Get 2 5-gal cans?

 

Yeah I guess that would be the best thing to do. That way I can keep some in the garage in case I wanna get crazy or go to the track.

Have to see how much they run.

Oh and an update on the idle, it is about as close to perfect as I think I am going to get it. Sits at about 900 rpm @14.6-15.2:1. When the fan kick in the battery voltage map comes into play and drops it to about 14.2:1. If I go any lower with the fuel on the lower battery voltage cell on that map, when I rev it up and let it come back down it will stumble and get a tad too lean so where it is now is 100% better than the 10.8-11.2:1 it was at!!! I'm sooo glad I'm not washing my cylinder walls down with fuel at idle anymore! Just changed the oil too so I know I can actually run 2-3000 miles on it without worrying about it getting diluted with fuel. Not to mention my fuel economy will improve a tad as well.

The car feels super strong with the extra timing I had given it too, and BTW I'm at 20 degrees advanced at 15 PSI from 7000-7500 rpm, it slowly decreases a degree every 1000 rpm roughly. The knock lite never comes on at all, only the shift light I have programmed at 7000. (I'm using the TurboXS Knock-lite in case you didn't know).

I'll have to grab maybe a few 5 gal. gas cans and keep some e85 on hand so I can mess with it. That way I can very slowly tune it and get the idle/low speed right on the back roads near my house safely instead of being in traffic trying to tune lol.

Really can't wait to get to the track and see what she does! I'm REALLY contimplating picking up a Quaife diff soon. The steering wheel jerks all over the place in third even, and fourth isn't much better. It's fun to a point, but when you're doing 120 and the wheel is all over the place from torque steer something needs to be done about it.

I'm also considering throwing a shortblock together with stock rods and my low/comp pistons, although I might as well just get the high volume oil pump and pauters. What are your thoughts on piston oil sprayers? They should allow a bit more boost by helping keep the pistons cool and possibly lowering combustion chamber temps a bit? Or is their only purpose to keep holes from burning into the pistons? Lol. How much boost could I safely run on stock rods w/wiseco 8.5:1 pistons? With stock rods and ARP bolts and those pistons? And the fuel is the limit with pauters I suppose. Couldn't I get custom crowers for the price of the pauters ($792)? Which ones are better? I know you have to notch the block for the pauters so I consider that a downside even though it likely has no ill-effects. Also importperformanceparts.net has a set of factory reconditioned rods w/ARP bolts that have been maged (?) and shot peened for only $179. That seems like a good price seeing that they include the rod bolts too. Those would probably hold up to 400 whp? I need to go make a couple of dyno pulls and see where my hp numbers lie now...

Also what is EDM pressure fed oiling to pin? Thats a $220 option on the pauters. I suppose there is a bore machined in the piston that goes from the top of the big-end to the wrist pin bore? What is that normally used for? High revs or what?

Thanks in advance for help with all my questions.

Oh also wanted to ask a couple of questions related to the turbo bag I recently installed during my manifold re-weld.

I heard rumors that these bags kill your turbo oil seals more quickly than with no bag due to the heat retension one creates. And I can attest to that as after I got home from running the car pretty hard the manifold was not glowing at all but inside the bag through the edges you could see the turbine was still red hot!

Also, how much power do you think I could have gained by going with the bag? I'm sure my intake temps are lower and all, and I guess I MIGHT spool 100 rpm quicker, but the car feels so much faster than before. Even before I advanced the timing more it felt quicker. Just wondering anyway...

And would water/meth be beneficial down the road when I am fully built running e85? It should let me run even MORE boost then right? So why not get it now is what I am wondering...

 

Tyler,

Also remember while running E85 you need to compensate with more fuel not just through the tune, but also with the injectors and fuel pump as well too. If memory servers me correctly, you are running a Walbro 255 with the stock FPR, correct? In the event that you do have injectors large enough to feed the engine on E85, I would keep a close eye on that fuel pump, I feel that you will be running it to it's limits.

Have you looked into traction bars yet? Your car would greatly benefit from them in many ways. You would eliminate wheel hop, the excessive torque steer that you have, and have a more responsive feel on the road. They would not help you with the tires spinning through fourth gear though, lol. The traction bars would be a cheaper route before the Quaife unit.

Throwing a shortblock together would seem to be the next logical step for a more reliable setup. I had two configurations in my old Tiburon before I parted ways with it. I'm not to familiar with the high volume oil pump, but the stock pump can be shimmed to allow for better performance. I personally would do shotpeened rods and ARP bolts in the rods if you don't plan on going over 400whp. The Pauter rods are better as the Crowers come in a few different selections.

I never had an issue with I had my stock rods and low compression pistons. It was the overall abuse and high boost numbers (25+ psi) that eventually killed three piston rings and cracked a piston. 400whp in anything FWD is alittle excessive to me at this point, I think the cheap and reliable route will be the better option, and you will be able to save some money for block machine work. Do you still have that short block you picked up from me years ago?

