zhiryst

Hey guys. I mosty lurk around the site from time to time, and after having tibs since 2002, its about time I turbo'd mine. I've been getting parts slowly for it and what I'm shooting for is a simple setup that will be cheap, easy to work on, and somewhat expandable if I choose to go nuts in the future. Let me state that I know some of these parts are crap parts. I am shooting for 200whp and trying to stay under 8psi of possible. I dyno'd in 2005 with 140whp. I have since installed and street tuned the SAFC and installed lightweight pulleys. I know I'm going to ask some of the same questions other people ask, I just want to maybe make this a post that other people could follow for a simple setup. maybe even a DIY. here goes my part list (everthing is already purchased unless stated otherwise):

Turbo setup:
-DSM t25 turbo, has about 20k on it since rebuild.
-Downpipe with flex pipe and flange to the cat with o2 sensor (came off an x3 accent, from a quick measurement, this should still fit properly, I might have to modify it)
-OBX T3 manifold (yet to purchase) I know they suck, but they are cheap, and it's either that or a reworked 4g63t manifold, which I'm less happy about
-T3 to DSM t25 adaptor Link here The main reason is in case I want to jump into a t3 later on, and also the lack of cheap t25 manifolds around. Again, avoiding welding if possible.
-Used Speedfactor intercooler that I'm gonna use, not in the greatest shape, but as long as it doesn't leak, the T25 should be a good match for it.
-I still need intercooler piping. I'll probably get generic piping from eBay (Unless anyone has any for sale, hint hint)
-I have 2 options for blow off valves, I have a recirculating valve and I also have a DSM BOV. I'll probably use the recirculating valve, I'll get into details later.
-Turbo XS manual boost controller.

Fuel:
-Walbro 255 fuel pump
-Malpassi RRFPR (not sure the ratio)
-inline fuel pressure gauge
-large injectors (got these from a friend, not sure the size yet I have to get them tested, they are all black and have 3 openings in the nozzle, anyone know what they could be?)
-I have the fuel rail fitting to supply the fuel from the FPR
-Apex'i SAFC (I'll get into my plan later)


OK so my car does have a lot of n/a mods, I'll have to get rid of my iridium plugs for colder ones. I I have a Motoria catback with the resonator replaced with a Magnaflow muffler. I have the straight pipe sitting around somewhere, but for inspection and CEL purposes, I have a stock cat. Do you guys think I should get a high flow cat welded with the flanges of the straight pipe?

Ok next is fuel tuning. I am going to attempt to set the RRFPR to run properly under full boost, and use the SAFC to lean out at idle. I figure this is the simplest way to tune since the SAFC sucks from what I hear. I'd like your input on this in a somewhat positive way please smile.gif

I'm probably gonna go to a shop to tune this on a dyno and hopefully I can do any minor modifications to this in the future. I have a narrowband a/f gauge, which is useless for the most part. (for some odd reason the sensor meters from 0.7 to 1.7 while the gauge is meant to read 0-1v though I'm putting in a new o2 sensor with the downpipe)

Lastly, I am trying to cover all the bases here. I am going to use the available bolt on the head to get my oil, and I'll be using a spare oil pan to put in a return line. for the coolant, I'm going to get it from where the Throttle body coolant feed and return are on the engine. That sound good?

I appreciate the help, I'm sure I'm forgetting stuff, so don't get too mad, but I want some input on this. So far all these parts have cost me around $600, I'd love to do all this under $1000.

Oh, foorgot my Blow off Vs. Recirculating dilema. For an internal wastegated, barely tuned setup, this is what I'm planning on setting up for my airflow:

intake->MAF sensor->the return of the Recirculating valve somewhere on the piping before the turbo->turbo->piping->intercooler->more piping->recirculating valve->elbow, then Throttle body. I've seen this setup before on smaller turbo applications, have any of you guys run this? It should help prevent running rich when I let off the boost (i think).

xxxmonoxidechild

most of the plan makes sense. i have no experience with the safc though, but other then that, the set up should be good to go

shimanomtber87

Sounds like a decent setup. Any boost controller?




Don't go straight to a dyno to tune. Street tune beforehand and get it running fairly well first, oh and definitely get a wideband sensor (possibly an OBD scantool as well). If you have questions on tuning, pm JayM. He was a major help to me.

nate704

-DSM t25 turbo, has about 20k on it since rebuild.

Have the turbo inspected by the real turbo specialists, such as rebuilder or turbo shop since it has about 20k on it. Do it right first time, and you will save time and money.

-OBX T3 manifold (yet to purchase) I know they suck, but they are cheap, and it's either that or a reworked 4g63t manifold, which I'm less happy about.

OBX ones are not bad at all. Just make sure that the welds are good and clean or you can get it rewelded for durability, and also check if it's compatible with internal gated turbo due to the fitment issue.

-T3 to DSM t25 adaptor Link here The main reason is in case I want to jump into a t3 later on, and also the lack of cheap t25 manifolds around. Again, avoiding welding if possible.

I think you will end up welding due to exhaust leak. I had a small exhaust leak at the flange area and it caused no boost problem. Welding is the only way to fix it. Do it right first time, and it will save your time and money.

-I have 2 options for blow off valves, I have a recirculating valve and I also have a DSM BOV. I'll probably use the recirculating valve, I'll get into details later.

Basically same thing. You can either recirculate or not recirculate the BOV depends on your setting.

