How Do You Put On A Radiator Support?
06-24-2008, 07:30 AM
#71
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QUOTE (DTN @ Jun 11 2008, 07:59 AM)
The part where the horn mounts is good, but the top is bad.
here's a link to the one I purchased yesterday
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=200227191974
here's a link to the one I purchased yesterday
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=200227191974
I got one from the same place and they had it shipped to me pretty quick. They even tossed a hood latch that I bought in the same box so I only paid one shipping charge.
You have an RD1 tho so I think you need this one - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HYUNDAI-TIB...emZ190179923533
06-24-2008, 08:29 AM
#72
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Huh...
I guess getting a radiator support off a junk yard car that was rear-ended isn't a good idea?
If its that easy to do the radiator support swap, I might be looking at doing the RD1 to RD2 front swap more seriously...
I guess getting a radiator support off a junk yard car that was rear-ended isn't a good idea?
If its that easy to do the radiator support swap, I might be looking at doing the RD1 to RD2 front swap more seriously...
06-24-2008, 08:47 AM
#73
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you could use one from a junkyard but I wouldn't recommend it, mine was pretty much looking like the mouth of jaws by the time I got it off the car
if you do get one from the junkyard I would cut off more then you need like cut the rails and take part of them so that way you can remove the rails from the cut piece rather then vice versa because when you pull this thing off the car you usually end up bending it
if you are just looking to swap then the junker piece would be fine if you do it the way I did once. You won't need the whole piece though. Just the upper cross member, the vertical t support the the latch is on and the headlight housings. Here is a pic of what I did to make the swap from RD1 front end to RD2 front end
notice the black piece is the new installed piece. I just welded it at the bottom rail and by the fenders along the cross member. Just my welds were done by my brother who sucked at welding then so they were nasty looking.
if you do get one from the junkyard I would cut off more then you need like cut the rails and take part of them so that way you can remove the rails from the cut piece rather then vice versa because when you pull this thing off the car you usually end up bending it
if you are just looking to swap then the junker piece would be fine if you do it the way I did once. You won't need the whole piece though. Just the upper cross member, the vertical t support the the latch is on and the headlight housings. Here is a pic of what I did to make the swap from RD1 front end to RD2 front end
notice the black piece is the new installed piece. I just welded it at the bottom rail and by the fenders along the cross member. Just my welds were done by my brother who sucked at welding then so they were nasty looking.
06-24-2008, 08:58 AM
#74
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Yeah I figured you'd cut off more than you need so you could take it home and clean it up nicely.
I don't believe I could just get the top part, since the right-hand side is a bit crunched where the headlight would go.
I don't believe I could just get the top part, since the right-hand side is a bit crunched where the headlight would go.
06-27-2008, 06:59 AM
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well I got mine torn apart and I have decided to just get a body shop to do mine so hopefully they will just charge me labor cause I have stripped everything off from around it and already have the new one so I will be leaving this to the pros I got a few of the spot welds drilled out and thiught to myself, "Ta hell with this I am taken it to the shop." Everything else I can do my self but the radiator support is going to be a big pain in the ass
06-27-2008, 07:33 AM
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^^^^your so wrong man. If you took this off you have already done the hard part. Putting it back together is easy, you don't have to weld it either.
Trust me if you got this off you can get it on. If you have any questions I just did it myself last sunday and monday so I can give you all the info you need. A shop is gonna charge you at least 150 to weld on the new piece but you could rivet one on yourself in 1 or 2 hours and only $20 worth of tools.
nvm, I just reread what you wrote and notice I misunderstood it first time around. You only have the headlights and stuff stripped. I thought at first you were saying you had all the welds cut and stripped the metal for the new core support. If you haven't ripped yours off then you haven't done the hardest part. Even so the hardest part, cutting the welds and ripping off the old core support is still pretty easy with a second person. Its your money and time so decide whats more valuable to you I guess but it only took me and my brother about an hour or so to rip off the core support. All I needed was the spot weld cutter and I drilled out the welds as my brother used a crowbar and rubber hammer to pry the metals apart.
