Ok, WTF!!! Urgent!
alright, so what should I do to "insulate" it? smile.gif tape up the basket? I was wondering where ya lived because I know a Meadville a good 30 mins from my house, but you're a good 7 hours. smile.gif My friend goes to Penn State Erie Campus. Oh well... lemme know how to fix it.
Why tape up the basket, and not the WIRE, which is the source of the problem?
Both of these would have identified a short to the speaker basket, if you measured it while the basket was in place. I thought that it would make sense to check the fault in the state that it's happening at.
And, for the record, I still don't understand why you're connecting to the spider leads, and not to the speaker wires.
Insulate the speaker wire, using electrical tape, so that it cannot contact the basket. The extra mass where you connect to the spider leads may be weighing down the speaker leads so that they contact the basket. Connect to the speaker wires. Really. If you don't want to damage the factory speaker wires, try something like this:
Using common spade terminals, this can be done, hooking up the amp in parallel with the speaker. Note that this is still a bad idea if your amplifier high level input is 4 ohms.
If the resistance of this circuit is too low, try:
This will not work well, if the amplifier high level input is also high resistance, but it will work better if the amplifier input is low resistance. If the resistance on the circuit is too low, the amplifier may drive it, but at the cost of a reduced lifespan and increased distortion.
[ October 15, 2001: Message edited by: Dan ]
QUOTE
Originally posted by Dan:
For taping... The idea is to prevent any unwanted electrical contact. I'd be breaking out the ohmmeter anyway with the problem you're having, but I've already recommended that... If the speakers WORK when they're not bolted to the frame, then you want to insulate in between the frame and the speaker basket. For this, you cannot use metal screws/bolts to hold it down, or you've just created a path to ground.
For taping... The idea is to prevent any unwanted electrical contact. I'd be breaking out the ohmmeter anyway with the problem you're having, but I've already recommended that... If the speakers WORK when they're not bolted to the frame, then you want to insulate in between the frame and the speaker basket. For this, you cannot use metal screws/bolts to hold it down, or you've just created a path to ground.
QUOTE
Originally posted by Dan:
You say the wires are connected to nothing. I don't buy it. They're connected to something. Disconnect the wires from EVERYTHING. Check for continuity to ground. Check for continuity between leads.
You say the wires are connected to nothing. I don't buy it. They're connected to something. Disconnect the wires from EVERYTHING. Check for continuity to ground. Check for continuity between leads.
Both of these would have identified a short to the speaker basket, if you measured it while the basket was in place. I thought that it would make sense to check the fault in the state that it's happening at.
And, for the record, I still don't understand why you're connecting to the spider leads, and not to the speaker wires.
Insulate the speaker wire, using electrical tape, so that it cannot contact the basket. The extra mass where you connect to the spider leads may be weighing down the speaker leads so that they contact the basket. Connect to the speaker wires. Really. If you don't want to damage the factory speaker wires, try something like this:
Using common spade terminals, this can be done, hooking up the amp in parallel with the speaker. Note that this is still a bad idea if your amplifier high level input is 4 ohms.
If the resistance of this circuit is too low, try:
This will not work well, if the amplifier high level input is also high resistance, but it will work better if the amplifier input is low resistance. If the resistance on the circuit is too low, the amplifier may drive it, but at the cost of a reduced lifespan and increased distortion.
[ October 15, 2001: Message edited by: Dan ]
LOL, you are just going to confuse the poor guy with all that series and parallel stuff
(ohms law)
if your speaker wires are bare wire, you probably should get some insulated speaker wire to use.
and instead of just twisting the wire around the terminals or spider leads, like dan said, it would be better just to go to Radio shack and pick up 4 quick disconnect speaker terminals, and use those to connect to the speakers.
let me know how it goes, smile.gif
(ohms law)if your speaker wires are bare wire, you probably should get some insulated speaker wire to use.
and instead of just twisting the wire around the terminals or spider leads, like dan said, it would be better just to go to Radio shack and pick up 4 quick disconnect speaker terminals, and use those to connect to the speakers.
let me know how it goes, smile.gif



