Accent LC beta swap DIY:
10-03-2008, 10:47 AM
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Vehicle: 2002 Accent 2.0L
Accent LC beta swap DIY:
Jsharptooth91 Beta 2 swap. DIY…
Motor removal
I am attempting a DIY on the Beta swap. This swap is only for the 2000-2002 LC 1.5 (would also work for the 1.6L DOHC). Accent. My car has no AC and it’s a manual transmission. I will try to include mostly everything. But, I am writing this after I have completed the swap. So, minor details might be left out.
Attempt this at your own risk, this is only a guide. I assume no responsibility for your actions.
I’m not going to list a “tools needed” section. But I will tell you that you will need a tool set, all metric. If you get a 150 craftsman set, that should work for sockets and wrenches.
What I find very handy is an electric impact I picked up at Schucks for $20.00. It’s the only way to get the underdrive pulley bolt off and the flywheel bolts. I strongly suggest picking up one of them. That is if you don’t have an air compressor.
Also you will need an angle grinder. I picked mine up from Harbor Freight tools for $20.00 and it works great. I will explain later why we need that.
Here is my parts list of everything I got. Well mostly everything. The total was around 1200 for the swap.
Here is a Excell spread sheat of parts and price.
Beta swap shopping list.
Parts
2002 Elantra
Manual transmission starter
1.6 DOHC LC ECU
Clutch (Scoupe turbo)
OBX underdrive pulley
Water pump
Timing belt kit
Spark plugs and wires
Thermostat
PCV valve
Exhaust headers
Water pump/alternator belt
Fly wheel bolts x6
Fly wheel and resurface
Oil & filter
Antifreeze
Ryan Olson Motor mount
So let’s start.
First we need to understand what year’s cars came with the Beta 2.
Tiburon 2003-2004
Elantra 2001-2003
I snagged mines from a 2002 Elantra with 63k on it. I paid 425.00 for it.
Since we know what car to get our motor from, you will need to get a hold of a wrecking yard to find one. If you want power steering and AC, you will need to grab that as well. I opted not to do either for my swap, but did some research on the PS stuff. So you’re on your own to figuring it out the AC. The PS you will need the hi-pressure lines and the resovor as well, mostly everything from the rack. (I am talking about the hoses), as well as the pump. Also, try to grab connectors for the beta 2 sensors. They should come with the motor, but if not then I would grab them. The ones you need are MAP and the coils, everything else should be PnP.
Once you get your motor, I would strongly recommend replacing the timing belt and all the tensioners, water pump, and the belt for the water pump and alternator. If you want to install an underdrive pulley as well, nows is the time. If you choose to install an underdrive pulley, you will need a smaller belt for the water pump/alternator as well. I think it’s about an inch smaller, around a 34-35in belt should work.
**The motor sits very close to the passenger side, so if your timing belt breaks or your serpentine belt breaks, you might have to pull out the motor to replace it.
You will also want to change the plugs and wires as well.
So we got all the parts we need now. Let’s start removing the motor. Assuming you have an engine lift.
This is how I removed my motor. I’m sorry I didn’t take pictures of me removing the motor.
• Disconnect the battery. Remove the wires to the starter..
• Remove the hood, 2 bolts on each hinge. 1 person can do it, but I recommend 2 people.
• Disconnect all the sensors; remember to label them with some tape or something with that nature.
• Disconnect the fuel line. You want to put a glove or something over this, it could release fumes and potential have small partials get inside.
• Disconnect the clutch cables on the tranny. Don’t loose any of the pieces on the. Especially the half moon looking deal. That lets your car go in reverse.
• Disconnect the break booster line.
• Remove the power steering pump with the line still attached. You will want to disconnect the lines after the motor is out. This makes it easier
• Disconnect the exhaust headers under the car.
At this point all the wiring should be disconnect along with any vacuum lines.
• Now loosen the lug nuts on the front ties.
• Jack up the car, the put it on jack stands.
• Remove the tires.
• Remove the two bolts hold the spindle to the strut. The strut will be hanging, this is fine. Repeat on the on other side.
• DO NOT pull out the axles from the tranny yet. You still have gear oil in it.
• Drain the oil
• Drain the radiator.
• Drain tanny gear oil.
