ok...i have not talked to him in weeks though not since 9/27 via text message

 

no worries, I'm just looking for someone a little closer to him than I am (i.e. the pesky buyer of his pride and joy that now won't stop bothering him during an even worse time in his life..)

Just so we're clear, my last posts were in no way meant to be accusing or negative. I don't blame Sean at all for not responding, he's got more important things to think about right now.

But at the same time, I sorta can't just forget about the second part of our sale.. Am doing everything I can to take the monkey off his back and put it on mine but no response..

I'll even just take a small refund for the cost of engine (but I know he probably doesn't wanna be stuck with that in his garage anyways..)

Take care Sean! any help appreciated

 

I'm just getting back to real life. Please check your email.

 

Got it. Replied.

Well the only thing I've done to it (other than change spark plugs and scrape the traction bar a couple times) is added a 36" glasspack after the flexpipe and ravinaziankid's dynomax muffler on the end.

Couldn't decide on a tip (and didn't really see the point in wasting money on one, especially when most act like a cork on the end anyways..) so I took a curved piece of the 3" mandrel bent tubing that was cutoff (nice work btw, whoever did it..) and welded it to end of muffler as a 'tip' LOL. Looks great actually. Should probably get it coated or something to make it look even nicer (anyone know how they do that 'flame treatment' look on the ends of piping?)

Oh and I fixed that second to last mount that was screwed into the subframe it looked like (with a self threading screw about 1/4" long LOL), would always come loose and rattle.

It's beautiful under there now.

I frickin LOVE the way it sounds.

(track next weekend, Firebird East!) smile.gif

EDIT:
Oh and I'm going to suck it up and accept the fugly soap bar rear-end look.. leaving it spoilerless (unless a miracle happens)..

Just wanted to put that out there, in case yamaha reads this (so you can sleep better at night) wink1.gif

 

for the blue tip you have to heat the tip with a MAPP gas torch, maybe propane too but i dont know if it gets hot enough. and it has to be CLEAN before you do it. if it doesnt turn out right, i belive you can redo it somehow, i'm not positive as to how though.

 

Well this is fun (track day).

car needs some attention to the details to be run flat out for 20min straight. Lots of things to fix.

Suspension is #1. Feels all wrong in anything but a straight line.

Gotta figure a way to fix the pressure build up in crankcase (first problem of day). PCV works, vents to engine bay and breather line is clear runs to catch can/filter. No connection between crankcase and intake plenum..

Temp fixed that by rigging a coiled spring around dipstick and attaching to open hole on wastegate flangle (kept popping off and spraying oil all over the manifold..) Smoky not good...

After that it was VERY fun, car drives like a rocket and brakes are amazing. But then out of nowhere I go boom. Backfire and engine quits. I think nothing of it cause of the 110 octane gas I'm running but car won't restart. Crank, no start.

Luckily I parked next to the guy who owns the company that makes the factory scantools for Hyundai/Kia (until Tues at least). Jay, races red rx7. He just so happened to have one.. Turns out the connector plug and associated wires (harness side) to the ckp sensor melted! Against what? I have no clue. All that's there is the bell housing of transmission and a motor mount. Looks like it burnt up on bell housing. There used to be a stock clamp that kept the sensor wiring somewhat rigid and away from contact with any metal..

Also luckily, I have a spare Hyundai sitting in garage in Prescott. 110miles away... (that I can pull ckp sensor connector from wiring harness)

Anyways, brings me to second problem of car (for any kind of track use at least). It's a clusterf*** of wires touching wires touching metal. And after about 5 laps temps in the engine bay (anywhere) are hot enough to melt metal.

So simplification in the engine bay is task #2 for me, #1 being fixing damn ckp sensor wiring harness connector plug..

It's 5am, (I missed my 4am shuttle back down to Firebird Raceway) and I'm tired as f***.

Moral of story. Don't track your daily driver unless you have $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ shock.gif

 

You are not having much luck, are you?

I'm suprised you are, as I never had issues with her, and ran at alot of autox events for a good 15-20 minutes. What issues were you having with suspension? I know the car needed a front end alignment when she left my hands, did you get one? Also, the stock front brake pads under alot of heavy braking warp rather easily, which I'm thinking might of been your issue with a wheel stutter you might of had.

