I Need A New 2.5bar Map And A Resistor.. Help Me!
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QUOTE (Denisst99 @ Apr 7 2007, 01:33 AM)
just get the 5 volts from the car itself,
tap in the tps 5 volts wire it will work and is going to be way less complicated
tap in the tps 5 volts wire it will work and is going to be way less complicated
that is a good idea! man i never even thought of that... lol let me just get my multimeter and find the right wire!
hmm.. now i have another tricksy question.. since i have an 04 head and an 03 ecu... when i wire up the map sensor, does that already disable the vvt? or do i have to do something else to disable that.
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^^^
I told you on SFR's forums, to disable VVT, I've been told, you just unplug the CVVT sensor on the front right of the head.
I told you on SFR's forums, to disable VVT, I've been told, you just unplug the CVVT sensor on the front right of the head.
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From: South Korea where u car from fool
Vehicle: 2008/Hyundai/Tiburon gt
Red to compleatly shut down the CVVT you must swap out the cams and block off the oil hole for the cam chain adjustment when you do the swap. without doing that the tention on cam chain will change as the oil pressure changes
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Swap the cams with what though? Isn't the CVVT head different at the drivers side?
Shit, that would make me think you'd need a head swap.
Shit, that would make me think you'd need a head swap.
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That makes no sense.
The exhaust cam is longer isn't it? I mean look at the head on a Beta 1 and a head on a beta 2.5 (cvvt), the beta 1 has a much longer snout on the drivers side front portion, the beta 2.5 has a very short one. The valve covers aren't the same either.
So if you put in the cams from a non CVVT engine, don't you need a place for the longer GK cam to go?
The exhaust cam is longer isn't it? I mean look at the head on a Beta 1 and a head on a beta 2.5 (cvvt), the beta 1 has a much longer snout on the drivers side front portion, the beta 2.5 has a very short one. The valve covers aren't the same either.
So if you put in the cams from a non CVVT engine, don't you need a place for the longer GK cam to go?
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ok... im not ordering from kdmguy i dont want to wait on shipping so.. im going with a normal map sensor... the only problem that i have is, do i got with the 3 bar or a 2 bar?? im running 18 psi and the ecu was tuned for a 2.5. i do have a SAFC II to slightly adjust some stuff.. Or do you think i should just go with the original 2.5bar map from kdmguy??
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didn't you say that your ma psensor was allright?
i would at least try the one you have with proper wiring before ordering a new one
i guess that with your SAFC and a 3 bar GM sensor you should be able to dial it right also
i would at least try the one you have with proper wiring before ordering a new one
i guess that with your SAFC and a 3 bar GM sensor you should be able to dial it right also
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nope the CEL keeps coming back on and off.. so i know the map sensor is going out.. When the check engine light comes on, the car acts the same as when the map wasnt wired up.. limp mode...
So im over nighting a Map from jegs but i think im going to go with a 2bar since my boost isnt going over 20 psi, And if i go with a 3 bar it would make the car run a little lean... so ill have to lean it out with the wideband and the SAFC.
here is what i found for the GM map wiring
PN# MSD-2312 2bar MAP
Pin A -- Ground
Pin B -- Sensor output
Pin C -- +5 volts
What do i do with the IAT signal?? The GM map doesnt have that pin out. Could i leave that connected on the original map? so the ecu will still see the intake air temp?
So im over nighting a Map from jegs but i think im going to go with a 2bar since my boost isnt going over 20 psi, And if i go with a 3 bar it would make the car run a little lean... so ill have to lean it out with the wideband and the SAFC.
here is what i found for the GM map wiring
PN# MSD-2312 2bar MAP
Pin A -- Ground
Pin B -- Sensor output
Pin C -- +5 volts
What do i do with the IAT signal?? The GM map doesnt have that pin out. Could i leave that connected on the original map? so the ecu will still see the intake air temp?