Once all the fluids have been drain, now you can disconnect the radiator hoses and the heater core hoses in the rear of the motor. Some fluid will still leak out of the hoses, so have a bucket or something ready.
Now you can pop out your axles from your gear box. I use a screw driver to kind of pry them out (gently).
Before you pop out the axles you remember to:
• Remove the tires.
• Remove the two bolts that attach the strut to the spindle.
• And drain the gear oil.
After you get them out, I had to move the steering wheel the opposite way to get clearance of the axles from the motor.
Now at this point the only thing that should still be connected to your motor is the motor mounts. If I forgot something I’m sorry. Take a good look and make sure nothing is still connected, if it is disconnect it.
Now you need to attach the engine lift to the motor and pull it out. Disconnecting the motor mounts as you go. Just be careful when moving the motor out, making sure nothing is still attached to the motor or any wires that may get snagged in the process.
Then set the motor on the ground or where ever you want to put it.
Don’t start ripping items off the motor yet, you will need some of the parts.
Parts you need off your 1.5.
• Starter.
• Crank shaft position sensor.
That should be it; you might need something extra down the road. So let’s hang onto it until we are done.
Motor removal
I am attempting a DIY on the Beta swap. This swap is only for the 2000-2002 LC 1.5 (would also work for the 1.6L DOHC). Accent. My car has no AC and it’s a manual transmission. I will try to include mostly everything. But, I am writing this after I have completed the swap. So, minor details might be left out.
Attempt this at your own risk, this is only a guide. I assume no responsibility for your actions.
I’m not going to list a “tools needed” section. But I will tell you that you will need a tool set, all metric. If you get a 150 craftsman set, that should work for sockets and wrenches.
What I find very handy is an electric impact I picked up at Schucks for $20.00. It’s the only way to get the underdrive pulley bolt off and the flywheel bolts. I strongly suggest picking up one of them. That is if you don’t have an air compressor.
Also you will need an angle grinder. I picked mine up from Harbor Freight tools for $20.00 and it works great. I will explain later why we need that.
Here is my parts list of everything I got. Well mostly everything. The total was around 1200 for the swap.
Here is a Excell spread sheat of parts and price.
Beta swap shopping list.
Parts
2002 Elantra
Manual transmission starter
1.6 DOHC LC ECU
Clutch (Scoupe turbo)
OBX underdrive pulley
Water pump
Timing belt kit
Spark plugs and wires
Thermostat
PCV valve
Exhaust headers
Water pump/alternator belt
Fly wheel bolts x6
Fly wheel and resurface
Oil & filter
Antifreeze
Ryan Olson Motor mount
So let’s start.
First we need to understand what year’s cars came with the Beta 2.
Tiburon 2003-2004
Elantra 2001-2003
I snagged mines from a 2002 Elantra with 63k on it. I paid 425.00 for it.
Since we know what car to get our motor from, you will need to get a hold of a wrecking yard to find one. If you want power steering and AC, you will need to grab that as well. I opted not to do either for my swap, but did some research on the PS stuff. So you’re on your own to figuring it out the AC. The PS you will need the hi-pressure lines and the resovor as well, mostly everything from the rack. (I am talking about the hoses), as well as the pump. Also, try to grab connectors for the beta 2 sensors. They should come with the motor, but if not then I would grab them. The ones you need are MAP and the coils, everything else should be PnP.
Once you get your motor, I would strongly recommend replacing the timing belt and all the tensioners, water pump, and the belt for the water pump and alternator. If you want to install an underdrive pulley as well, nows is the time. If you choose to install an underdrive pulley, you will need a smaller belt for the water pump/alternator as well. I think it’s about an inch smaller, around a 34-35in belt should work.
**The motor sits very close to the passenger side, so if your timing belt breaks or your serpentine belt breaks, you might have to pull out the motor to replace it.
You will also want to change the plugs and wires as well.
So we got all the parts we need now. Let’s start removing the motor. Assuming you have an engine lift.
This is how I removed my motor. I’m sorry I didn’t take pictures of me removing the motor.
• Disconnect the battery. Remove the wires to the starter..
• Remove the hood, 2 bolts on each hinge. 1 person can do it, but I recommend 2 people.
