Ok, WTF!!! Urgent!
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I have a quick suggestion to what I think is your problem. There is a company called XTC that makes foam speaker baffles. These baffles will isolate your speakers from touching anything behind them. Also like Dan said it sounds like either the wire terminals or wire itself is shorting out. First check the wire itself to make sure there are no cuts in it. Second, if the first one is ok then you can completely wrap the terminals in electrical tape.
I feel pretty strongly that what is happening is that the terminals are grounding out or the wire. Try those things out and let us know the results.
I feel pretty strongly that what is happening is that the terminals are grounding out or the wire. Try those things out and let us know the results.
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Dan I am sorry I took it the wrong way so I am sorry but sometimes wiring speakers out of phase will cause them not to work it causes an internal short sometimes in the radio amp or external amp I should have clearified what I meant. Now as far as the sparks go try to and do it easily bend the connection plate down towards the magnet it seems to me that the metal of the connection plate is causing a double ground when you are screwing them back in causing the spark and the no play coming from the speakers. If you are afraid to try to bend it electrical tape the beJesus out of the connection this will ensure nothing is touching the speaker basket or the metal of the car try that and let me know how it turns out. Dan again sorry smile.gif
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ok... do I tape the back of the speaker itself, ooor do I tape the "connection" if I tape the connection, that'll be a bitch.. and when I hook up the speakers, can the speaker wires only touch the copper wire on the stock speaker, or does it have to touch the back where the copper wires are connected?
~Drew
~Drew
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J99: No problem. 
W: Uh... Okay, there will be speaker contacts, kind of like quick-disconnects (AKA spade terminals) on the speaker, that the copper wires from the voice coil connect to. Those should connect to the speaker wire, and ONLY the speaker wire. They should not connect to each other, except through the voice coil (Which they will.)
For taping... The idea is to prevent any unwanted electrical contact. I'd be breaking out the ohmmeter anyway with the problem you're having, but I've already recommended that... smile.gif If the speakers WORK when they're not bolted to the frame, then you want to insulate in between the frame and the speaker basket. For this, you cannot use metal screws/bolts to hold it down, or you've just created a path to ground. This is a BAD THING -- Of course if the speaker basket is causing that kind of problem, I'd turf the speakers, too, but not knowing the exact nature of the problem, it's hard to tell.
Now, I'm getting VERY confused by the stuff you're saying... The STOCK speakers are shorting out? WTF are you connecting to the stock speakers anyway? I thought you were installing a set of Alpine 6X9s
I think you should go back up a few posts, and describe EXACTLY what is connected to what and where, so that we can figure this thing out.
From the above, I am surmising that the stock deck ios powering the stock speakers. You have "wires" attatched to the stock speakers... Are these being used as inputs to the amplifier? Or are you putting subwoofers in parallel with your stock speakers? Note that IMO, putting things in parallel with the stock speakers is a BAD IDEA. Having anything in the circuit in parallel with the stock speakers will lower the impedance on the deck below what the internal amplifier can handle (I've said this before...)
For the sake of argument, I'll assume that the amplifier input is attatched in parallel. Most "speaker level" amplifier inputs are preset to provide 4 ohms resistance. Your stock speakers will also present 4 ohms impedance. Ohms law for parallel circuits (R = 1/(1/R1 + 1/R2) = 2 ohms final impedance.) 2 Ohms will cause the stock deck to be unstable. Some amplifiers have high level inputs that are designed to be used this way, and the high level input is several kOhms. Using ohms law, as above you get close enough to 4 ohms as to not make a difference. These amplifiers are not common and usually not cheap. Or, in some cases they are cheap. Real cheap. Disgusting bargain basement junk that you're really better off without.
I'm still curious as to how you're running other things, like the remote turn-on lead to the amplifier, and some other stuff, too. All these could be signifigant...
Hey, here's a thought...
You say that nothing is connected at the other end of the wires attatched to the speaker. Does that mean that the amp is disconnected? Or does that mean that there are no speakers connected to the amp? If the wires are indeed connected to "nothing" -- can you verify that? Check the resistance between the 2 leads that you have connected to your speaker. It should be infinite resistance. It should also be infinite resistance between either of the speaker wire leadsand the vehicle chassis. If there is continuity (short circuit) between the 2 leads, and/or either lead and ground, the wire is pinched, cut, or otherwise compromised, and will need to be replaced. Note that you don't really need an ohmmeter, a test lamp can be used to do this. If there is NO short circuit in the wire, there is no reason for the stock head unit to stop powering the speakers. Other than some insignifigant parasitic capacitance, connecting extra lengths of wire should have absolutely no effect on the ability of an amplifier to drive a speaker. Therefore there is something affecting the load, or shorting to ground about that speaker.
Anyway, give us the long description. What's it goig to harm, it'll take another day to get it going? wink.gif
W: Uh... Okay, there will be speaker contacts, kind of like quick-disconnects (AKA spade terminals) on the speaker, that the copper wires from the voice coil connect to. Those should connect to the speaker wire, and ONLY the speaker wire. They should not connect to each other, except through the voice coil (Which they will.)
