How Do You Put On A Radiator Support?
06-12-2008, 08:37 AM
#44
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Well, I've done a lot of my own bodywork, including fiberglassing, molding, etc. But this is something I wouldn't feel confident in doing. I'd hate to have it be off even slightly and have my headlights and/or bumper be cockeyed.
06-12-2008, 08:53 AM
#45
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^^^ thats one of the biggest reasons i would want to do it myself.. and with rivets you can put in a few, double check, triple check, etc. before you put in all the rivets. and if its a little off after the first few rivets, you can drill them out and start over.
bull, bolts would be a pain in ass, and more expensive IMO. you would have to make sure they are all tight, put lock tite on em to make sure, and with 50 bolts or so, you would have about 30$ just in hardware and it would take longer than rivets..
once rivets are in their place, they aren't moving til you drill them out.
bull, bolts would be a pain in ass, and more expensive IMO. you would have to make sure they are all tight, put lock tite on em to make sure, and with 50 bolts or so, you would have about 30$ just in hardware and it would take longer than rivets..
once rivets are in their place, they aren't moving til you drill them out.
06-12-2008, 09:00 AM
#46
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Vehicle: 2001 Tiburon
50 bolts? I was thinking a couple of big ones... I never had never had my front bumper off that far so maybe im under estimating the size...
06-12-2008, 09:02 AM
#47
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well, i would probably put a bolt every 4" or so up and down the support on either side if i were to do it.. maybe not 50 lol, but prob at least 20 or so, and i would do stainless if i did bolts, which would up the price a good amount.
rivets are cheap, easy to use, and can't loosen.
rivets are cheap, easy to use, and can't loosen.
06-12-2008, 09:32 AM
#48
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QUOTE (SOCKS @ Jun 11 2008, 08:54 PM)
i would do it that way.. would work just as good as long as you used a good amount of rivets and did it right. just because its meant to weld, doesn't mean its the only way..
Its probably alot more cost effective on an assembly line to have a robot do a couple of welds than it is to have it pop a bunch of rivets into it. I'm by no means an expert, but I'm sure that manufacturers look for the CHEAPEST way to build cars without effecting the safety standards.
06-12-2008, 09:36 AM
#49
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o yeah.. its of course a better, quicker way to build it on an assembly line for sure.
im just talking about if you need to replace it, this would be a cost effective, easy solution that any DIYer could do to save him/herself $$$$$.
i was just stating that, just because the manufacturer's weld it, doesn't mean its the only way. it would take longer to do the rivet way, but it would be just as effective and anyone can do it.
im just talking about if you need to replace it, this would be a cost effective, easy solution that any DIYer could do to save him/herself $$$$$.
i was just stating that, just because the manufacturer's weld it, doesn't mean its the only way. it would take longer to do the rivet way, but it would be just as effective and anyone can do it.
06-12-2008, 10:24 AM
#50
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Well, I believe I will go with the rivits method. The single function of this piece of metal is to hold the radiator in place. I think 20 pop rivits will do that. This is not a structural part of the car. The sheet metal it is made of will bend quite easily under pressure. Tack welds, or pop rivits, either one will work. I'm going to do the pop rivits. It makes sence.