14.6 man, very nice. Keep it up.

 

I do not have any goals set other than to make the car much more fun to drive then Hyundai did, and make it just as reliable with daily driver civility (all factory options kept functional). I'd like to get 145 WHP in each Tibby, which I think should be pretty easy/realiastic to obtain. If I don't no biggie.

Yeah I just checked my codes again to find out what they exactly are.

P0131 O2 circuit low voltage, Bank 1 Sensor 1
PO135 O2 heater circuit, Bank 1 Sensor 1
PO138 O2 circuit high voltage, Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Usually a low voltage code)
PO141 O2 heater circuit, Bank 1 Sensor 2

I wish I could get rid of these codes!

I'll definately move my O2 sensor to the collector ASAP. I would think any reading in a collector would be far more accurate than a reading from just one cylinder.

 

Thanks redz.

Like I said I would like to get some slicks soon. I have been wondering if I will still only spin the passenger side with the slicks due to the open diff? My highest trap speed of the night was 96.3 mph, good for low 14's so my spinning down low is hurting my times.

I guess I should do the quafe, but I don't want to spend the money you know?

Definately relocate the o2 sensor, won't guarentee it will get rid of your codes, but it should run better.

Check to make sure you wired up the o2's correctly when you extended them.

As you read I hit 151 without the headwork, I would think now I am around 160-165 whp. I have the cams timed a bit different from before and I have more torque (it feels that way anyway), so maybe 135-140 lb. ft. of torque.

I need to get back there and see where I am at, but I am really focused on getting out of credit card debt. A couple more months and I am free! LOL.

 

Yeah, My cars only have 60mm BBTB, 4-2-1 headers, 2.25-inch mandrel bent exhaust, factory cams, factory cam gears & timing though.

I wonder if they are even around 140 HP... I wish the closest dyno wasn't 3+ hours away. 02.gif

 

New numbers!!!

155.8 hp and 137.4 torque.

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...06/Dyno2003.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...06/Dyno2002.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...06/Dyno2001.jpg

Don't ask about the a/f, the normal dyno tech wasn't there and this guy couldn't figure out how to change the values, I should be getting an updated sheet.

Anyway, power mods are the headwork, port and polish, .5mm oversized valves, and I just ran and under-axle exhaust in place of the shtty crush bent 2.5 piping.

Gained 4 hp and 11 ft lbs of torque.

Did the pulls in 4th gear just like last time and on the same dyno so the gains are real, temperature was about the same as well.

I just sent my spare 1.8 ecu out to florida to get the rev-limiter raised and I will see what happens when I get it back.

 

Better and better man. Good numbers, but A/F is what's killing us all right now N/A. I've got some stuff coming, through some R&D sources, be patient, and we'll see if we can't get those numbers up that extra 20 or so.

LOL

Keep it up mang!

 

You mean too rich or too lean?

I have been having problems running too rich. Even with everything I still have to pull fuel away.

This is why I am looking forward to the 1.8 ECU with the higher redline.

What is the highest I could take her without float? 7300?

Thanks.

 

Hey T, very good job man...

don't forget your biggest problem with the rev limiter on the 2.0 is not valve float... but cilynder wall pressure... our long strokes and rods are not friendly to high rpm range...

 

Yah running rich robs horsepower which is what redz is refferring to. If you leaned it out youd see even more power.

But thats still solid man, thats about 182hp & 161ft*lbs to the crank. Not bad for a 2.0L four cylinder, with a 6750 rpm redline.

And the higher redline with the new ECU will definatly squeeze some more power out of that band, the curve is still before its peak fing02.gif

 

I was talking about richness of course.