Tibby01 will have an answer but I agree with the resistor thingie. Put one on and see if it helps.

 

Wow, nice replies so far, Ive been taking pics to add above and cleaning up my hard disk because photochop is saying my swap disk is full (Doh).

Kit: No, I did not reset my ecu. No need for this kind of mod, for it does not impact performance.

Spice: I cleared the color off the back of the guage faces so I could use red for all indicator lights.

Bryce: I do realize that leds run on only 3.7 volts. This is why I brought up the residual power. I did notice that the way the cluster hooks up, it is Supplied the 12 volts (I beleive, I didnt look at it for long) and it illuminates by being grounded (via ecu) when the light should go on. If this is the case, and the ECU uses TTL chips, then it should be digital (on or off). I am not sure if this is how it is set up for sure though.

Hamhead: I did use 470 ohm resistors required for the voltage drop accross the resistor.

Kit: I am hoping Tibby01 replies, because I know that he did this before. Hopefully it is something small I overlooked.

x7xstring: No kinda about it mang, I did disconnect it each time. As Kit pointed out, part of my post states that with my second cluster (regular bulb) the airbag does go out. I also saw it dim down a little bit with the leds (as if to turn off).

I think that covers the posts so far tongue.gif

 

i have to say, you got me stumped. did you try switching the polarity of the led? those particular indicators might work on a switching polarity.

i get the dim CEL too, but with blue, you gotta get REALLY close to see it. putting an extra low impedance resistor somewhere on the circuit would help get rid of the dim light, and you would still be able to tell when it goes on.

 

I was thinking it might use a switching polarity, but it dosent make sense. The power supply for both the Gas and the Check Engine come from the same source. I can try switching it. The Gas light will definitally be off, but do I really wanna test if it works this way bigeyes2.gif ?

I might add a higher ohm resistor for the check engine. Its not bad, but I do notice it.

Did you have a problem with the Air Bag light when you added a LED? If you watch it, it does get a little dimmer.

^^^ I added pics to my first post. They kinda suck, but I bet you know how hard it is to take a pic of the cluster, huh Tibby01 wink1.gif .

 

I'd try a higher resistence value.Maybe 1K ohm.The fact that the LEDs are dimmly lit sounds to me like they are receiving just enough voltage to turn on.If I remember right, LEDs only need about 1.4Vdc.At that small amount of voltage, the will be dim.


Another thought................Have you noticed if the LEDs end up turnning off completely after a couple minutes? I'm wondering if there is a capacitor in the circuit that is taking time to discharge.

 

I will try different resistors this weekend. That might resolve my check engine and my Air Bag lights, but the fuel light still has me stumped. Time to break out webtech and try to trace the wires tongue.gif I would think about using a multi-meter on the terminals to find the exact readings, but I dont know if I wanna connect the batt with the cluster out.

Also, the lights do not go out over time. I drove a good 30 mins to test it out. They all stayed the same.

 

you can connect the battery with the cluster out. ive done it a million times. then just take it to hyundai service for something else, and they will get rid of the airbag light(had it happen twice now at my dealer). i think that as long as you dont open your door with the cluster out, your airbag light will be good.

i would try to take off ground for the fuel light while the battery is connected. its ground 1 on webtech...



and there definately arent any capacitors for that.

i think the airbag light is along the same problem as the fuel light, because when i took mine into the dealer and they got rid of the airbag light, it went completely off.

try taking off the ground for the airbag control module(which controls the indicator)....



only things i can think of to troubleshoot. did you do anything else to the car at the same time? you may also want to check the circuit paper thing on the back, to make sure nothing foriegn is causing this.

 

I might just throw bigger resistors in for all three and see if that works.

That is the least of my problems right now. I found some other issues that I need to address. The odometer stopped so I took the cluster out again. There was some solder in the way of one of the dials. I moved it a little but I want to take the odometer back off and move that solder joint way out of the way. The odometer works again for now.

I had my lights on full blast driving today just to test it out. Well, after about 20-30 mins of driving, I had smoke comming up from behind my cluster. I took it BACK out and saw that the lines on the printed circuit for the backlighting started to melt. Looks like I am hard wiring it right from the leads comming out of the bulb hole directly to the wiring harness and I am eliminating the printed circuit. I didnt trace the printed circuit far enough so I didnt realize that there were some thin spots. Now I know smile.gif.

Back to your response tibby, what will removing the grounding wires for the fuel and airbag do for me? I cant see it 'resetting' anything for the fuel. Also, I am hesitant on removing the grounding wire on the air bag module. I hate messin with that crap because its supposed to be so 'sensitive' (even tho most ppl say the bags never go off).

 

It's succeed.
Schooled.

 

Wow Casper your gauges look exactly like mine. I ended up taking out the fuel light because the damn thing will never go out. As for the CEL it is on dimly on and off. It never stays dim for very long before going out completly.

I guess those are the AOS gauges?

As for the Airbag yours should be good. When it is on it is ON. I took my stuff apart with the door open and all and the light was definatly on all the time. Probably seeing the same thing as with the CEL.

Behind the needles did you do custom LED's or are you using large 194 and 73/74 bulbs back there?