For taping... The idea is to prevent any unwanted electrical contact. I'd be breaking out the ohmmeter anyway with the problem you're having, but I've already recommended that... smile.gif If the speakers WORK when they're not bolted to the frame, then you want to insulate in between the frame and the speaker basket. For this, you cannot use metal screws/bolts to hold it down, or you've just created a path to ground. This is a BAD THING -- Of course if the speaker basket is causing that kind of problem, I'd turf the speakers, too, but not knowing the exact nature of the problem, it's hard to tell.
Now, I'm getting VERY confused by the stuff you're saying... The STOCK speakers are shorting out? WTF are you connecting to the stock speakers anyway? I thought you were installing a set of Alpine 6X9s
I think you should go back up a few posts, and describe EXACTLY what is connected to what and where, so that we can figure this thing out.QUOTE
Originally posted by WhoopOi:
The factory speakers will not work... I unhooked the system, but left the wires attatched to the stock speakers to see if it as the system... nope... so I dug back to get my speakers... and took off the wires I had attatched to them... holy sh*t it works when there are no wires attatched to my stock speakers.... GRRRR
The factory speakers will not work... I unhooked the system, but left the wires attatched to the stock speakers to see if it as the system... nope... so I dug back to get my speakers... and took off the wires I had attatched to them... holy sh*t it works when there are no wires attatched to my stock speakers.... GRRRR
From the above, I am surmising that the stock deck ios powering the stock speakers. You have "wires" attatched to the stock speakers... Are these being used as inputs to the amplifier? Or are you putting subwoofers in parallel with your stock speakers? Note that IMO, putting things in parallel with the stock speakers is a BAD IDEA. Having anything in the circuit in parallel with the stock speakers will lower the impedance on the deck below what the internal amplifier can handle (I've said this before...)
For the sake of argument, I'll assume that the amplifier input is attatched in parallel. Most "speaker level" amplifier inputs are preset to provide 4 ohms resistance. Your stock speakers will also present 4 ohms impedance. Ohms law for parallel circuits (R = 1/(1/R1 + 1/R2) = 2 ohms final impedance.) 2 Ohms will cause the stock deck to be unstable. Some amplifiers have high level inputs that are designed to be used this way, and the high level input is several kOhms. Using ohms law, as above you get close enough to 4 ohms as to not make a difference. These amplifiers are not common and usually not cheap. Or, in some cases they are cheap. Real cheap. Disgusting bargain basement junk that you're really better off without.
I'm still curious as to how you're running other things, like the remote turn-on lead to the amplifier, and some other stuff, too. All these could be signifigant...
Hey, here's a thought...
You say that nothing is connected at the other end of the wires attatched to the speaker. Does that mean that the amp is disconnected? Or does that mean that there are no speakers connected to the amp? If the wires are indeed connected to "nothing" -- can you verify that? Check the resistance between the 2 leads that you have connected to your speaker. It should be infinite resistance. It should also be infinite resistance between either of the speaker wire leadsand the vehicle chassis. If there is continuity (short circuit) between the 2 leads, and/or either lead and ground, the wire is pinched, cut, or otherwise compromised, and will need to be replaced. Note that you don't really need an ohmmeter, a test lamp can be used to do this. If there is NO short circuit in the wire, there is no reason for the stock head unit to stop powering the speakers. Other than some insignifigant parasitic capacitance, connecting extra lengths of wire should have absolutely no effect on the ability of an amplifier to drive a speaker. Therefore there is something affecting the load, or shorting to ground about that speaker.
Anyway, give us the long description. What's it goig to harm, it'll take another day to get it going? wink.gif
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No... I'm putting in 3 12inch subs... but I'm running them from he amp, which is connected to my stock speakers, the high/low way... but my stock speakers short out, once I attach the wires to the back of my speakers.... get me yet?
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Yeah, I get it.
You say the wires are connected to nothing. I don't buy it. They're connected to something. Disconnect the wires from EVERYTHING. Check for continuity to ground. Check for continuity between leads.
Why aren't you just tapping into the stock speaker WIRES anyway? Connecting stuff to the spider leads is far more potentially harmful...
[ October 11, 2001: Message edited by: Dan ]
You say the wires are connected to nothing. I don't buy it. They're connected to something. Disconnect the wires from EVERYTHING. Check for continuity to ground. Check for continuity between leads.
Why aren't you just tapping into the stock speaker WIRES anyway? Connecting stuff to the spider leads is far more potentially harmful...
[ October 11, 2001: Message edited by: Dan ]
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From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
QUOTE
Originally posted by WhoopOi:
No.... the other side of the wires.. are connected to.. like I said... nothing. I'm sooo dead serious.. they arent connected anywhere, just freely laying in my trunk...
No.... the other side of the wires.. are connected to.. like I said... nothing. I'm sooo dead serious.. they arent connected anywhere, just freely laying in my trunk...
Electrical tape up the "other" end of those wires untill you are ready for them. if those two touch...that could be the cause of your problems.
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You asked about where to connect the wires in another post to the termianls or the wire itself, ONLY the terminals.
Honsetly and not trying to be rude but if you are having this much trouble why don't you take to a shop to someone that knows what they are doing. You are doing some of the most basic stuff that you can do and having WAY to many problems. I also think it is something very simple that a professional could point right out to you.
Honsetly and not trying to be rude but if you are having this much trouble why don't you take to a shop to someone that knows what they are doing. You are doing some of the most basic stuff that you can do and having WAY to many problems. I also think it is something very simple that a professional could point right out to you.
