How Do You Put On A Radiator Support?
06-12-2008, 10:43 AM
#51
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the headlights also bolt onto this and the hood latch mechanism and some other stuff, but not too heavy for 20-30 pop rivets.
you should do a mini DIY for this and let people know how good it works, so people don't spend the $$$$ having a shop do this in the future.
would make front end damaged tibs MUCH easier and cheaper to repair.
you should do a mini DIY for this and let people know how good it works, so people don't spend the $$$$ having a shop do this in the future.
would make front end damaged tibs MUCH easier and cheaper to repair.
06-12-2008, 11:24 AM
#53
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
Actually, the car has a unibody, so this is actually part of the frame. When you take the old one off, you'll see the front end kinda turns to mush. I would NOT trust anything other than the best to get it done right.
You get stuff off by even 1/8 of an inch, your corners won't line up right, your fenders won't fit properly, your hood won't fit properly, your bumper won't fit properly, your bumper/headlights won't line up right.
It's a nightmare waiting to happen.
You get stuff off by even 1/8 of an inch, your corners won't line up right, your fenders won't fit properly, your hood won't fit properly, your bumper won't fit properly, your bumper/headlights won't line up right.
It's a nightmare waiting to happen.
06-12-2008, 12:32 PM
#54
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DTN why dont you just go ask a couple of shops or call then and ask if the rivits would be fine or what they would reccomend would solve everything and wouldnt take that long and they would give you a straight answer... plus isnt your insurence paying for the damaged to be fix why go cheap just have the shop do it if u dont have to pay out.
06-12-2008, 01:06 PM
#55
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lol. of course the shop will say get it welded, cuz they want you to get it done by them....
and for the insurance money.. less money he spends on labor and a shop doing stuff, more extra parts he can buy..
and for the insurance money.. less money he spends on labor and a shop doing stuff, more extra parts he can buy..
06-12-2008, 01:52 PM
#57
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QUOTE (RED ZMAN @ Jun 12 2008, 01:24 PM)
Actually, the car has a unibody, so this is actually part of the frame. When you take the old one off, you'll see the front end kinda turns to mush. I would NOT trust anything other than the best to get it done right.
You get stuff off by even 1/8 of an inch, your corners won't line up right, your fenders won't fit properly, your hood won't fit properly, your bumper won't fit properly, your bumper/headlights won't line up right.
It's a nightmare waiting to happen.
You get stuff off by even 1/8 of an inch, your corners won't line up right, your fenders won't fit properly, your hood won't fit properly, your bumper won't fit properly, your bumper/headlights won't line up right.
It's a nightmare waiting to happen.
I thought the unibody is the rear fender, a-pillar, and roof of the car. The rest of it is single panels.
This part stands on top of the frame between the bumper. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x121/im...ar/DSCN1776.jpg Looking at this, I'm absoloutely sure that some JB weld and rivits will be stronger then 30 spot welds. Also, it should line itself up assuming that my frame is still good.
06-12-2008, 02:11 PM
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They used epoxy on the m111 chassis because it was stonger than welding the overlapping metal.
Rivits plus epoxy=stronger than just welding edges.
Robotic spot welding is cheaper since you only need one robot to complete the task of bonding the chassis. Also less costly since the copper welding terminals would last longer than the stuff used to punch or drill holes for rivits... + no extra material is introduced in spot welding.
Rivits plus epoxy=stronger than just welding edges.
Robotic spot welding is cheaper since you only need one robot to complete the task of bonding the chassis. Also less costly since the copper welding terminals would last longer than the stuff used to punch or drill holes for rivits... + no extra material is introduced in spot welding.
06-12-2008, 02:41 PM
#59
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^^ I've always heard of using JB Weld for metal, should I look at metal /non-porous epoxy?
Just found out today that the shop I have it at currently (and all other body shops in my town) will NOT do a partial repair. I'd have to tow the car to the autocraft shop, remove everything, drag the car to a custom shop have them weld, then drag it back to the autocraft shop. They want to maximize their income by using junkyard parts on my car and pocketing the rest. I'm on my own for this one. Pop rivits and JB weld it is. It dosn't sound like a bad idea. I mean the sheer adheasion of the JB weld would hold it. Pop rivits will do even better.
So here's my plan, remove the old one, shave down to the metal, bolt on the new one and make sure everything lines up, then drill about 40 holes straight through. Layer the JB weld up behind it, then pop rivit it in while the JB is still wet. After that, I'll call it a day and resume work the next day.
Just found out today that the shop I have it at currently (and all other body shops in my town) will NOT do a partial repair. I'd have to tow the car to the autocraft shop, remove everything, drag the car to a custom shop have them weld, then drag it back to the autocraft shop. They want to maximize their income by using junkyard parts on my car and pocketing the rest. I'm on my own for this one. Pop rivits and JB weld it is. It dosn't sound like a bad idea. I mean the sheer adheasion of the JB weld would hold it. Pop rivits will do even better.
So here's my plan, remove the old one, shave down to the metal, bolt on the new one and make sure everything lines up, then drill about 40 holes straight through. Layer the JB weld up behind it, then pop rivit it in while the JB is still wet. After that, I'll call it a day and resume work the next day.
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