<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (JonGTR @ Nov 1 2007, 08:50 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>I'm not saying it's a bad setup, but I'd rather pay $100 more and still only have one rail, 4 injectors, more tuneability, and a cleaner engine bay.</div>

Cleaner engine bay??? I have to disagree here, the dual rail setup that Denisst99 makes is everything but messy! Looks even better than the original fuel rail Hyundai makes. Plus, you've got to love having the original fuel economy when you're driving around town or on long trips. As soon as you hit the pedal the power is all there and you can't even feel the extra injectors going into action. I've personnaly haven't had any problems what so ever tuning the car as well. I might still be boosting only 10-12 psi on my T3 super 60, but even when the engine is going to be rebuilt this winter with low compression pistons and forged rods I intend to keep the same management setup. Hell! even if I end up with a GT30 I'll still be running my spacer setup cool.gif

But I agree it's not the <u>only</u> way to manage a turbo setup, but on of the best for me. The results speak for themself as we can see... fing02.gif

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Pascoile @ Nov 1 2007, 09:04 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Cleaner engine bay??? I have to disagree here, the dual rail setup that Denisst99 makes is everything but messy! Looks even better than the original fuel rail Hyundai makes.</div>
I had someone build my fuel rail for about $100 which looks 10x's better than anything I've seen on a Hyundai board. I have a regulator attached to the end which you can't do with a stock rail.
What can be more cleaner than only four injectors and a regulator on the end? Certainly NOT 8 injectors, two rails, multiple fuel lines, and a regulator mounted on the firewall, etc.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Plus, you've got to love having the original fuel economy when you're driving around town or on long trips.</div>
This is EXACTLY what I just told Socks not to ASSume. Since when does a standalone not allow you to get the same fuel economy as stock? If you're not getting the same MPG, then you're tuning it wrong. I'm getting the same MPG before and after the standalone.


Again, I'm not knocking the setup. But don't go making assumptions about a setup you don't have. I don't have the dual rail setup, but I've seen pics of it, which is why I can only comment on the clutter and install aspects, but never on the tuneability of it. I don't have experience tuning it, so I'm not gonna make off the wall accusations about it like you guys do about standalones.

 

Lets try not to steer off topic. There are plenty of topics and debates on tunning options smile.gif

 

You should be in the 11's denis, with that kind of a trap. I went 12.8 @ 112 with a 2.17 60' two nights ago. So you must be spinning your ass off to only go .2 faster with another 8 mph!!

What were your 60' times like? If they are not in the high 1 second range, you can do much better. Every tenth in the 60' is two tenths in the quarter.

What are your engine specs? Still completely stock? How much boost and what size turbo, etc. etc. I am wondering if I want to turn up the boost a bit more on my setup. I was thinking 16 psi. I can use your setup to judge roughly what I can do you know?

 

60 foot time were "horrible" in the 2.15 2.2 range

yup major wheel spin,still got some learning to do or lower the boost in first gear

indeed i think i can do low 12's on the actual set up with out more boost
but remember my car is ligther (it helps running an econo box)

base boost around 12 psi creeping up to 15-16 near redline (7200)
stock bottom end, a bit of head work,crower cams dialed in,air ram manifold
turbo is the good old super 60
can wait to try the new engine and turbo,.....

 

^^^
what clutch were you using though? did you change it now with the new setup?

 

What are you guys doing for timing? Plugs? Gap?

 

clutch wise i'm running an ACT pressure plate and their 4 pucks sprung disc
plug wise bkr7e NGK's gapped at 0.035"
spark is a tad amplified with the MSD dis-2
timing wise, it's left untouched,the turbo box side effect (if we can cal lit that way) while puttinmg the ecu in open loop makes it also deliver a decent smooth timing curve

 

Have you tried around 17psi? I've tried all kinds of gaps with my BKR7e's and I also have the MSD DIS4, but I keep getting spark blowout hardcore. No matter what gap I use, it doesn't work. I figured the MSD would help, but I can disconnect it and it doesn't get any worse or better.
I was thinking of switching to regular plugs and maybe getting some better coils.

 

Did you check your plugs and see if there is any oil? maybe that is the cause of blowing out, how is your pcv setup?