thats what i meant. I dont know where to run the wire to the crossover.

 

Role Reversal - not to down anyone else at all......BUT my stereo is shitting on 75% of the people who post on this board so you must not be informed. secondly the wires in the stock system harness are PLEANTY to send >500 watts too. and i know your not coming anywhere near that.

gen1xslugger - you set up should be

HU RCA sets (fr/rear/sub) ----> crossover----> amps (NOW YOUR GOING TO SPEAKER WIRE)

Amp speaker wires---->(back up to where the deck is and use the stock harness)--->speakers ---->(all tweets should have inline filter of some sort from here)---->tweeters


does that make sense?? you dont want to run wires through the door thats A. ugly B. unsafe C. could get pulled and damage something.
PM me and i will help you more i have pics that should explain

 

This goes to show you that you really dont know what you are talking about. I am not sure who taught you or where you learned that the crossover got preamplifier signals, but you are incorrect. you have half an idea correct about it though. There is some sort of filter before you hook up your tweeter, it's called a crossover. The crossover seperats the freqs so that the mid woofer doesnt get the high freq and tweeter doesnt get the mid freq.


You can continue to think your system is hot shit because you crammed a big woofer into a small car. Spl isnt everything in the car audio world. You are very astute in your assumption that I am not pushing >500 watts to my door speakers. I will barely be pushing 70 watts rms to them when I finish my install. I can care less that you will be hitting higher Spl #'s, shit I will only be runing an 8" woofer. I could care less if my new system doesn't even hit 100 db Spl. I will have SQL that far surpasses that of your system any day of the week.



Here is the real question Optimo, 12.1 Surround sound? Who makes audio compression with 12.1 channels? Who make a head unit that will decompress the audio encoding for 12.1? If you are running car pc what software are you using to do it? Are you sure you didn't just count the # of speakers you shoved in your car and think that was the # of channels you have?

 

optimo i dont really understand that.

the way i have it set up now does not work. i left out the tweeters just to see if the front and rear speakers were connected correctly.. plugged in battery and turned it on. HU worked.. but no sound was produced.

on my amp i have a green light for power, and a red light for protect. the red protect light was on.

 

take pictures of your setup, where is it grounded? Do you have a fuse on the power wire? Where is the fuse located? Double check where your remote connection is. Turn your head unit off - does the amp turn off? Amp should only be powered if the head unit is on... if it's always powered, then your remote wire might be messed up

 

ROLE - keep the shit talking to yourself

Gen1x - most modern cross over use pre-amped signals because its RCAs' coming out of the deck not speaker wire
example:


you can see where its RCA's on both sides beacuse the signal from the HU comes here and you cut the sounds out before you even power them.....WHATS THE POINT IN POWERING FREQ. THAT YOU DONT WANT TO HEAR???

its at this point that the the RCA's plug into your sub and mid/highs amp and its powered up and converted to speaker wire, which in turn go out to your individual speakers.

after the amp and before the speakers you have another chance to cancel freq. you still think are out of the speakers range these are mostly small capacitors like this



or like those pictured with these tweeters



they go inline before the speaker on the positive (red) wire they are soldered in place. alot of times on the tweeter or midrange themselfs



ROLE RIVERSol - stop trying to spread false info or incuraging people to do janky wiring jobs. its dangerous and looks like poop. how do you think hes gonna feelthe first time someone gets in and messes that up. i would be pretty upset that someone lead me to think that was a ok way to wire the job.

for the record role i run a 900watt RMS capiable front stage that i currently power with about 400watts RMS and its LOUD.all my components are SQ competition it just runs a high SPL due to the wattage. dont try to assume you know my set up i only speak of it in SPL as most understand that more as a point of reference.

THIS THREAD IS TO HELP GENX TO GET HIS SPEAKERS RUNNING AND SOUNDING NICE. THE OT from either of us ISNT NEEDED.

 

thank you all for the help... greatly appreciated. I now have all 4 speakers working correctly.

my last thing to install is the tweeters. I already pried off the tweeter cover. I noticed the stock tweeter and its cord... i can not find the end of the cord, and i have no idea where the new wire from the new tweeter should run to get to my crossover box.

 

made a diagram of what i'm talking about



RCA's are pre-amp signal and speaker wire goes to stock harness and out to speakers in the car. you can add the capicitors locally at each speaker during install of the speaker. this is something that is speaker specific and will change as they system changes.

now the tweeters i have are to large for the stock spots so i have them on the dash and the wire is just tucked behind the dash so im not sure how to help you on that part. my RD2 didnt have premium sound so no tweets and no CD player just a weak ass single DIN cassette....cassettes in 2001 WTF were they thinkin??

 

i got it all done, got the speakers and tweeters all installed. perfect.

only problem i had was reassembling the doors. I could get the door panels to match up very well so there is a gap along the bottom of each door. also, the plastic piece that goes around the door handle and lock doesn't fit correct, and there is a bad vibration on the drivers side door when there is bass.

 

Slugger did you make sure the clips in the door seated fully? some times they take a lil tap to get em to pop in that should solve you proplem with the door gap.