I did the same thing (probably worse) and my car smoked almost constantly even after the turbo was rebuilt. First get rid of the 90 degree kink going out of the oil pan and get at least a 1/2" line going out of turbo and maybe an oil feed restrictor.

 

well took the turbo off in a attempt to clock it, its bound together pretty good even after beating on it for a hour with a rubber mallet and spraying pb on it like it was goin out of style

gave up on it, just gonna send it out to get rebuilt when i get money and get it running again in the spring, so the car sleeps until then.

as for the 90, once the turbo is clocked properly i should be able to swap that to a 45 (hopefully).

the drain is a 5/8ths line

oh and here is where it all gets a little wierd....i have oil ONLY on the intake side, car was jacked up on the drivers side only so even with a angle, the exhaust side had no oil in it, oil in the charge pipe but no sign of oil in the down pipe

the turbo sat for roughly 2 years before i even got it, then it sat at my house for another 3 or so

so its safe to ASSume that the seals are shot

 

It's possible since the turbo sat for so long that the metal compression seals on the compressor side got gunked up and isn't sealed properly. With a journal bearing turbo like yours there isn't o-rings or gaskets as seals. Its a metal sleeve type thing that seals the shaft against the housing. I'm betting you have some scoring on your turbine shaft and that's what is letting the oil seep past the seal.

 

Compressor side has no metal sleeve on the shaft like the turbine side does. As a turbo does have o-rings in the CHRA where the thrust bearing sits.

You're probably leaking oil pass the thrust plate collar, i'd have to see it though to make an accurate assumption.

 

id take pics

but for the life of me i cant separate the center section from the exhaust laugh.gif

i got a friend at a place that, baring any crazy wierd hard parts, can rebuild it for 250

so ill send it to em and see what he thinks

 

well long story short, denisst99 convinced me to save my money and rebuild it myself, bought a plumbers torch from walmart (15 bux) snap ring pliers (20 bux) and a rubber mallet (2 bux)

got holsets "build book" and took it down to the very center, still gonna open the CHRA up and take more pics

so far so good, dont see anything crazy with the shaft













will take more pics after i take the CHRA apart

a rebuild kit for this turbo is only $50 bux!!! so if all goes well i should have this rebuilt for approx $90 including having to buy tools

gotta go get some sorta chemical to clean it all up, im used to just using diesel but i donno what it would do to it

 

How many miles on the turbo? Which holset 35?

Looks like the spring loaded seal on the turbine side wasn't leaking since theres no oil on the turbine shaft. Second, you need to start taking off the thrust bearing/spring plate and you'll end up seeing if there is any wear on the thrust.

You can also clean the CHRA with brake cleaner, just remove the o-rings.

Also take some pics of the CHRA internals with marco mode so we can see what condition everything is in, might be able to pin point what your problem was. A bit hard though through pics. Did you scribe the shaft/nut/compressor before removing it? I've rebuilt many turbo's and all of them were balanced again but my recent one wasn't and it's been running strong on the scribe shaft/nut/comp combo.

 

One more note, looks like the turbo been run dry after vehicle shut down or not enough oil supply. Hard to tell in the pics though since it's blury

 

Wel I Donno what caused the leak it does look like it was ran low on oil for a sec, it all seems ok to me, I'm goin to clean it up and get a rebuild kit, and yes I marked it

 

hard to tell from the pics but be sure the shaft doesn't have any marks on it
use a scotchbrite pad to polish it, if marks are still present chance are that it needs to be grinded undersize