(1) Why do you want to use the 6ohm version? It'd be better to use the 2 or 4ohm.
(2)Why are you using coax?The stage height and soud q overall will suck.
(3)You idea for an enclosure sounds like it should be okay.Putting an angle on the sub may not matter much if you keep it xovered at below 200hz.Since you are going to use one sub on the right, it should work out fine with upper bass being generated from the doors.The main thing that effects imaging as far as low end is upper bass/low end of the mid range.Below that I don't think it matters much.

Why not use 2 6W0's in the same location and internal volume?You'd have more air being moved with 2 of them rather then 1 8".

 

Answers
1.) It was the only one i could find on ebay. money is an issue for me right now, just dropped more than 1k for service and upgrades and my clutch is about to go, and thats another 500 not including installation. a small 2 cannel amp bridged to a 12 ohm load (or "stereo" to two 6ohm) should give just about optimum power to it.

2.) the are semi coax, coax as far as how they mount, but they have seperate jl x-overs, with both tweeter and midrange level controls and the tweeters are aimable (they swivel) I wish i could have gone w/ the 653's but they are just too expensive for me right now.

your idea about 2 6w0's is good and i had thought about that, but $$$$..... :-( and the auction for the 8w3 should end tonight, and i don't have a legitamate reason to back out ( will be less than 100 shipped, if i win, if not then i may just end up going w/ the 2 6w0's, i don't have my heart set on the 8w3, but at the time yesterday,and even still today it just makes more sense to me)

 

Actually, you will not have maximum power xfer to the sub.If you wire the coils in series for 12 ohm total,and bridge it, the amp will actually see a 6 ohm load.Normally when the amp is bridged with a 4 ohm load ( which is max for most amps,bridged),the amp will actually see a 2 ohm load.So,basically with your set up the amp will deliver about 3 times less the power it would with a 4 ohm bridged load.I don't think you'll be happy with this.



Bi-ampable and swivel tweets ain't going to matter when they are placed that low in the door.I know you don't have the money for better,but I'm just telling you anyway.




6W0's aren't that expensive.They're like $70 or $75 each.I know you don't have the money for better stuff.Problem is,I think you will put in all this stuff then not be happy and rip it all out and start over after a period of time.Then you will end up spending more money.It's probably better if you waited until you have more money for a better set up.Do it right the first time.

 

I fully agree about doing thing right the first time around, other than the sony amps, i've been slowly buying and planning my system for about 2 years. This car is a daily driver, and will remain that way (at least for the next 2 or 3 years, plus i have the body damage already mentioned, hopefully that will be taken care of by next spring). I'm not going to compete, but because i spend 25 or more hours a week in my car, i do want quality. and the lack of front bass is drving me crazy right now. the rest of the imaging and soundstaging sounds pretty good (at least to me, and i'm the only one who matters)

Now this came from crutchfield, and sounds correct. I asked them how much power i'd get from my 150x2 sony amp going to my 12w6.
They told me i'd get about 110 watts per coil. thats about 73% of the rated 4ohm power, i can live w/ that being that its going to a w6, and i have heard a 10w6 getting roughly this amount of power.

Now following that same math w/ the 8w3v2 dual 6ohm, running 75w (4ohms) to each 6 ohm coil would yield about 55w's each, so 110 watts to the 8w3. and i could always get a slightly higher (80 or 85w) powered amp. (116w and 124w respectively)

Now lets look at the power situation. Keep in mind i will be able to control all volume levels (except front sub) from my headunit.
front : jl 650cxi's getting 60w rms each
f. Sub : getting about 110w rms ( i think even if its as low as 75 or 80w rms total i'd be happy w/ it)
Rear : jl 650cxi's getting 60w rms each
Sub : getting roughly 220w rms

Right now i'm really just trying to get all the planning done, i've got everthing i need except power and patch cables and speaker wire.

I work for a painting/remodeling company and we also have a cabinet making shop, i've got my box already designed for my 12w6 and two amps. One of our carpenters will build it for me (its nice being able to pay for labor w/ beer ) there are a couple of restrictions i put on the size weight being #1, keeping my cargo net being #2 (but i can work w/ that) and #3 being access to the spare, and as far as height goes keeping my rear strut bar and the cargo cover in place.

 

Cool.Sounds like you did your homework and everything is planned.


EDIT..............Let me suggest one thing,though.Before you have me or any one else build a kick pod,have one of your buddies build you a simple box with .3cuft.Set it in the passenger foot well and see how it sounds with that amount of power,etc.

 

good idea, i will do that, can prob just use scraps from the shop.

 

If anyone needs help building pods similar to mine, let me know and I'll walk you threw it.