• Disconnect all the sensors; remember to label them with some tape or something with that nature.
• Disconnect the fuel line. You want to put a glove or something over this, it could release fumes and potential have small partials get inside.
• Disconnect the clutch cables on the tranny. Don’t loose any of the pieces on the. Especially the half moon looking deal. That lets your car go in reverse.
• Disconnect the break booster line.
• Remove the power steering pump with the line still attached. You will want to disconnect the lines after the motor is out. This makes it easier
• Disconnect the exhaust headers under the car.
At this point all the wiring should be disconnect along with any vacuum lines.
• Now loosen the lug nuts on the front ties.
• Jack up the car, the put it on jack stands.
• Remove the tires.
• Remove the two bolts hold the spindle to the strut. The strut will be hanging, this is fine. Repeat on the on other side.
• DO NOT pull out the axles from the tranny yet. You still have gear oil in it.
• Drain the oil
• Drain the radiator.
• Drain tanny gear oil.
Once all the fluids have been drain, now you can disconnect the radiator hoses and the heater core hoses in the rear of the motor. Some fluid will still leak out of the hoses, so have a bucket or something ready.
Now you can pop out your axles from your gear box. I use a screw driver to kind of pry them out (gently).
Before you pop out the axles you remember to:
• Remove the tires.
• Remove the two bolts that attach the strut to the spindle.
• And drain the gear oil.
After you get them out, I had to move the steering wheel the opposite way to get clearance of the axles from the motor.
Now at this point the only thing that should still be connected to your motor is the motor mounts. If I forgot something I’m sorry. Take a good look and make sure nothing is still connected, if it is disconnect it.
Now you need to attach the engine lift to the motor and pull it out. Disconnecting the motor mounts as you go. Just be careful when moving the motor out, making sure nothing is still attached to the motor or any wires that may get snagged in the process.
Then set the motor on the ground or where ever you want to put it.
Don’t start ripping items off the motor yet, you will need some of the parts.
Parts you need off your 1.5.
• Starter.
• Crank shaft position sensor.
That should be it; you might need something extra down the road. So let’s hang onto it until we are done.
10-03-2008, 10:47 AM
#2
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Vehicle: 2002 Accent 2.0L
Installing Beta.
Make sure you prep the beta motor, which means having the water/timing belt installed. Along with any other belts that you may have.
Get your flywheel installed with a clutch on it. I tried to do most of the work with the motor out of the car, it’s just easier.
Here is a pix of the clutch installed.
That angle grinder I mention in the beginning, this is where you will need it. You will need to grind some of your motor off before you install the tranny. Just enough so the clutch slave cylinder will mount up. What I did, is put the 1.5 metal spacer (the one that goes between the motor and the tranny), I grinded the motor down to meet that spacer. Here is a pix of what I’m taking about.
After you get that sorted out, mount your tanny on to the block.
Now remove the beta crank sensor and install the alpha crank sensor. The beta should have 3 pins, as where the alpha has 2.
Install the alpha starter.
Before you install the motor you need to either slot you mounts about ½” over or beat the hell out of the passengers side wall, the wall where the belts face.
The belts and pulleys are very close to the wall.
First, I slotted the mounts and install the motor. I didn’t like the way the mounts looked. So I took them out and put them back the original way. Then I took a hammer and beat the hell out of the wall. Beat It in about ½”. That did the trick for me. To each their own.
This is how close the motor sits to the wall.
**While your motor is out make sure you do the throttle body coolant by pass.
Now with everything on the motor you want to put the motor in the engine bay. When you lower the motor you want it to be as level as can be. Horizontal level, this is what I found that works best. Then slide it down, it will be a tight fit, but it will fit. This way it’s easier to mount up the motor mounts.
Now you should have the motor in the car now! You have the thee mounts attached to the engine bay, Now you need to fab up a mount for the passengers side. I bought mine from the betaswapshop.com, they are no longer selling the mount. What I have heard that other members have done is the flipped over their stock mount, cut off the roll stop and welded it to the other end of the bar with the three holes. Make sure you have the motor level before you get the mount all fab’ed up. Here is a shot of my mount.
Now the motor should be installed with all four mounts. The motor should be level if you put a level on the intake manifold.
