use I.8 rods they will hold to 400hp and 8200 rpm with beta 2 head and dual valesprings are need

cams 272 in.ex mine are made by intake "one of the best cam company here"

but you will need a twin disk clutch to hold it... i am runnig a ogura in mine

and yes it will work this is what i had rode and tested till my rods and pistions showed up crom crower

and up grade yor ecu to the sem 2000 aka the 16bit semmins
you dont need not other crap computers

and the stock crank will hold to 800 not 600

and used arp bolts on every thing


any queation pm me or call me up

john

as for what my brother say they are all right to

 

I actually trust Ross pistons more... they are more durable. They also require a larger clearance, since they are almost completely forged (wiseco isnt).

Pauter rods are cheaper and no one seems to complain, I however prefer Crower. They are more expensive, but are highly trusted by the industry.




Do that and your engine will not last long.
The 2.0L was just not ment to handle that much stress... A built engine will take more abuse, but considering the amount of stress.. i doubt that engine will survive under those conditions for very long.



I would not worry about that. If you think about it, youll also be increasing the displacement by going with larger pistons. I do not know of anyone with a built block that stuck with stock sized pistons.
Also keep in mind forged pistons that are 20 over will still be lighter than your stock pistons. So keep weight in mind, if you are thinking engine performance in a modified block.
Also one more variable (besides the variable in whatever rod you choose) you will more than likely order low compression pistons. Low compression pistons will lower down horsepower regardless.

So no matter what way you look at it, your going to lose horsepower building a built block for forced induction. The truth of the matter is though, ask anyone with a built block and its not that bad...
Youll have boost anyways, so feel free to punch it at anytime.

1.8 crank with a 2.0 block is the only safe way to get to 8krpm on these blocks, unfortunately.

 

1.8 vs 2.0

this will prove my point that the 2.0 crank can be used, but jaws is somewhat right since u want it to be a daily driver instead of a weekend racer/only sometimes cruise around

with the 1.8 crank and 83mm pistons you are only at 1.83l compared to 2.024, but it should not matter as long as u match a good turbo to spool up quickly

as for the pistons...they will be fine even though they are not totally forged, but they can have closer tolerances/ less diesel engine sound until they heat up (if u mind that)

the rods...ok yea crower is good, but its like comparing nike and adidas.. they are basically the same just a different name...pauter has their rods in cars making well over 1000whp running at high rpm and running nitrous, with absolutely no problem..they are trusted more in the racing world, but yes in the US crower is trusted more...cuz its US made

in the end if you stick with the major/well known brands you will be ok, just dont go cheap on tuning and keep checking it about every3-5 months because sometimes things go wrong...lean out or run rich

 

I have a PLX wideband o2 setup to make sure that I do not run too lean or rich. So I suppose I will pick up a 2.0 block and a 1.8 crank from somewhere. Does anyone have a link so I can check out these crower rods? Thanks for all of the help guys. cool.gif