-Walbro 255 fuel pump

You don't need 255lph pump for 8psi (for basic T3 turbos), but psi depends on what kind of turbo you have. I guess you need more psi to get 200 whp with your T25. Get a 2nd Gen Eclipse or Talon fuel pump for cheap or get 190lph one.

-Malpassi RRFPR (not sure the ratio)

Again, if you go with 190lph fuel pump, you don't need it. OEM fuel regulator will handle.

-inline fuel pressure gauge

It's good to have it, but not necessary for your setup.

-large injectors (got these from a friend, not sure the size yet I have to get them tested, they are all black and have 3 openings in the nozzle, anyone know what they could be?)

The are definitely larger than the OEM ones (2 holes), but you need to get them tested in order to know the spec.

-I have the fuel rail fitting to supply the fuel from the FPR

The answer is the same as fuel pump and fuel regulator.

-Apex'i SAFC (I'll get into my plan later)

I don't know your plan, but you will end up throwing it away and getting SMT6 or emanage or standalone. nana.gif

Do you guys think I should get a high flow cat welded with the flanges of the straight pipe?

Yes. You won't have to worry about failing the inspection, and it's the law! Clean air for all of us and our children!! drillsergeant.gif

Lastly, I am trying to cover all the bases here. I am going to use the available bolt on the head to get my oil, and I'll be using a spare oil pan to put in a return line. for the coolant, I'm going to get it from where the Throttle body coolant feed and return are on the engine. That sound good?

Sounds good, and you will have fun removing the plug from the side of the head for the oil feed. LOL nana.gif
Also, get the oil return line fitting or pipe welded. You can get away with drilling and tapping or JB welding, but you will end up with welding. Again, do it right first time, and you will save time and money.

I appreciate the help, I'm sure I'm forgetting stuff, so don't get too mad, but I want some input on this. So far all these parts have cost me around $600, I'd love to do all this under $1000.

It is possible, but if you cheap out the parts, those parts are not going to last long or you will end up paying double and wasting a lot of time. Just plan ahead and double check with us every detail.




For the turbo expert guys here on Rdtiburon.com, please correct me if I am wrong about anything above listed. smile.gif

zhiryst

Nate thanks for the thorough input.
The T25 came from a friend, I have seen it in action and know that its in good shape. It was in a 1.5l accent that occasionally got turned up to 11pounds, but usually ran at 8. If I had just purchased it from eBay or elsewhere, I would have taken it apart and rebuilt it by now. In my long run, I would probably get a second DSM t25 to rebuild myself on the side, probably get it ready for when this one dies.

The reason that I want to go with the RRFPR, injectors and fuel pump was because I had these parts available for cheap, and to substitute real engine management, the fuel tuning could be done with this hardware in a proper manner, at least I thought so. I will have more than enough fuel available, and I'll be able to cut back as much as I want. I'm not worried with ignition timing at this point. Do you think this is a bad idea? I know its an odd alternative, but I think its worth a shot.

As far as the manifold adapter, living in Boston sucks to find cheap custom work. There are shops that specialize, but usually they are shops catering to EVOs or VWs and they charge a crapload for anything they don't want to deal with (like a Tiburon). I will be gobbin everything with liquid gasket on top of the regular gasket to make sure there are no leaks.

shimanomtber87
I plan on getting a wideband eventually, but at this point I barely drive the car anymore, maybe 2 hours a week just to go for a drive and get groceries. If I can get it tuned right, I would rather not have to touch it for a while. I do have a code reader, and we will be doing some light tunning to make sure it doesn't blow up on the way to the shop. Better rich than lean anyways, I don't think I'll have that problem with this setup.



Eventually, the way the setup is now, I will have room for expansion. I do have a set of 1.8l rods and pistons, and a spare head in storage, I just can't justify the time and effort now to install it all. I could also for the most part install an internally wastegated T3 in the future without any problems. This is more of a How cheap can it get done and not blow up test, that I can enjoy for the summer.

xxxmonoxidechild

my set up is very similar to yours i just got done collecting. my fuel set up is pretty much dead on with yours actually.

shimanomtber87

I'm not very good at explaining things through typing, but your ecu needs time to "learn" different settings on your safc. If you take it to a shop to get it tuned before strreet tuning, your ecu will shortly take over the safc (or any piggyback for that matter) and you will have to retune shortly after the dyno. If you play around with tuning on the road and get it running good for a decent amount of time, then you can take it to a dyno and get it fine tuned.

Like I said, I'm not good at explaining things through a keyboard, plus there are members who know alot more about tuning than I do.

Definitely pm Jay M and he can probably clear up what I'm trying to say. wink1.gif

zhiryst

I get what you're saying. I guess its something like when you reset your ecu, you're supposed to drive the piss out of the car for half an hour so it remembers more aggresive settings. once that initial time is learned, then the safc's tuning will be more stable since its working with a ecu thats already learned things. Oh, and I do have a manual boost controller for this setup.

shimanomtber87

^^^ Yea. You have to slowly work your way to the new optimal settings.

zhiryst

ok so far so good, now I do have a couple of small questions, stupid questions too, don't kill me:

1. where on the piping should I put the AIT?
2. I've seen some people do funky things with the idle air bypass motor thing? should I have it get air from the charged piping or the atmosphere?
3. about the vacuum lines, can someone tell me the easiest way to connect everything? I don't know if there is a science to it, or if i just use T fittings to connect them all together.