Now nothing should be connected to the motor.
Here I’m going to list of items that should be connected, they do not have to be done in this order. Most items will be done in the reverse order they were removed.
• Clutch cables, the ones that go on top of the tranny.
• Connect the axles to the tranny.
• You might have to buy longer heater core hoses, mine was a close fit, but they fit.
• I have the half radiator that came with the 1.5,L I cut the top hose and fitted it on the motor. If you want you should be able to by a hose for the motor that the car came out of. 2002 Elantra radiator top hose should fit. At this point you should have your radiator installed, if not then install.
Here is a pix of the top hose.
• Fuel line
• Throttle cable
• Ground wires
• Vacuum hoses.
• Make sure all the hoses and lines are connected. Everything but the wiring.
I might have missed some steps here, but in general you should have everything hooked up but the battery and the wiring in the engine bay.
Now lets move on to the wiring part.
Beta wiring.
When you go to make your connections, make sure they are good connections. I solder them on and have shrink wrap over the connections. This makes for a good connection.
It’s not a whole bunch of wiring changes. We will be using the 1.6L DOHC ecu. It has the same sensors as the beta 2, except the crank sensor we already replaced. The ecu pin out is the same on the 1.5 as the 1.6 except the 1.5 has a MAF and the 1.6 has a MAP.
Here is a diagram of the two sensors.
If you look at the MAP sensor you will see it has numbers on the outer casing 1-4.
If you look at the MAF sensor you will see it also has numbers 1-5. You have to look down inside where it connects to the connector.
Now just match up the corresponding number to the diagram above, it’s that simple.
The connections below I had to relocate, either making the cables longer or shorter. When you go to plug them in or try to you will know if you will need to extend the cable or shorten it up.
• TPS sensor.
• Coolant temp. sensor.
• IAC
• Wire for the oil pressure sender.
• O2 sensors. I did both. Depending on where your O2 bungs are located.
I think that its, I’m going off of memory, so if I forget something I’m sorry.
I used the Beta coil pack. They have different connectors than the Alpha. I don’t have color match ups, but it will work this way. Do one at a time. On the connector you have a big wire and small wire. They are the same on the Alpha (big & small). Cut of the connector leaving your self some extra wire to do the soldering. Now connect the harness big wire to the big wire on the (Beta) connector and the small wire to the small wire. That’s it! Make sure you do them one at a time, so you don’t get the firing order messed up.
Install the 1.6 ecu now. It’s located to the left of the peddles, behind the drives side kick panel
Make sure you prep the beta motor, which means having the water/timing belt installed. Along with any other belts that you may have.
Get your flywheel installed with a clutch on it. I tried to do most of the work with the motor out of the car, it’s just easier.
Here is a pix of the clutch installed.
That angle grinder I mention in the beginning, this is where you will need it. You will need to grind some of your motor off before you install the tranny. Just enough so the clutch slave cylinder will mount up. What I did, is put the 1.5 metal spacer (the one that goes between the motor and the tranny), I grinded the motor down to meet that spacer. Here is a pix of what I’m taking about.
After you get that sorted out, mount your tanny on to the block.
Now remove the beta crank sensor and install the alpha crank sensor. The beta should have 3 pins, as where the alpha has 2.
Install the alpha starter.
Before you install the motor you need to either slot you mounts about ½” over or beat the hell out of the passengers side wall, the wall where the belts face.
The belts and pulleys are very close to the wall.
First, I slotted the mounts and install the motor. I didn’t like the way the mounts looked. So I took them out and put them back the original way. Then I took a hammer and beat the hell out of the wall. Beat It in about ½”. That did the trick for me. To each their own.
This is how close the motor sits to the wall.
**While your motor is out make sure you do the throttle body coolant by pass.
Now with everything on the motor you want to put the motor in the engine bay. When you lower the motor you want it to be as level as can be. Horizontal level, this is what I found that works best. Then slide it down, it will be a tight fit, but it will fit. This way it’s easier to mount up the motor mounts.
Now you should have the motor in the car now! You have the thee mounts attached to the engine bay, Now you need to fab up a mount for the passengers side. I bought mine from the betaswapshop.com, they are no longer selling the mount. What I have heard that other members have done is the flipped over their stock mount, cut off the roll stop and welded it to the other end of the bar with the three holes. Make sure you have the motor level before you get the mount all fab’ed up. Here is a shot of my mount.
