Alpine SuperCharger update!
Always so informative Random, such splendid replies helps make sense of this world.
Now, Just out of curiousity what would the air intake temps need to be for the supercharger to run cool(in theory)?
Because if i'm driving in -30 degrees weather vs 40+ heat wave, the supercharger can only pressurize and heat air to a certain degree and must effect colder air alot less than warmer air?
Please correct me if I am in error in any way and if anyone can tell me how many degrees the air is warmed after passing through the supercharger would be appreciated.
Now, Just out of curiousity what would the air intake temps need to be for the supercharger to run cool(in theory)?
Because if i'm driving in -30 degrees weather vs 40+ heat wave, the supercharger can only pressurize and heat air to a certain degree and must effect colder air alot less than warmer air?
Please correct me if I am in error in any way and if anyone can tell me how many degrees the air is warmed after passing through the supercharger would be appreciated.
Super Moderator

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,851
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From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
MtAngel
I just wasted an hour trying to type in some math, formulas from corky bell's Supercharged book to give you some info, then my browser crashed and I lost it.
Pick up "supercharged" by Corky Bell. You'll find all the forumula's there to do the math.
I just wasted an hour trying to type in some math, formulas from corky bell's Supercharged book to give you some info, then my browser crashed and I lost it.
Pick up "supercharged" by Corky Bell. You'll find all the forumula's there to do the math.
Uhmmm there is a part in Corky Bell's book that recommends attaching heatsinks to a supercharger's housing, and then venting the bonnet to aid the heat exchange process(not sure if it was supercharged, it may be Graham Bell's Modern Engine Tuning, both those books are back in the library now
It's an idea, but it still isnt very efficient because of the runner length.
It's an idea, but it still isnt very efficient because of the runner length.
Again, thanks to you all for the warm welcome!
But first, I want to make clear to all of you (and the moderaters), my intent for posting here is to get feedback from Hyundai owners on our kits, and my number one priority is to take care of existing customers who have experienced problems with our kits in the past. For that reason, any inquiries about new products should be directed to our company (info@alpine-developments.us , or call [714] 379-8066). Plus, so as to keep a record of correspondence with any owners of our kits who have experienced problems, I would also ask that you contact us direct by e-mail.
On that note, it seems to me that "Jaws" and "Random" have had some experience installing our kits, and would invite you both to please call me as well (I have some questions for you, and would greatly appreciate any insight offered that could help improve our kits and the installation), so please call or e-mail me. I also extend that invitation to anyone else that has installed one of our kits as well.
MtAngel (Maurice)---Random had some good suggestions on how to keep the heat down under the hood. I am not an engineer, so do not know what the reccommended incoming air temp should be either, but a combination of some of the things Random and others pointed out would be good to try. I personally would reccommend the oil cooler, going to bigger (or more efficient) fans (Spal or Flex-a-Lite), fabricate a cold air intake (to bring in air from anywhere but from under the hood), and some kind of air scoop on the hood to help flush out the hot air. (At Turbo magazine, we had one owner of a Typhoon use his air conditioning to help cool the intake air, and claimed he ran almost a full second faster in the quarter mile!) While none of those alone will dramatically lower the under the hood/and intake air temperature, the combination of as many as you can will be dramatic!
And finally MechaniX_034...
...the long story behind why they call me ballrub? (scrathes crotch) About ten years ago, a bunch of Japanese guys started a company called Drag Turbo in Irvine (specialized in Hondas) that I worked closely with for advertising and promotion (scratches crotch again), and they had problems pronouncing the "L" and "R" in my last name to the point that it sounded like "barrenger", and just evovled into "ballrub"! (scratches crotch one more time) No other reason I can think of!!!! (LOL)
Steve
[ August 06, 2002, 04:09 PM: Message edited by: ballrub ]
But first, I want to make clear to all of you (and the moderaters), my intent for posting here is to get feedback from Hyundai owners on our kits, and my number one priority is to take care of existing customers who have experienced problems with our kits in the past. For that reason, any inquiries about new products should be directed to our company (info@alpine-developments.us , or call [714] 379-8066). Plus, so as to keep a record of correspondence with any owners of our kits who have experienced problems, I would also ask that you contact us direct by e-mail.
On that note, it seems to me that "Jaws" and "Random" have had some experience installing our kits, and would invite you both to please call me as well (I have some questions for you, and would greatly appreciate any insight offered that could help improve our kits and the installation), so please call or e-mail me. I also extend that invitation to anyone else that has installed one of our kits as well.
MtAngel (Maurice)---Random had some good suggestions on how to keep the heat down under the hood. I am not an engineer, so do not know what the reccommended incoming air temp should be either, but a combination of some of the things Random and others pointed out would be good to try. I personally would reccommend the oil cooler, going to bigger (or more efficient) fans (Spal or Flex-a-Lite), fabricate a cold air intake (to bring in air from anywhere but from under the hood), and some kind of air scoop on the hood to help flush out the hot air. (At Turbo magazine, we had one owner of a Typhoon use his air conditioning to help cool the intake air, and claimed he ran almost a full second faster in the quarter mile!) While none of those alone will dramatically lower the under the hood/and intake air temperature, the combination of as many as you can will be dramatic!
And finally MechaniX_034...
...the long story behind why they call me ballrub? (scrathes crotch) About ten years ago, a bunch of Japanese guys started a company called Drag Turbo in Irvine (specialized in Hondas) that I worked closely with for advertising and promotion (scratches crotch again), and they had problems pronouncing the "L" and "R" in my last name to the point that it sounded like "barrenger", and just evovled into "ballrub"! (scratches crotch one more time) No other reason I can think of!!!! (LOL)
Steve
[ August 06, 2002, 04:09 PM: Message edited by: ballrub ]
Super Moderator

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,851
Likes: 2
From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
One quick note. Before installing an oil cooler, I would reccomend installing an oil temp gauge to verify that the oil cooler is needed. You want to keep the oil temp gauge after the oil cooler install to verify that the oil never gets TOO cold. If you live in an extreme climate (minnAHsnowDUH! with 100 Degree summers and -60 degree winters), you might need the oil cooler for summer, but you would want to probably block it off for the coldest parts of winter.
You're absolutely right Random...
I was thinking Southern California, and forgot Maurice is from the land of side bacon (LOL--my family's from Quebec, so I guess I'm a "Hoser" too!). The oil temp gauge, and a by-pass for winter should be used, and as pointed out, may not even be needed at all! Plus, if routing the air intake for colder air, make sure there's no possibility of water (or slush) getting in there!
I was thinking Southern California, and forgot Maurice is from the land of side bacon (LOL--my family's from Quebec, so I guess I'm a "Hoser" too!). The oil temp gauge, and a by-pass for winter should be used, and as pointed out, may not even be needed at all! Plus, if routing the air intake for colder air, make sure there's no possibility of water (or slush) getting in there!
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,500
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Vehicle: x3 accent gk tiburon santa fe
getting a bit off topic here but oh well...
Welcome ballrub it's not surprising you're from Quebec... all the good guys are from over here
wink
Denis
Welcome ballrub it's not surprising you're from Quebec... all the good guys are from over here
wink
Denis



yeah keep cool. That and getting rid of the bog. hmmm,. .