I don't recall, but I know the CKP sensor isn't anyway near the turbo, but if you were running for twenty minutes hard out, it must of got hot as hell in there. When I bought the car, barely any of the wiring harness was in place, so I did my best with it. Hope everything works out on getting those little issues fixed.

I hope this was not your daily driver for the time being, if so, I am sorry to hear about the issues you are having.

Side note to above post about front brake pads: I know Hawk does make pads for that specific kit, but cannot recall as to what they are, I'll check on TireRack.com later on. I know TDonnell had them on his car when I last saw him.

 

^^^
At what elevation though?

I had the same problem with the oil dipstick, and the only way I got rid of it was hooking my PCV and Valve cover vent lines back up correctly, or to my dual catch can setup. Went away.

 

It's not luck, these issues I'm bringing upon myself. The track is a very good test of a design. It's where I go to fine tune my work, and have fun learning along the way. Problems are a part of that, it's just the nature of the sport..

A track day and an autoX are nothing alike, other than the occasional flying cone. One you avg 25-35mph the other you average 60-100mph depending on the track. This particular track I was at was Firebird East, 1.25 mi with a few short straights, chicanes, a series of s curves, and a carousel that was very hard to master. Each session was just under 24 miles put on the car, in about 20minutes..

The brakes were fine, other than the rear dragging. It became apparent that it in fact was not just the ebrake cable. The cable IS locked (won't retract) but I think the caliper is faulty too. Gonna tear apart this week

yamaha, do you have a thread anywhere (maybe pittspeed?) on details about your brakes up front? Or maybe you can e-mail me what you've done..

I am going to try and upgrade pcv valve, there are ones out there that will actually sucks the seals off your valve cover. Last resort, maybe there's a way I can install a smog pump where the power steering used to be. Cause the pressure's gotta go somewhere, and it's only going to get worse when I decide to push more power..

Suspension is a whole nother world in itself. I'm noticing a little traction bar induced understeer, but need to find the fine line of stiffening the rear to cope with that without causing a rear tendenacy to spin on letting off the throttle and heavy braking. The shock spring combo you have on car is nice for keeping it low, but KYB-GR2 are BARELY a notch above stock.. I really don't want to start going to town on the suspension cause I will end up spending more time and money than you ever have on engine and it'll bankrupt me. But I will find a way to make it noticebaly faster around the track where I need it.


The CKP sensor is DIRECTLY in front of the turbo intake (the way the manifold sits and the way the turbo is clocked). There used to be a bracket that bolts onto bell housing of trans that keeps ckp sensor and oil press sensor wiring away from the block/trans but I think it was removed cause it doesn't look like it'll fit with the intake tubing on turbo.

Pics of where ckp sensor is (this is on spare car)


Pic of melted connector clip (from turbo tib)


So I drove a Porsche 914 with no brakes from the Racetrack back home to Prescott (120miles, mostly highway and uphill so brakes weren't really needed) and snipped the connector from spare tib. Got a ride back down to track Sun morning and soldered in replacement as well as stock mounting bracket to keep wiring away from metal.

Problem solved.

But I do need a new ckp sensor connector clip is anyone has one they'd be willing to clip and mail to me? smile.gif
This is what I need..
Just the connector (wiring harness side) and as much of the wires as you can clip.. The spring clip would be nice too.
I do not need the actual ckp sensor but feel free to include if it's trash to you..

 

I never built the car for all out racing like you are speaking of. If you are venturing into that, I am not sure I will be able to help you much with the issues your stating.

As stated before, the parking brake cables will need to be replaced. The previous owner of the car told me the calipers were new. They are nothing special in the form of pads. Maybe you should buy a rear set of Hawk pads as well if you will be getting into this road course racing.

The brakes up front were purchased form Mad John before I had the car, they are just the 12" rotors with the larger two piston caliper (if memory serves me correctly). The kit was on my old Elantra, the put on the car. They have served well, but again, under hard driving and braking made a noticeable wheel shake when heated up.

The PCV valve is NGM's 30psi valve, you should not be having issues with it, but for the altitude you are at, I cannot be 100% certain on the issue. In regards to the suspension, I have not done anything to the car spring/strut wise, or rear sway bar. Why not upgrade to the GK rear swaybar, that should help with the rear end to spin. I really think you need to get the car aligned atleast in the front and the rear checked to help solve the issue as well.