'treezy

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lilo shark

that's not bad i'm hoping to go tommorow to the tracks. hoping to hit low 15's.

tdonnell

Yup.

Trust me, the only possible time the car could be missing is at idle. It runs very smooth off idle all the way to redline.

Just reset the computer tonight, I am going to wait and see if it comes back on. I will be checking out my plugs tomorrow and testing the resistance of the nology's.

I can tell you all one thing, the car feels MUCH faster tonight than it did yesterday. It is about 60 degrees out and very low humidity. There is no doubt in my mind that with a little better 60' times and a cool, non-humid day I will be 14.8's or lower.

Damn, I gotta get ahold of airborne to get this ecu re-flashed. Has anyone talked to him in the last week?

Or should I just save up and get the haltech e6x? How much does that run btw? I will probably need a standalone with the setup I want (I was planning on getting an ecu from airborne but he seems unreachable lately and i would like the adjustability) right?

faithofadragon

if your gonna go standalone perfect power makes one thats about HALF the price of the haltech unit

jonGTR is runnin one now...

tdonnell

MMmmm, I remember hearing about that. I have a book about engine management systems and the PRS has just as many if not more features than the Haltech from what I can see.

I wonder how well that unit is working out for JonGTR?

JonGTR

I hooked it up and got it to idle and rev, but haven't gotten it to start up everytime reliably. I had to drop the project temporarily to do other things. I'll get back on it soon though.
DMDicks and Tim are running it though.
It's very easy to wire up. Just tap into the stock wires.

tdonnell

Cost?

I reset the ECU last night and the CEL has yet to appear (usually takes a couple of days).

I took out my nology crapwires today. Two of the coil terminals were corroded, and one had slightly broken off and was sitting in the coil outlet. What junk. Tested resistance on them, two came up in spec, the other two came up 10 kilo ohms when they should be under 1 kilo ohm.

I already sent their shitty wires back once to have them repaired, now they have broken again and I am not going to hassle with them anymore. It hurts to take them out of the car because they cost 215. That is what has me so freakin aggrivated. At night I could see small sparks coming from where the ground wires splice out of the main wire. Total crap, I do not recommend them at all.

Took out the silverstone plugs (which looked fine btw, except for the #4 cylinder plug whose top screw on cap was threaded nearly all the way off) too, and put in my NGK V-Powers with stock wires. Now I can put back on the spark plug cover. I kind of like this look better anyway. Are there any wires that you all could recommend that won't be crap like these? Also that might fit under the stock spark plug cover?

Car seems a little faster I suppose, felt just as quick with my 250 lb friend riding as it did with me by myself. But the butt dyno isn't always accurate, lol.

I am tempted to go to the track again today but the weather isn't really that much better so it would probably be a waste of money.

Thanks for any help guys. smile.gif

zoned019

Didn't OP run a damn 15.1 with i/h/e, was he lying, his car some sort of freak, or was he just a damn good driver...?

hamhead

Ye, OP Ran 15.1 with those supposedly. He had slips from Capitol, so unless he found them online with a 15.1 on a FWD car that raced where he goes, then I dunno.

I ran 15.5 with I/E. cool.gif Car doesn't feel too much faster after H/BBTB/Air-Ram though.... maybe a flat 15 on a good day.

zoned019

Although, he also had some really lightweight rims (forged rotas I believe?), would those be able to make a dramatic difference on your time?