Now the motor should be installed with all four mounts. The motor should be level if you put a level on the intake manifold.
Now nothing should be connected to the motor.
Here I’m going to list of items that should be connected, they do not have to be done in this order. Most items will be done in the reverse order they were removed.
• Clutch cables, the ones that go on top of the tranny.
• Connect the axles to the tranny.
• You might have to buy longer heater core hoses, mine was a close fit, but they fit.
• I have the half radiator that came with the 1.5,L I cut the top hose and fitted it on the motor. If you want you should be able to by a hose for the motor that the car came out of. 2002 Elantra radiator top hose should fit. At this point you should have your radiator installed, if not then install.
Here is a pix of the top hose.
• Fuel line
• Throttle cable
• Ground wires
• Vacuum hoses.
• Make sure all the hoses and lines are connected. Everything but the wiring.
I might have missed some steps here, but in general you should have everything hooked up but the battery and the wiring in the engine bay.
Now lets move on to the wiring part.
Beta wiring.
When you go to make your connections, make sure they are good connections. I solder them on and have shrink wrap over the connections. This makes for a good connection.
It’s not a whole bunch of wiring changes. We will be using the 1.6L DOHC ecu. It has the same sensors as the beta 2, except the crank sensor we already replaced. The ecu pin out is the same on the 1.5 as the 1.6 except the 1.5 has a MAF and the 1.6 has a MAP.
Here is a diagram of the two sensors.
If you look at the MAP sensor you will see it has numbers on the outer casing 1-4.
If you look at the MAF sensor you will see it also has numbers 1-5. You have to look down inside where it connects to the connector.
Now just match up the corresponding number to the diagram above, it’s that simple.
The connections below I had to relocate, either making the cables longer or shorter. When you go to plug them in or try to you will know if you will need to extend the cable or shorten it up.
• TPS sensor.
• Coolant temp. sensor.
• IAC
• Wire for the oil pressure sender.
• O2 sensors. I did both. Depending on where your O2 bungs are located.
I think that its, I’m going off of memory, so if I forget something I’m sorry.
I used the Beta coil pack. They have different connectors than the Alpha. I don’t have color match ups, but it will work this way. Do one at a time. On the connector you have a big wire and small wire. They are the same on the Alpha (big & small). Cut of the connector leaving your self some extra wire to do the soldering. Now connect the harness big wire to the big wire on the (Beta) connector and the small wire to the small wire. That’s it! Make sure you do them one at a time, so you don’t get the firing order messed up.
Install the 1.6 ecu now. It’s located to the left of the peddles, behind the drives side kick panel
10-03-2008, 05:44 PM
#4
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Vehicle: 2003 elantra, Soon to be beta swapped 01 lc hatch
You are my Hero! I am anxiously awaiting the rest of the info as I'm am at about to have the donor engine soon.
And BTW so far this is an awesome DIY!!!
And BTW so far this is an awesome DIY!!!
10-04-2008, 09:08 AM
#5
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Thanks, I will keep working on it when I have time. Im working 6 day straight for the next three week, so i will be busy. smile.gif
10-04-2008, 03:03 PM
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Updated shopping list, and install.
If your reading threw this and something seams out of place let me know. I am doing this from memory.
If your reading threw this and something seams out of place let me know. I am doing this from memory.
01-08-2009, 09:29 PM
#9
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Vehicle: 2002 Accent 2.0L
Swap motor is running great, no problems so far. Drove it down to LA and back to Or 2 weeks ago and issues. The only compliant I have is the exhaust is too loud. I have a Buddie grabbing me a stock resonator from a g35, which I hope should work.
Car was getting 35 MPG & 85+ MPH if anyone wants to know
Car was getting 35 MPG & 85+ MPH if anyone wants to know
03-04-2009, 08:14 PM
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Vehicle: 2002 hyundai accent
Hey about the clutch .. Did you use the elantra pressure plate ? Becaus right now i have the 2l flywheel and 1.6 clutch and pressure plate and its not working .. the presssure plate seems a little too small .. thanks