ok, i've done a search and couldnt find anything on my question(s).

Alright, right now i'm running 1 mtx 4250d amp in my car, and already the lights are dimming. I just purchased the next step up, and i know i'm going to be running into problems soon. (i bought an alpine 5 ch amp- MRA-F350 and another mtx amp- 6152. plus a bunch of other stuff that youll see later)

anyway, i have some ideas. Either way, i'm looking at getting atleast a 3 farad cap, maybe 2 if my next quesitons are answered the way i'm thinking.

I also plan on relocating the battery into the trunk, but have heard that cold starts are sometimes difficult and in my area, i cant have that. (yes, i have to drive it in the winter) what if i put a cap in the engine bay? will that help with not only cold starts, but the lights dimming?

or, what if i put a cap in between the battery and amp(s), and one between the battery and the cars electrical system minus the alternator wire.

there probably really simple questions, but i dont know what i'm doing and i'm starting my new job soon (best buy) so i will have some extra money (plus have the employee discount smile.gif ) and want it done right.

 

first of all, relocating your battery will not improve its charge..

also, putting the capacitor in the engine bay is probably the most dangerous/worst idea i've ever heard, sorry, but LOL.

do you know how to install a capacitor man? lol...there's no need for two caps, you could simply buy another cap which is twice the size.

oh, and if you're worried about cold starts, buy a BETTER battery, don't "relocate" your current one. lmao.gif I suggest optima.


hopefully the car install kids at best buy will teach you a little bit...lol. good thing you posted here or you'd be really lost if you went and bought 2 caps and tried to do what you are thinking...

 

ok, i'm not relocating it to improve it's charge, obviously. im not that retarded

I want the battery in the trunk so it's right there for my stereo equipment. I'm not relocating it because i'm worried about cold starts, however i have thought about getting an optima battery. i wouldnt do this and keep the stock one...

and dont just say "lol you dumbass", why would it be a bad idea (cap in engine bay)? explain yourself please so i know for sure why not to do it.

Yes, i know how to install a cap. again,i'm not that retarded. when did i ever say anything about having 2 caps in a series? I would have the battery in the trunk, with 1 cap there for the amps. then off the 0 gauge wire running into the engine bay i was thinking about having another cap in there to help with cold starts. but i didnt do it because i wasnt sure. i never planned on buying 2 caps to have them in a series.

damn...mad.gif

 

well, then why would you want to cap your alternator? LOL.

and putting a capacitor in the engine bay is a bad idea because it will explode under such heat..

i guess i don't know why you're so keen to relocate your battery, there's not really a point to it unless you NEED that space, most people that do it do it because they have huge turbo setups which get in the way, or they make a custom CAI, or something of that nature.

i think the way you presented yourself in the first post was really unclear, and honestly, made you sound like a guy who didn't know what they were doing at ALL.

so..

to fix your cold starts problem: better, bigger battery. relocating the stock one (which is what you're STILL talking about...??) will not help at all, no matter how close to your amp(s).

to fix your light dimming problem, install a big capacitor. that is, it takes the power wire from your amp and has a good solid ground, mount this near your amp in the back.

 

Ok, i'm sorry for being very unclear in my initial post. i just re-read it and yes. i did f' it up alot.

This isnt something that i will be doing in the near future, it's probably going to be a spring project for when i get some money saved up so i can turbo my car and make it a "show car". So those are my 2 reasons for moving it- looks and i would like to have the extra space. and since i am making all custom fiberglassed peices in the trunk, and doing all this stuff i was going to try the battery re-location.

Now, I dont know exactly how much heat a cap can withstand (googled but didnt find anything) so what if i make it's own "isolated" box where the battery was? And i probably would put a voltage regulator after it too just because. So while i would like it to help with cold starts, i guess looks is also another reason. Now, i also said all the wires would be hooked up minus the alt wire, so no the alternator would not be connected to the cap.

Nother thing- I'm not having problems with cold starts. I have just read that if you relocate your battery (assume i have an upgraded one) that cold starts become harder, so i was trying to think of ways around this problem.

The next thing i have a quesiton about is why wouldnt how close the battery is to the source effect it's performance? especially if moving the battery to the back/trunk makes starts harder? yes the starter requires more power, but...

I hope that's a little more clear, and sorry about being an ass in my last post. i read it and knew what i was saying, but when i did re-read it i see what your sayin. (never was good in english)

 

ok, dont even bother with a cap yet.

1st, upgrade the big 3 wires. if you dont know what they are, search!!

2nd, pick up a battery designed for audio set ups, optimas have been great for me, the 1 that failed was replaced for free, and i was even given an upgraded model.

3rd, make sure you have a hella good ground going to your amp.

that will fix 75% of peoples problems, if not.....

4th, upgrade your alternator.

the chances of u actually needing a cap are slim.

 

or you could not waste money on caps and just buy kinetic batterys that are built for audio systems. if you buy nice one you should be able to sit in a parking lot with the car off for HOURS before power becomes a problem.

your local audio spot has them for like 80-200 depending on how serious u want it to be

 

ok: the three wire upgrade i have been looking into doing, i just havent gotten around to it yet, but i know i'm going to be doing that.

While i've been looking around at my options for an upgraded battery, ive been looking up at the dry cell options. has anyone else done that, and if so what differences did you make (i remember a while ago, someone posted a site that made them but i cant find it now)

I'm not to worried about the ground where it is right now, it's on a 1 foot 4 gauge wire, grounded to the metal seat bracket thing on the floor of the trunk (sanded of course) if that's not a good one, can someone suggest another one?

upgrading the alternator was another thing i was probably going to do either way, but what are my options? i called autozone and they only had 1, and he said it was the same as the stock one.

thanks again for the help!

 

1. Get yourself an Optima Yellow Top
2. Redo all the factory grounds in the engine bay
3. Big 3 wire upgrade
4. Put both your caps in parrallel between your battery and your amps, as close to the amps as possible
5. If your going to relocate your battery so it's closer, just get 2, one in the front and one in the back, buy them both at the same time and install them at the same time, maybe even use a battery isolator from an RV supply store
6. If you do 5 then you would consider getting your alternator rewound and buy a higher output one, check some stereo mags for ads, theres a bunch of people who can make them.

 

ok, so i'm looking for the optima yellow top.

i'm going to be upgrading the grounds soon, in a week or so. and i'm going to include the 3 wire upgrade in here too. all the "major" wireing in the engine bay will be upgraded.

i havent gotten any caps yet (dont want to buy anything until i know what i need), but ill get atleast a 3 farad (maybe even a 4 or 5) cap, and have it wired before the distribution block (in the back for the 3 amps)

and over the winter months see what i can do to get a higher output alternator.


does that sound good?