Just made some passes at the local dragstrip. Best of 12.003 @ 119.6 mph, running 25 PSI now... Always wanted to bottom out the boost gauge I originally purchased, accomplished that goal this evening. That pass I had a 1.975 60' running BF Goodrich D/R's (225's on the stock wheels).



I've been fiddling with the two step a bit. I'd launch the car on two step but at 0 PSI (no boost no vacuum). Then feather in throttle as I released the clutch. Still to get down into the 1.8 - 1.6 range I'll probably need a full slick.



I need to fill the car with E85 and make a map specifically for that fuel where I advance the timing a bit (stay at 25 PSI as I don't know how much more the stock head bolts will take). Should net me some good WHP gains. Speaking of WHP I need to throw the car on the dyno at this boost level and see what she does.



First I need to figure out why my BOV is shuddering under boost, perhaps a larger spring is needed because the 3/8 feed line to the top of the BOV cannot keep the top pressurized enough to fight off the higher boost level. I'll further inspect the spring rate tomorrow and adjust/stack as necessary.



Looking for 11's sometime soon...

 

Haltech have this Fuel Sensor ?



A Flex Fuel Sensor is a device that measures the ethanol content in the car’s fuel system. The sensor is installed between the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel tank, where it monitors the ethanol content of the fuel returning to the tank. That information is then passed onto the Haltech ECU which applies fuel, ignition and boost corrections to make the best power for the ethanol content available.



The Haltech Flex Fuel Sensor allows the driver to add any mixture of ethanol/petrol (from 0-100% ethanol content) without the need to swap tunes or use a laptop.



http://www.haltech.com/flex-fuel-sensor/

 

Hmm ,Interesting ^^...Tdonnell ,Thats an awesome time and sick 60'!!...All I do is spin lol...Theres gonna be an 11 sec Tib here soon!!!!

 

Very cool information XGODZX, however I don't think the E6X will work with that option. I'm just on full E85 at this point and I'm never going back!



I put the car on a dyno for an hour and made a total of about 10-15 pulls while making a/f as well as timing adjustments (got a/f straightened out first then moved to timing). You all probably won't believe the final result:



426 whp

399 ft/lb



At the wheels!!! This was at 25 PSI on E85, my 93 lb. injectors are at 100% duty cycle for very short periods during a pull, no more power until I upgrade the fuel system further! 1600cc injectors or bigger are next...



The car is ridiculous at this point, third gear is completely useless... I put a set of Kumho Excsta XS tires on the car to replace the Falken Azenis and what a difference! The sidewalls are SLIGHTLY softer but the grip is much better, especially in a straight line.



I am going to be DEEP into the 11's at this point, probably trapping 125-130 mph. What was the fastest Tiburon in history on this forum aside from the twin engine? I think it was something like 11.0 @ 130? It was a GK with a turbo 2.0L and an auto trans that was worked if I recall correctly. Well hell I might be able to surpass that with the right tire on a stock bottom end!



Only issue I'm having recently is the starter, the pinion gear will not stay engaged with the flywheel during a crank event. I just replaced the starter last week and maybe started the car 15 times, already it just grinds and requires replacement... I think it may be due to my battery re-location to the trunk and the fact that I only used 4 ga. wire. I don't think the wire can handle the current required by the starter to keep the bendix thrown out to hold the pinion into the ring gear. Resulting in starter failure after a short period. I never had this issue before though... Damn Auto Zone starters. At least they are free because I have a lifetime warranty!



If I get a chance I'll post up the dyno sheet.



Thanks fellas and wish the car luck!

 

Im runnin a garret turbo off an isuzu cab over inline 6, can push up to15 pounds on the stock bottom end, only ever do it when im at the track though, ive found the gearing is too low even with a turbo so some longer gears and some more top end would help, i suggest some cams and titanium valve springs, port n polish and call her good, the stock motor is already runnin about 8 1/2, 9-1 compression, so they handle turbos pretty well, i personally am planning a 2.0 l tiburon swap with the same turbo system im runnin, cause im havin the same problem as everyone else haha i need more power

 

So for those that don't know I finally cracked a cylinder wall on my stock bottom end. I decided to build the engine the way I always planned / dreamed. It's bored .020" over with Wiseco pistons, Pauter rods and ARP hardware. I did a Koyo radiator and Mishimoto 19 row oil cooler. I'd like to keep updating this thread with my continued progress / frustrations.



@Regit, I'm running ID2000 injectors which are rated for 2225cc @ 43.5 PSI on E85 with a Walbro 450 lph pump. My plugs are BKR6E11's (one stage colder than stock) gapped at around .015". The fuel setup should be good to around 700 whp. At 30 PSI and 7000 RPM I'm at around 65-70% duty cycle on E85. I was at 100% at 25 PSI on my old Siemens 870's.



Just put another trans in the car, this one is out of a 97 Tiburon 2.0L. I need to keep better track of what I'm using & how long it lasts as I think the older transmissions are more reliable.



