I am looking at getting an engine to build for my 350-400hp setup and was wondering if it would be better to do the 1.8 or the 2.0? I was really thinking of getting another 1.8 due to the shorter stroke (less likely to break at high rpm, 7500 maybe?). Anyway, what do you guys think? Also, are there any differences in the blocks of the 1.8 vs the 2.0, strength wise anyway? JonGTR, is that the 2.0 in your buildup thread? Does the beta1 have a forged steel crank? I know people say it is good for 600 horse so it must right? And one last Q. I was thinking of boring it 40 over for the 83mm pistons, (well I plan on getting custom ROSS pistons anyway, so maybe 20 over would be better - 82.5mm piston). Will that weaken the block too much? I plan on running 20-25psi. Anyone have the hwarang billet rods? Sorry for so many Q's. Thanks. smile.gif

 

each block is just as strong..

what would be perfect is if you use the 1.8 crank on the 2.0 block with custom lenght rods and 20 over pistons

You would have the benefit of the longer stroke, larger displacement, ect.

The crank is forged.

for rods, i recommend crower.

 

Almost everyone on this forum will tell you that the best setup is wiseco pistons(overbore doesnt matter strength wise)(about 450-500), pauter rods(740 cheaper and better than hwrang), and as long as you get everything blueprinted and balanced, like you should, you will be able to run the 2.0L crank up to about 8k until wearing will become a issue (after thousands of miles so i wouldnt worry about it too much unless your one of the idiots that thinks everyday is raceday)

as for what jaws said: the 1.8 crank lowers displacement and stroke not increases it. and it puts less tensile stress on the engine than the 2.0l crank all of this = higher revs, safer than the 2.0l crank, but you do have the loss of displacement which could turn into lag and lack of low end power/torque for daily driving

the block is the same just diff cranks (correct me if im wrong guys)

 

2.0 block is a bit taller.

 

everyday is not a receday? huh? dog2.gif wall.gif eek5.gif



Yes, 1.8 block is shorter than 2.0

 

Ok, so I cannot use the 1.8 crank in the 2.0 block then? I don't think that using the 1.8 would be much worse than the 2.0, and I like the extra security of the shorter stroke. So, I can keep the stock crank, then get pauter rods (do they manufacture these for hyundai already, or will I have to send them the specs). I slide the wiseco pistons onto the pauters, and that is about it for strengthening? Will I need to sleeve the block if I want to run say 25 psi? I will probably run 15 daily (occasionally up the boost for fun haha.gif ). Of course I plan on blueprinting and decking and all of that good stuff. Should I o-ring the deck too? If anyone has any tips on reliability and performance aspects of a build like this, please mention them. Also, I am looking at the prs4 slightly. Should I get it? There is a GB at tibsunited.com where they are going for like 675 with software, wiring harness, the works. I havent yet gotten a straight answer for this question yet, so maybe someone can help me out: Does the harness that comes with the PRS4 in that GB just go from the stock connector to the standalone, and if so, how would I pass emissions with such a radical turbo setup? I don't want to have to convert it back to stock to pass emissions you know? Where I live all they do is plug in the OBDII port and look for codes. Is there any way to fool the diagnostic tool they use into thinking my car is fine? Thanks again guys. smile.gif

 

Yes pauter makes our rods, but they do not stock them (made per order) so it will take a couple weeks to recieve them.

as for block sleeving..ill say what everyone said to me when i asked and got burned....
if u are asking this question your probably not ready for what you are getting into..
in short we have a closed deck not opened like honda(which is much much weaker) so no sleeving will be required

as for the o-ring...for 25psi u really shouldnt need it but its not a bad precaution..a good head gasket should be fine

the prs4 is a great buy however i have not heard much about it tuning/performance/reliability wise. if all else fails go with haltech ex6(probably most recommended/used)

dmitry i meant unless he likes to daily drive redlining the gears like an idiot instead of using normal shift points and saving it for the track

 

Thanks for that last post, good info. I figured that sleeving wouldn't be necessary as I do have a closed deck (just found out when looking at jonGTR's setup lol). I don't think I will o-ring it, but ya never know. You have a point about the prs, and tim is not really keeping in contact with me. How much is the haltech? I know it has more features than the prs. And what about the tranny, will I have to build it to withstand the power (other than a quaife lsd?). Also, what should I do for headwork, I am looking at getting oversized ferrea valves and higher pressure springs so I can rev to 8000. How much porting should I do and how many cfm should I want to make it flow (will probably send it out to get that done). Thanks everyone. cool.gif

 

I do not know what the haltech is going for right now, but i'd say about 1200 or a lil more, but it will be worth every cent.

since your going for everyday driving i'd look into a stronger 5th gear..ours sucks(well the whole tranny does) try swapping for a newer elantra/tib 5speed they are built much better and arent geared so aggressively..

the diff you may want to do some thinking about..the quaiffe is great but is only a torque biasing diff which means if u break an axle or anything like that you will not be moving, but with a clutch type like m&tec or kaaz you will still have at least 1 wheel driving..then there is the tight turning grinding you hear with the clutch type diffs and the discs must be replaced sooner than a quaiffe would need service, plus its oil needs to be changed a lot (every 4000 miles)

the valvetrain...definately go with ferrea..vales, springs, guides, retainers, are all you really need, the other stock peices will do just fine.

port work..do not just go for cfm concentrate on the flow path/efficiency, because if you port too big your screwed and lose your entire bottom end powerband...i would reccommend for the heada stage 2 out of 3, or 3 out of 5, all depends on the machine shop, but they will be able to help u much more than me..and get the airram intake manifold the stocker will max out flow around 300whp

but overall u can find anything by just using the search button

 

I already have the airram and a 65mm TB installed. Should I bore them out to 70 when I do this? I was looking at a book that I bought in the section about head work, and they made it a point to give the air the straightest flow path to the valve as possible. What year tib or elantra trans could I use? Do the newer trannies (like 04) work too? I am looking to get the engine and trans soon. Will I have to do new ignition coils with the haltech? Like msd? Thanks again.