Loneshark

oh wow ! suxors !



the engine probably never started, so the alarm system kept giving power to the start circuit. Your starter most likely cranked the engine over and over and over until it hit the wall. if the engine started it probably would have stalled out.


the starter is very powerful when in conjunction with first gear. Ive heard stories of people using their starter when they run out of gas to get them to the gas station, once you get going, you can actually shift into second and hold on the ignition, propelling you briskfully down the road.


sorry for your mishap, but you messed up buddy.

butters

TRUST ME, i know the feeling. sorry to hear about that man..

DTN

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (fury @ Mar 21 2008, 05:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Read my previous post, "I'm throwing that alarm away! I'm thinking of getting a reliable brand-name. I'm not getting one with a remote start, again. Reason being that these things are made of circuits and electronics, and they *CAN* fail, as did for me!!! Even if it says, "for manual transmission", electronic".

I'M NOT GETTING ANOTHER REMOTE STARTER. Screw that! Like I said, even if it says, "for manual transmission", circuits can fail (as did with me!)</div>
Circuits do fail. What you want is something that will fail in a safe mode... and redundancy. I like Tibby01's setup. Magnetic switches or hall effects transistors are pretty reliable and most are designed to open rather then short His car won't start unless the magnet on his shifter is right above the electromagnetic switch on his shifter base. Basically, it won't start unless it's in gear. It sounds like if you added that to the power wire on your current setup, you'd be in business.

Ericy321

Hit me up if you need some air bags man. Ive got driver and passenger for RD2. If yours is RD1 I have the passenger anyway and a module. PM me if you need anything.

fury

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (DTN (DrivingTibNaked) @ Mar 21 2008, 10:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Circuits do fail. What you want is something that will fail in a safe mode... and redundancy. I like Tibby01's setup. Magnetic switches or hall effects transistors are pretty reliable and most are designed to open rather then short His car won't start unless the magnet on his shifter is right above the electromagnetic switch on his shifter base. Basically, it won't start unless it's in gear. It sounds like if you added that to the power wire on your current setup, you'd be in business.</div>

hummm. wow, sounds good. So I guess I could take his concept and use the magnet on the shifter and use it with the electromagnectic switch to allow the car to start ONLY if in neutral. Do you have more info on how to set that up? Or point me to some resource that might help me set that up?


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Ericy321 @ Mar 21 2008, 11:12 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Hit me up if you need some air bags man. Ive got driver and passenger for RD2. If yours is RD1 I have the passenger anyway and a module. PM me if you need anything.</div>

Ericy321, thanks man! Yeah, you bet I need airbags. It's for an RD1, though. I'm gonna PM you right now.

In fact, here's stuff I need:

- passenger-side air bag (Ericy321)
- driver-side air bag (anyone??)
- anyone local have a bumper (not the bumper cover, the actual bumper)? (local = Toronto, Mississauga, Scarborough, or thereabouts)
- my moon-roof's driver-side bracket broke on impact. do I need the entire moon-roof or can I get just the bracket? Whatever is needed, can someone hook me up with either an entire moonroof or just the bracket?
- I need a radiator, anyone local with a good aftermarket radiator (ie. Toyo)?

butters

ill see about gettting my airbag out for ya. send me a PM

fury

- So I just got my windshield installed: $202 with tax ($180 without).

- Bought the radiator: $208 with tax ($185 without)

- A big thanks to Ericy321 and butters for coming forth to me with the airbags and modules. We're coordinating this. My aim is have a done and paid-for deal with them, by today.

- bumper and bumper cover: if anyone has any, please let me know.

- sunroof: I need the track, or if no one has it, then I need the entire sunroof.

A big thanks to Mad_John for looking into things for me too.

Let me know, guys.

01tibby

i have no clue why you would even want the potential to change the thing to auto with a switch. it should have been left out.

sorry for your luck.

Alex01tib

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Basically, it won't start unless it's in gear</div>

You mean it wont start unless its in neutral

tough break man, good luck with the heal, even when i lived up north i decided this wasn't something i was gonna install.

fury

update:

I've spent about $800 on radiator, PAB, DAB, module, sunroof, bumper beam, and windshield. I took my car to the bodyshop today, to fix the hood (you'd see a 3/4" gap on the driver-side), the headlights were in and needed to be popped out, install the bumper rail, an aftermarket bumper cover, paint the bumper cover and hood. He's charging me $700. Damn, I didn't think it was gonna be that much!

Just one problem. I liked this bodyshop. They had previously done work on my parents' car and they did a good job at a good price. But it seems that they just wanna do the easy stuff. He doesn't wanna put in my aftermarket bumper cover because it's not a direct fit. So I called around other body shops who told me they would do it for $200 (installed and painted). So tomorrow I'm gonna pick up my car from him and take it to another bodyshop for the bumper installation.

I still need to buy an ac condenser. I've been quoted $140 new. Given that it's not summer yet, it's not urgent for me, yet. I saw 2 on sale at rockauto: one for 80 and one for $168. Why such a big diff?

Also, I need to install my PAF, DAB, module, and clockspring. I have to pick up the clockspring from the junkyard.

BTW, how can you tell if your clockspring needs to be replaced?