Low Boost On Stock Compression
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Joined: May 2006
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Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
So I did my first track day in this car a week ago at Pocono. They required a 5-6 point harness so it was time to retire the Corbeau...

That seat holds me in so much better! I can focus more on driving the car now...
I stayed up all night making that seat mount up to the existing bracket for the Corbeau, then went to the track. Once I got home I decided to make a new seat mounting bracket out of 1/4"x2" cold rolled steel:


Next project is to make these fit:



While at Pocono I turned the boost down to 13 PSI to prevent damage to the transmission, however being that I was in 5th gear at WOT for about 30 seconds per lap it broke again during the second lap of my 2nd session. I robbed another 5th gear assembly from a junkyard and I'm leaving it on low boost (<20 PSI) until I get my transmission internals back from PAR...
In the mean time I plan on getting those wheels with 275/35/17 Hoosier R7 tires to fit without rubbing so I can tear up my local Auto X's!
I've also got to get cracking on my 4" exhaust which serves no real purpose other than to say I have one :biggrin:

That seat holds me in so much better! I can focus more on driving the car now...
I stayed up all night making that seat mount up to the existing bracket for the Corbeau, then went to the track. Once I got home I decided to make a new seat mounting bracket out of 1/4"x2" cold rolled steel:


Next project is to make these fit:



While at Pocono I turned the boost down to 13 PSI to prevent damage to the transmission, however being that I was in 5th gear at WOT for about 30 seconds per lap it broke again during the second lap of my 2nd session. I robbed another 5th gear assembly from a junkyard and I'm leaving it on low boost (<20 PSI) until I get my transmission internals back from PAR...
In the mean time I plan on getting those wheels with 275/35/17 Hoosier R7 tires to fit without rubbing so I can tear up my local Auto X's!
I've also got to get cracking on my 4" exhaust which serves no real purpose other than to say I have one :biggrin:
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Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
Thank you for the compliments!
The tires are on order so hopefully I can pick them up next Monday and get them mounted on the wheels for some official test-fitting. I'm going to have to work some magic to make these fit without rubbing. Wish me luck.
The tires are on order so hopefully I can pick them up next Monday and get them mounted on the wheels for some official test-fitting. I'm going to have to work some magic to make these fit without rubbing. Wish me luck.
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Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
Wow, sorry for the delay of my response everyone. I've relocated for work to NH so I've been busy acclimating to the new location and searching for a house. Believe it or not I still don't have the gearset lol. He was injured and out of work for a couple of months so the project was put on hold. I just got these photos from him a couple of days ago:


Here is an image of the other gears (disregard the shaft and ring gear, they are for a different transmission - mine will be straight cut, I want to hear the whine!).

All that he has to make now is the final drive shaft and the ring gear. I'm hoping to have them in my possession by March. It's been an extremely long process. My first email communications to PAR were in 2014! As you'll notice the input shaft spline is larger on the new shaft, I've already got replacement clutch discs from Clutchmasters to work with that spline (its the spline of a Mitsu EVO 8). He suggested upgrading it to prevent the shaft from twisting, though I doubt I'd be able to accomplish that with just a FWD. But what the heck, go big or go home right?!
The car is still down south at my parents place (in storage) until I can find a house up here that will suit my needs (big garage!).
Here are some photos of the Volk wheels & Hoosier tires test fit on the car lol:




I had to remove the fender liners from the front and hammer the pinch welded seam behind the wheel/tire flat to allow turning clearance. The car is about 1" higher off the ground with these tires due to their increased height. Here are some comparison shots between the Hoosiers and the 215 Kumho's:



I'll probably end up taking the car to a body shop and having them do the work. I already cut the front bumper to allow additional clearance. I'm most concerned about the rear fender as the inner fender is welded to the quarter panel, so you can't simply cut that out. If I do the work I'll have to cut it out to allow the wheel/tire to travel up and down, then fill the gap between the inner and outer fender with steel and TIG it all in place before putting on the fender flares.
I'll have to find and move in to a house up here in NH before I can get the car, tools, etc moved up and re-commence work on it. I'm hoping to have it setup and ready for track season, which starts in April/May up here.


Here is an image of the other gears (disregard the shaft and ring gear, they are for a different transmission - mine will be straight cut, I want to hear the whine!).

All that he has to make now is the final drive shaft and the ring gear. I'm hoping to have them in my possession by March. It's been an extremely long process. My first email communications to PAR were in 2014! As you'll notice the input shaft spline is larger on the new shaft, I've already got replacement clutch discs from Clutchmasters to work with that spline (its the spline of a Mitsu EVO 8). He suggested upgrading it to prevent the shaft from twisting, though I doubt I'd be able to accomplish that with just a FWD. But what the heck, go big or go home right?!
The car is still down south at my parents place (in storage) until I can find a house up here that will suit my needs (big garage!).
Here are some photos of the Volk wheels & Hoosier tires test fit on the car lol:




I had to remove the fender liners from the front and hammer the pinch welded seam behind the wheel/tire flat to allow turning clearance. The car is about 1" higher off the ground with these tires due to their increased height. Here are some comparison shots between the Hoosiers and the 215 Kumho's:



I'll probably end up taking the car to a body shop and having them do the work. I already cut the front bumper to allow additional clearance. I'm most concerned about the rear fender as the inner fender is welded to the quarter panel, so you can't simply cut that out. If I do the work I'll have to cut it out to allow the wheel/tire to travel up and down, then fill the gap between the inner and outer fender with steel and TIG it all in place before putting on the fender flares.
I'll have to find and move in to a house up here in NH before I can get the car, tools, etc moved up and re-commence work on it. I'm hoping to have it setup and ready for track season, which starts in April/May up here.
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Joined: May 2001
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From: San Antonio, TEXAS!!!
Vehicle: 01 Tiburon Turbo, 99 Tiburon F2E, 2013 Avalon XLE Touring
Nice! I agree with him about the spline. I noticed mine was twisted a bit. I had less power, but was running slicks for a while. Once you start running slicks and getting traction, it all goes to hell. So you're right about going big or go home. You don't want to be spending more down time replacing stupid crap you could have gone bigger with the first time.
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Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
Good to hear from you Jon, I hope all is well. I'll need to source some axles at some point I'm sure, but I may wait until they break to see how much they can take. People never believe me when I tell them I'm on stock axles lol. However I'm wondering if breaking one will cause further carnage to my trans, so maybe I'll invest prior to mass destruction... Is the guy you got yours from still around?
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,166
Likes: 6
From: San Antonio, TEXAS!!!
Vehicle: 01 Tiburon Turbo, 99 Tiburon F2E, 2013 Avalon XLE Touring
Yea, Mike's been around for years and is great to deal with. A local guy putting down over 750whp in his Integra says he's having a great experience with him, even after breaking one of the "insane" shafts. He's a regular racer, running 9's on 13" wide slicks. Mike will work with you to improve his shafts should you ever break one. He doesn't take any chances either, which is why he requested sending my shafts rather than relying on catalog info.
http://insaneshafts.com/
You may want to go ahead and upgrade now if you can. OR at least start the process. It takes about 2-3 months for him to make them. Plus, you don't want to drop your fluid all over the track and be "that guy".
lol
http://insaneshafts.com/
You may want to go ahead and upgrade now if you can. OR at least start the process. It takes about 2-3 months for him to make them. Plus, you don't want to drop your fluid all over the track and be "that guy".
lol


