.

2. The Idle Valve Control needs to come down. It doesn't fit in the back of the Airram, in between the that and firewall. We extend the hoses. So it's basically hanging from the bottom of the manifold. Brackets for it are useless really.

3. Cruise Control cable is too short. Where can I order a new CC unit that will fit with the Airram?

Studs are long enough for spacers. The spacers do some heat prevention which is cool. The manifold is much cooler, just warm. All spacers fit with original assembly.

WOW, even with the automatic, it's a huge difference! Sure it would be much more with 5-speed, but hot damn the car actually pulls now. And it hauls ricers. Not only that folks, the IM itself produces a niiiiice sports car sound when at full throttle. Much like a V6 does at high revs.

I say this is the best thing next to the CAI you can do to your car. It definitely added quite some horsepower. Then when you look at the old manifold it's no wonder why you lose so much power, thing looks like bread inside!

 

Dude, did you read any of the stuff that I and others have written in past threads??????????????????
AT ALL?? I even gave you the 3 most helpful links like 5 posts above...cmon HKC.
drillsergeant.gif

regarding rside bbtb and airram - http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?s...ic=14138&st=20
install tips and problems you WILL have - http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?s...5389&hl=AIRRAM
all hose diameters, lengths, extra tips- http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...=airram+install




Anyway this will all get restated for like the 3rd time now..

1. You need TO CUT the OEM wire loom and go AROUND the manifold.

2. Of course it's not going to bolt to the airram. You have 2 options, extend the hose about 4" UP and make it sit in the OEM location ABOVE the airram, or just leave the shortie OEM hose on there and attach that to the airram, then extend the hose that comes from your elbow. If you go with #1, running a larger hose UP you need to make sure to get some tough vinyl/fiber reinforced hose that isn't going to kink. If you go with #2, leaving the short OEM hose on and extending the hose from the elbow, you may need to zip tie it down at an angle so it doesn't hit your throttle cable/pulley on your bbtb. Zip tying it down at an angle is OK, it's not anywhere near enough to kink it, and there's plenty of spots you can zip tie it, it doesn't have to be moved, just angled downward differently.

3. You have to make your own bracket for the pump to sit, and you have to make your own bracket for the cruise/throttle cables to be held. What you do is get 2 nuts and bolts, and make a bracket about 1-3" long out of sheet metal and drill 4 holes in it. The first 2 holes on your custom brace should be bolted in how the cruise vacuum pump would be if it was stock, then the next 2 holes should attach to cruise vacuum pump and give you an extra few inches for the cruise cable. If you would have searched even more you would have found a way that some people mount it to the front strut location and tilt the pump, but I like my way better because if you look at the pump it has directions which want "THIS END UP" so I decided to just extend it using the OEM location, it looks clean too.
For the second bracket to make your cruise work you're going to have to get a 90 degree metal brace and drill 4 holes in it. 2 should attach to the airram with those allan screws, and 2 should be oval holes that extend through the edge so you can slide your cruise/throttle cables in. Use the brace you got with the airram as a guide.

why didn't you read all the info in the links we gave you BEFORE doing your install man?


--hmm, the outlaw spacer DIY says the OEM studs are NOT long enough, yet everyone I talk to says they are...huh, weird.

 

i had no issues installing the spacers and intake mani on the stock studs.

 

Ehh, I don't belive I put anywhere in that DIY that the stock studs couldn't be used. I was the one that pushed Outlaw to let us NOT have to buy the studs because the stock ones DID fit.

 

So HKC even with your I/H/E already previously installed, installing the BBTB and the airram really made it that much faster on an auto Tib? I find it hard to believe, but I'd like to believe it smile.gif

 

of course it makes a difference, it's the same ENGINE as a 5spd, it's just that the auto tranny slows everything down.

HKC, why didn't you ever do that 5spd swap you had talked about months before?