My head gasket is leaking compression into the cooling system again, going to install a 2 layer OE gasket from a Beta II (running the Beta I three layer now) and increase torque from 70 on the M10's and 85 on the M12's to 80 & 90 respectively. Having issues with the washer crushing the aluminum of the head at that torque though so I need to resurface the washer seating area and get wider washers.



The car goes straight to the limiter in 4th spinning the tires, it started to spin in 5th and then the clutch started to slip so I got out of the throttle. It's a custom ACT push-type rated for 485 ft/lb. I expect I'm mid 400's torque at the wheels so the slip is expected. Time to invest in a twin disc!



Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-U4...ature=youtu.be

 

That sounds amazing!

We need some video of this monster in action.



I'm using a 1.8L trans myself ('97 as well iirc) with a similar build. Have you done any mods to the trans missions? Also, who are you looking at for the clutch?

 

Thank you Tibbi. I'm looking at ACT for the clutch/flywheel assembly.



After a substantial amount of research yesterday regarding head studs, torques, preload, pushing coolant etc., I've realized that I've got the standard ARP head studs which are 190,000 ksi. I just ordered 8 M10 ARP 2000 head studs which are 220,000 ksi. The studs I currently have are supposed to be torqued to 60 ft/lb with ARP lube. I've already exceeded that at 70... The 2000's are specified to be torqued to 70 ft/lb. These torque ratings put the studs at 75% of their yield (fracture) point. So I figured if I upgrade to the 2000's I can torque them safely to 80 ft/lb. I only upgraded the M10's because the M12's are rated for 110 ft/lb and I'm not going to torque them that high anyway. One difference between the M10's I currently have and the 2000's is the thread pitch on one end. One is 1.25 but the other is 1.5... After a large amount of research I determined the applied torque of a bolt with the same diameter and 1 thread pitch level change is less than 5%. If anyone is interested in getting the 2000's instead of the standard ones the P/N is AM4.500-2B. They are 11.15 each. Then you'll need M10x1.5 flange nuts which are 10 bucks a pair. I'll actually be threading the top of the studs into the block since the top is the 1.25 thread pitch and using the nuts on the top at 1.5. This is fine according to ARP, who also said the applied torque with the thread pitch change is negligible...



One other thing I realized is I don't have to pull the cams to change the head gasket. I'm an idiot as I've always done that!!! Should make the job easier. Maybe I'll barrow a friends engine hoist and leave the intake manifold and exhaust manifold/turbo on the head lol. That would save a lot of time.



As far as transmissions go, I just disassemble and clean them, install my Quaife differential in place of the stock open diff and re-assemble. I've got custom shims that I use to ensure the shafts have no play. Any play in the shafts will allow the gearsets to spread apart from each other, this will result in premature failure without doubt. Originally I ran Royal Purple 75w90, then I went cheap and started using Lucas Oil 80w90 since I was breaking transmissions so regularly. With this transmission I really took my time cleaning the exterior, interior and assembling it so I went back to the Royal Purple. Fingers crossed that it holds together...



Regit the only problem with not boosting in 5th is that when the tires spin through 4th its the only gear you can go WOT and actually experience a good pull LOL...



Oh and a few months ago at the track I went 11.97 @ 127.58 spinning through third with 225 drag radials on the stock 15" wheels. I thought it was funny because I only went .03 seconds quicker with nearly an 8 mph increase over my 12.003 pass @ 25 PSI. If I went full slick and the trans held up I'd probably be good for low 11's right now.



Here is another quick video featuring two step setup out my side exit before I went to E85: http://youtu.be/MGTmou-74-A

 

Very nice.



Seems like you've got it all done, except for two key parts: Built trans and slicks. Personally, I'd go grab a set of slicks and keep out of 5th permanently until you can save up for a trans. Make sure you go 10.5x28.5!!! They'll be a very tight squeeze and you'll have to play with backspacing. I know I had the 8x22 at one time, but trust me, you'll burn those up. Plus, you'll get the added mph down the track with a taller tire, keeping you out of 5th gear. I forget the calculations, but it was significant, like 10-15mph.





I really need to fly you down to my place so you can finish my car for me.

 

Thank you for the compliments sir! All done? I wish, but the project never stops! I still need a full cage, wider wheels/tires (also some slicks like you mentioned, the taller tire is a good point), GTX3582 turbo (not sure if it will fit with the standard compressor housing), custom made (by my lazy a@@ if I get around to it) exhaust manifold for twin scroll on the new turbo. I also plan to install water/meth on top of E85 to keep intake temps under control. I've already got the full AEM kit I just need to install it. I'm considering these wheels: http://cctuned.com/collections/varrs...-4x114-3-et-22 with a 245 or 255/40/17. The tires will be about 1-1.3" taller than my 215/45/16's, but they don't make any 16" tires that are much wider than 225 so I"m forced to go with a taller tire. I think it will help with my top speed and potential speed per gear as well as traction (both due to the wider tread and taller tire). There are a lot of options in those sizes for tires. I figure I'll have to lift the car up a bit and gut/modify the front fenders (for clearance on turns) plus pull the fenders further out or go custom fenders (something tasteful that doesn't look horrible).



As far as flying down to Texas, maybe once winter is in full swing up here .