Who???? Right now I have subwoofers mounted in my door panels.JL 6W0's.Once I get my soundstage complete with center ch and surround, I will do a JL 8W7 in the trunk for the ultra low bass.I don't want to go into details about my enclosure design, but the sub will either fire downward or toward the rear.

 

Just out of curiosity.. why towards the rear? I thought bass was omnidirectional?

 

yes it is pretty much omnidirectional, but for best SQ you want to have the longest path length possible due to the lower bass have a long wavelength. thats why you almost always see subs firing to the rear, or sitting as far towards the rear as possible and firing forward AND usually UP (to bounce off the headliner then the windshield before getting to your ears)

MADTIB, you keepin those 6w0's once you get your other sub done??? If not i'd like ONE of them, i will take both off you hands if you don't want to sell seperately.

OR do you know of anywhere that still sells them?? i can't seem to find any.

 

I wouldn't give up my 6W0's if you paid me, then paid me again!!!!!!! No,I'm using both.The 6Wo's up front are for 31.5Hz to 200Hz.Then I will use the 8W7 for freq's below 31.5Hz.

Any place that sells JL should be able to order them for you.Alot of places don't normally stock'em.


EDIT.....................Bass isn't too omni directional once you get to around 60Hz and climb up from there. Mid/ upper bass looses the omni directional characteristics because they become more efficient as they increase.This is the one major reason why having a rear mounted sub playing mid bass can easily give away it's location.

 

MadTib..

i've been wondering.. how do ppl get that shine when they do fiberglass? Is it a gelcoat? Or can you just fiberglass, sand, body filler to smooth it out, prime and paint?

Can you explain gel coating if that is 100% necessary?

And can you explain other ways one could finish fiberglassing?

thanks man smile.gif

 

glass, sand, a filling type of primer, paint, lots of clear coat, wetsand clear coat with 2000 grit sandpaper, use a polishing compound and polisher to shine it up.

 

BigBoi,

I'm not 100% sure,but I think usually when you see custom painted installs that are super shiny are using gel coat.Gel coat is basically like fiberglass resin,but much more hard when it dries.You also use the same MEK hardner.I've only worked with gel coat a very little bit,so far.When you apply it, what ever you do,don't put it on over top of paint!! I found that out real quick.The gel coat resin will eat the paint and also displace it.You must use Gel first,then paint.When you put it on, you should use a small sprayer or you can brush it on with those foam paint brushes.You know what I'm talking about?? But don't use the EL Cheapo's.They fall apart real easy.Once you have the gel coat in place you need to apply a thin layer of PVA mold release.The PVA allows the gel coat to completely cure.Other wise it will be fairly tacky all the time.

You can also just prep the fiberglass real well, and seal/primer and paint.It'll still come out pretty shinny.I have to say,though,I HATE preping for paint!!!!!!!!!! It's the worst PITA in the world.After the last project I did,my bro and I vowed never again to paint large projects.If we want something large scale painted, we'll take it to a body shop.

Anywho............. generally what I do is sand the fiberglass,a little with 80 or 120 grit.Then,I look for bubbles that I couldn't avoid when laying up.Take the dreamel and pop that stuff out, and fill in with Ultra-Glass.This stuff is da bomb!!! Ultra -Glass is the name Dynatron uses.It's bondo with finely milled FG.This stuff is at least 3 times the strength of normal bondo.It's great to use for re-einforcment and different things that need high strength.

Once that's done, then I use Bondo to create whatever contours and shapes I want.Next, apply (hopefully) a thin layer of Bondo.Sand it down with 120grit.Look for pin-holes.Pop'em out and fill in again.Sand with 220grit, and keep making sure there are no more pin holes.At that point I clean it all up and start applying primer.Three coats or so.Then,wet sand with 600 or 800 grit.Clean.Apply more primer.If there are still scratches,then sand again.If not,then sand with 1000 or 1500grit.Clean.Ready for paint.

Like I said,PITA!!! I figured out a way to use vinyl to cover complex contours and shapes, so I'll be re-doing my door panels soon. :roll:

Here's a pic of my door panel paint job:

 

GOD DAMN, that looks fvcking TIGHT.

well i ended up bidding on a 8w3v2 d6 on ebay, if i don't win that, i'll go by my local jl dealer and see about a 6w0 (8w3v2 uses a fairly small sealed enclosure, can anybody say KICKPANEL???) laugh.gif

 

cool guys.. thanks.. just didnt want to use gelcoat if i didnt have to. I think i will just do the other routine... sand, filler, sand, prime,paint.

I'll post pics when i have it all done.. i'm redoing my whole system

 

The 6W0 also requires a sealed or ported enclosure.My door pods are sealed enclosures. 8)


EDITJust noticed...............you are from Rockville.I'm from Largo!! I used to work in Rockville.If you want, sometime we could hook up and talk stereo.