Trust me if you got this off you can get it on. If you have any questions I just did it myself last sunday and monday so I can give you all the info you need. A shop is gonna charge you at least 150 to weld on the new piece but you could rivet one on yourself in 1 or 2 hours and only $20 worth of tools.
nvm, I just reread what you wrote and notice I misunderstood it first time around. You only have the headlights and stuff stripped. I thought at first you were saying you had all the welds cut and stripped the metal for the new core support. If you haven't ripped yours off then you haven't done the hardest part. Even so the hardest part, cutting the welds and ripping off the old core support is still pretty easy with a second person. Its your money and time so decide whats more valuable to you I guess but it only took me and my brother about an hour or so to rip off the core support. All I needed was the spot weld cutter and I drilled out the welds as my brother used a crowbar and rubber hammer to pry the metals apart.
11-26-2008, 03:43 PM
#78
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just to update this post a bit...
It's been almost 6 months now and the DIY non-weld method suggested by MOLOTOVMAN earlier in this post is holding up great. http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...st&p=364945
I modified his method
1. remove the old radiator support
2. place the new radiator support on the car and bolt it up
3. drill holes every inch or so for 1/4" short rivits, and every 1/2 inch at the top staggered, making sure to hit all the origonal weld areas and more.
4. unbolt it
5. apply 2 hour set time epoxy along all mating surfaces
6. then pop-rivit it in place with steel rivits.
It took alot of strength and I used 20 minute epoxy... it would have been nice to have a break in the middle or a pneumatic riviter. Coal_Forge showed up right in time for the riviting. Needless to say Coal_Forge and I were worn out by the end of applying 60 or so rivits.
They make a spot weld remover tool to go on the end of your power drill. I did not know about this tool and I ended up using a pneumatic cutoff wheel instead. It was a PITA and could have been much easier with a spot weld remover.
Here's a couple of pictures.
Before
Old radiator mount removed, new one set on bumper, holes drilled, but not rivited yet.
Job complete
I deem this method a great way to DIY this. It's holding up great. The rivits can be applied closer and there's more surface contact with the epoxy. So most likely, this method is sturdier then the stock welds. Also, if you're working on insurance money, this will save you 8 hours of labor from a shop and you can do TONS of upgrades with the money instead. This replacement cost $240 total instead of $1,000 total. Using this method, I went from a pretty stock body to having a Scoote hood, hood pins, hood lifters, OBX radiator hoses, new bumper, GT Tech lip, Koyo Radiator and Turby side skirts, and a better strut tower bar for the exact same ammount of cash that the body shop would return my car to stock.
It's been almost 6 months now and the DIY non-weld method suggested by MOLOTOVMAN earlier in this post is holding up great. http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...st&p=364945
I modified his method
1. remove the old radiator support
2. place the new radiator support on the car and bolt it up
3. drill holes every inch or so for 1/4" short rivits, and every 1/2 inch at the top staggered, making sure to hit all the origonal weld areas and more.
4. unbolt it
5. apply 2 hour set time epoxy along all mating surfaces
6. then pop-rivit it in place with steel rivits.
It took alot of strength and I used 20 minute epoxy... it would have been nice to have a break in the middle or a pneumatic riviter. Coal_Forge showed up right in time for the riviting. Needless to say Coal_Forge and I were worn out by the end of applying 60 or so rivits.
They make a spot weld remover tool to go on the end of your power drill. I did not know about this tool and I ended up using a pneumatic cutoff wheel instead. It was a PITA and could have been much easier with a spot weld remover.
Here's a couple of pictures.
Before
Old radiator mount removed, new one set on bumper, holes drilled, but not rivited yet.
Job complete
I deem this method a great way to DIY this. It's holding up great. The rivits can be applied closer and there's more surface contact with the epoxy. So most likely, this method is sturdier then the stock welds. Also, if you're working on insurance money, this will save you 8 hours of labor from a shop and you can do TONS of upgrades with the money instead. This replacement cost $240 total instead of $1,000 total. Using this method, I went from a pretty stock body to having a Scoote hood, hood pins, hood lifters, OBX radiator hoses, new bumper, GT Tech lip, Koyo Radiator and Turby side skirts, and a better strut tower bar for the exact same ammount of cash that the body shop would return my car to stock.