bluetibbay

You said when your boosted it'll be way to fast and i'll kill myself.
When Im not boosted i'll be beat by little girls on tricycles.

Well, if I can use a boost controller why cant I run at like..5psi "daily driving" which is like 20 miles a day for me.

I don't really know how psi = hp, so if 5psi is considered "a lot" then maybe run at like 3psi for daily driving?

bryce804

ive heard before that each psi you run will give you about 15 more horses, but thats probally a high estimate till higher psi. even if you did this and still have capibillitys to run 300+ hp. you are gunna have to have very low compression piston. which means your car is gunna run like complete crap unless your in boost. and just running 5 psi or 3 psi on a built motor, your engine is still gunna run like crap. you can do it though, your just gunna have an extremly slugish car untill you hit boost. and when you hit boost your gunna start spinning.

I once drove an audi A4 that was a complety show car with 26 psi. i went to take off at the light, car was very slow untill about 3500 rpm, at that point the wheels started spinning. i let off the gas and put it into secod and started going agian. wheels started spining agian.

you will go through tires alot and will have very little control. if that happened on a corner i would have wreck the car. im sure over time you would learn to drive it well, but if you have that kind of money to spend im sure you can have a daily driver with another car.

bluetibbay

Wouldn't you be able to 'middle it out' and run at a level that isn't too fast, but wont' make your engine run like crap either?

bryce804

if under boost possible, but you can't be under boost all the time. unless its highway driving. even then it would be hard too

bluetibbay

Ok I think I figured it out.
Boost to whatever level you want, and only drive if you intend to race, eg driving to the track boosted.

Arctic Seraph

Ummm...15HP / PSI is a worthless statement. That varies a lot between a 4-banger and a V8. So...wherever you heard that, erase that fallacy from your mind. It makes no sense.

However, I think you people have a vague idea, but not an exact one. I'd go over Turbochargers 101, but that's something that you should probably read into on your own. You can't expect people to hand you a silver platter everytime you ask a question. A good book to get is Corky Bell's Maximum Boost. Read up, and then ask questions. There are way too many things you guys have confused...or incorrect...it's easier if you just read a book about turbochargers and how they work.

Or...if you're than ignorant, you can find some shop to overcharge you on installation of a kit...(mostly for labor)...and basically learn absolutely nothing...and be laughed at too. For your sanity and to avoid humiliation, read the books. They're worth it.

MechaniX_034

Somthing else that I have just remembered; you know the issue with the crank tunnel leading to harmonic lash? It appears that _misaligned bores_ can do it too, except that the bore issue will lead to the conrods slowly but surely running out of true, if they don't lunch the bearings first. Was talking to a fellow at the maschine shop the other day, and I thought it'd be best to relay that information. Another issue that came up is relieving the block, essentially clearing up cast-in obstructions which cause localized oil starvation at higher than intended operational loads[you will need to know _exactly how the oil flows_ to get this done, because once you muck this up you will have inconsistant pressures throughout the galleries, and hence need a fresh block.]

Yup Mad, I did forget to include the O-ringing procedure*ack*

Other things I did not add on HP because I had amajor brainfart:

-Sump work: motorsport baffles and pickup installed, or conversion to semi-dry or dry sump[very expensive]

-Tacking of water jackets/welsh plugs

-Leakdown test of head assembly after tolerancing[extra charge for sub-assembly]

-EGR blockoff + elimination[racing purposes only, usually done with standalone install]

-Balance shaft removal[requires balancing of reciprocating assemblies]

-Sealing of balance shaft aperature[alloy insert, pressure test]

Thats about all I can think of for now I think I just had another brainfart....

IJSTBRNDU

I did a little math and i figured out that a tibby should make around 13.59223301 HP per lb..sound about right to everyone else...i just used a prolly bad formula....stock hp/compression ratio= hp per lb. so 140/10.3=13.59....

FlyRyde

yeah but nobody's stock tiburon ever made 140 bhp, and of course not whp.

JonGTR

Found this site while researching shot peening. Has other info on engine building.

http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/