I have had a few friends that have ran the turbo bags without issues. I personally have never heard of seals in the turbo going bad, but since you have a ball bearing piece, if a seal goes, I don't know if you have to send out the center for service work.

Water/Meth injection would be good if you were staying with 91 or 93 octane. But since you are going over to E85, it's not needed. Good pump gas can only get you so far power wise before you need the higher octane, which is where E85 comes in.

Sean

 

^^ on that note, if youre interested I have a set of new traction bars that havent been installed and are just collecting dust

 

Thanks for the info. Sean. I appreciate you dropping by and taking the time to post up your experiences.

Yes I still have that short block lol. You sure it's ok? I have been worried about getting all the machine work done and finding out something isn't right. Although the chances of that are slim with a block I suppose.

Yeah I am still using the walbro 255 with a stock fpr (really need to upgrade to an adjustable one). What was your fueling setup for the 400+ horsepower runs? I do have seimens 83 lb injectors which equate to 870cc so I think I have plenty of injector for the e85 even if I went up to 18 psi. And on a side note, I'm definately not trying to permanently convert to e85, just would like to get a nice map down for it for some occasional extra fun and maybe dragstrip/dyno use. So I would still use pump gas more regularly. There is only 1 station within 75 miles of my home that sells it, it is only 15 from my house but my point is there are no others so if I went more than say 150 miles away I would need to be running 93.

I don't know about the traction bars because my car is fairly low and they hang 1.5" down BELOW the front crossmember. This would cause problems for me.

I appreciate the offer on the traction bars, PM me with a price and a pic if you have one and we may talk. But honestly, I could make my own out of billet stainless easily. Just wonder where the brackets are normally welded on? The front of the A arm to the front crossmember somewhere? The Quaife is expensive yes, but is warrantied FOREVER even if used in racing applications. Also I'm sure I could sell it if need be because they are nearly impossible to find used... Not that I plan on ever selling the tiburon, waaayyy to many hours of blood sweat and tears in that car to let her go.

Thanks again for the input.

Oh and I don't get wheel hop anymore thanks to my custom stainless steel engine mounts lol. Really isn't that bad as far as vibration goes... Just smooth spinning under power, its great!

 

Tyler,

That short block was in acceptable condition at the time you got it. The timing belt went on the motor, causing some valves to get bent up on the intake side of the head. Worse case if something is wrong just disassemble it to verify that the block itself is in good condition.

I was using a single Walbro 255 with an inline booster pump when I was running higher numbers on the dyno. I also borrowed a friends 760cc injectors so I had a combined 1000cc when I was toying around. You should be fine with the injector size you are running. A local shop has a civic running 1000cc injectors on E85 making close to 700whp, so you should be fine on the injector size.

Traction bars on my old Tiburon sat almost two inches off the ground. They weren't too terribly bad to drive around with considering the area I was in. Solid motor mounts will help as much as traction bars. The bars I had were originally T4TurboTib's, they used the tow hooks on the front of the car and he made a crossmember piece to run some piping from. They worked well, but I had only filled motor mounts, nothing too solid because I didn't want the car to vibrate like a 1950's football game.

Where have you found the Quaife at? The cheapest I've found it was on eBay for $1300ish. I've always wanted to tear into a transmission, but would work on a donor one before I ripped into one I would use in my own car.

Goodluck.

Sean

 

If you're experimenting with different fuels, a drain petcock on the gas tank might be a good idea.

 

Too lazy to drop the tank and flush it for welding a pet-cock in lol.

Thanks for the hp numbers related to injector size, I appreciate it. Was he by chance still running a 255?

As for the trans, I have already pressed apart the gearsets and replaced synchronizers before, so I'm all good in that area.

The diff can be found on ebay for 1195 shipped. Just put in Quaife QDH8B in the search box and you will come up with the correct one.

Remember you need the mitsu speedo gear that presses onto the diff. There is a thread in here that gives it's part number, just search.

 

Any updates man!?..Gary had installed the M&Tec lsd in my elantra tranny many years ago after he blew his 5th gear, I don't even know if you can get them any more ?,but I have zero torque steer !,I have traction bars also but never felt the need to install..absoultly no wheel hop at the track either!

 

Wow, it's been a long time.



After realizing RDTiburon.com is no more I am depressed, but at least the owner of this forum was generous enough to transfer all of the information that was accumulated there to this site.



The car is running better than ever with no major mods other than more boost and adjusting the tune. I would estimate low to mid 300's WHP. I'm running 20 PSI now and the car runs well. On summer days traction is only an issue through second gear, third hooks for the most part.



So much for the title of this thread as 20 PSI isn't exactly considered "low" in the forced induction world.



Hats off to Hyundai for building a stout bottom end!



Been thinking of upping the boost to 25 PSI or adding some more timing on 20, feel like it should be making more power being that it's a 3071 with a lot of other top end work (stock cams are back in right now). I need to make another dyno pull now that I've added boost and increased the timing a couple of degrees.



I don't know how this forum works and if it sends notification e-mails when a reply is posted but I'll try and check in fairly regularly.