I still don't understand why you want to relocate your battery so bad..

Also, I live in Wisconsin, I have two 12's and a 1200w amp in the back of my car, no cap, and just a regular walmart battery, nothing special, and no upgraded wiring. I've never had an issue with cold starts. I don't know why you're so worried about that either....

Why don't you get an optima that will match the color scheme of your car (they're all deep cycle, and all have WAY more cold cranking amps than your stock one) and put it in your engine bay. It would be, as Redzman says, functional rice, lol.

I also would read up on the "big 3" wire upgrade before you do it, few people have had a bad experience, I can't remember but it's something to do with running a second wire to your alternator which had no in-line fuse? I don't remember exactly, just search and read up on it. You might find out it's better and safer for your car if you don't do it. Personally, I would just upgrade the ground points.

And do they even make high output alternators for our cars? Even if they do, it's a waste! It's not like you're running 5 12" subs or something man, your audio setup really isn't that HUGE where you would need a 5 cap, better battery, AND high output alt...don't waste your money.


Bottom line is, get a better battery, a cap, and upgrade all the major ground points on your car and you'll be FINE.

 

the reason i want to move the battery is mainly for looks in the trunk (have alot of "plans" and stuff) and to free up some of the space in the engine bay. I'm not worried about cold starts now. just when/if i move the battery. i have read that cold starts can be a problem if you move your battery.

ive been looking into battery options, and im between an optima (i'd probably get the blue top) and the dry cell ones. i'm still reading up on them so i havent made up my mind on an upgrade for that, but i will be upgrading my battery.

i have been reading up on the big 3 upgrade since i got my car. the problem was that if you just ran a power wire from the alt to the battery, and leaving it un fused you have a lot of potential to ruin your battery. but if you fused it, what the rating would be since you left your stock wire in there with that fuse. again, i'm still reading up on that and looking at what my options would be if i do just the grounds, or find away around that "problem"

and i was wondering the same thing on the higher output alt's. I know my system isnt that big, but i've got 2 12's, 1 15", 3 (maybe 4 amps soon- 1 for each sub and the alpine dolby one) and right now, with the 2 12"s when i have them turned up during the day, i dont have a problem. however, at night you can REALLY tell when the base hits, just by how much the lights dim (headlights and the reverse glow gauges). and i am kind of worried that if it's doing it that bad now, what it's going to be like when i get everything else in my car.

i dont plan on doing everything ive mentioned. i was hoping (and was right) that you guys would give me what would be best. those were just ideas, i was looking for the best combo of them for my car.

so far, i'm definatly getting a cap.
Atleast the grounds will be upgraded, alternator will be later if at all.
Battery is a definate
i'll be running 0 gauge wire to the trunk. (have 4 right now, but that's just for my 1 amp)

keep in mind, this isnt all for performance, some of (most of) it is for show.

 

Good plan. most people don't understand the importance of a cap. it's there to handle the high energy needed quickly by a sterio and recharge just as quickly. a battery is not capable of replacing a cap, even the highest quality battery could not do the job of the lowest quality cap. Caps are the best thing to level your power draw.











They charge alot for those batteries and the only real difference is the heat disipation and quality of construction. They last longer, but how often are you going to not be able to turn your car on to charge the batteries?

 

optimas are dry cell.

i dont know why you want a battery anywhere for looks. i think they are ugly enough in the engine bay.

i have zero gauge running back to my trunk. you can find some pics of it somewhere in here:

http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=11994

 

during competition, there is rule in db drag that you cant turn car on during your drag. thats only one example of how kinetic batterys are better for audio. i'm sure there are more reasons but i dont work at a stereo shop so i'm not gonna pretend like i do. thats just the major reason i know of.

 

oh, i thought all the "sprial cell" was, was just a different form of wet cell, but idk.

and why do i want to move it for looks? i dont know that either lol, but if i did some of my ideas i want to, i would make it look good. and to be honest, it was just an idea. i probably wont do it, and after reading some of your comments there's a 99% chance i wont.

i'm lookin through that thread right now tibby01, but i have a quick question on your sound dedening. did 75sq feet cover just one layer? i dont plan on getting as involved as you did, but i'd like to do most of the car and would like an idea of what i would need. (i'd do everything except i'd leave the dash alone)

 

75 sq. ft would either cover it completely or get really close. chances are you will get tired of doing it and just throw about 60 sqft. in. i still have about 10 left over just cause i got tired of doing it.

 

yeah, i'm thinking the same thing. ill plan on doing the whole thing, but get really sick of doin it after a while and give it to my sister. did you notice a significant drop in road noise? i'm mainly doing it for my stereo, but a drop in road noise would be nice!

 

there was a difference in road noise. at 5am when i start my car up i no longer feel like immediately turning it off. exhaust is much quieter. it translates to wind noise as well.

anyway, we are going off topic so pm me or post in that thread if you need to know more.

 

alright, ill pm you when i get around to doing it if i have any more questions.

Back on topic, i now have a complete list of components that will be in my car when i'm done.

Speakers:
2 6x9 lightning audio (75 watts rms max - no there nothing special, but they were a huge upgrade from the factory ones)

2 6.5 MTX dome axials (65 watts rms)
2 MTX Thunder 4500 10" Dual voice coils - 4 ohms
2 MTX Thunder 6000 12" Single voice coil - 4 ohm
1 MTX Thunder 6000 15" Dual voice coil - 4 ohms


Amps:

2x MTX Thunder 4250d 12v: 250 watts RMS x1 at 4 ohms
1x MTX Thunder 6152 12v: 150 watts RMS bridged at 4 ohms
1x MRA-F350 - 5x50watts RMS at 4 ohms

Head unit= jvc kd-dv6200

Other/Rice:

2 9" LCD screen's mounted into viser's.
Probably lots of led's.
and of course the crossovers and all the other fun stuff in a standard setup.

and that's it...

now, i'm getting an optima battery.
im getting a 5 farad cap
0 gauge wireing going to the trunk, 4 gauge to the 2 4250's and 8 to the other 2.
Upgrading the grounds (havent decided on alternator yet)


now, is how i'm going to be wireing it ok:

in the trunk i'm going to have all 5 subs and 3 amps (dont worry about where and how it willl sound, i've got all that figured out, youll see when i'm done. ill probably end up taking out the rear seats though too) wired in this fashion:


the cap->distribution box (1-3)

1: 4250 amp -> 2 12"s (total of 2 ohms)
2: 4250 amp -> 1 15" (dual 4 ohm= 2 ohms)
3: 6150 amp -> 2 10" Now this is where i'm questioning my thinking. The amp is not 2 ohm stable. so, what if i bridge it for 4 ohms. wire the 2 voice coils in parallel and then wire the 2 speakers in a series to make 4 ohms? will that work. i realize it might not be the best way to do it but i have that amp and those speakers sitting here not doing anything. (going to give them to my sister but they were "to small")

then the other amp will be under the passenger seat, with all the wireing under the carpet.

will that work and will the 5 farad be enough to make it so my lights dont fade at night?