yeah I know... you're fairly new to the site so I don't expect you to know me or what I know wink.gif I don't know much about car audio but I know basics. I'm fairly certain it's the proper remote that I have connected. It is a blue wire. Is it possible that the remote wire is pinched or exposed to metal somewhere? Could that cause this problem? Upon removing the remote the amp turned off (Duh) but none of the other wires I tried gave power to the amp. Could I just tap the Remote wire to the HU power wire???

 

Well, another thing is most companies use red as their constant and yellow as the 12V switched leads. You can look for that out of the HU and see where it goes. Another thing you can do is get a voltage tester and just test the wires to see what is still live when the car is off and which are only live when the car is on. You can get a cheapy that looks like a screwdriver with an indicator light in it that informs you if a wire has juice or not at Radio Shack or any electronics store. You don't have to get an aftermarket alternator either, especially for that price. You can find an alternator shop in your area and they can rewind yours which will give it much more power and make it more stable for a lot less. Yes I agree you should do a couple layers of the Xtreme Dynamat. You might want to get a couple of caps (two or three) and a connecting strap to make sure you don't kill your battery and yeah with your car and the blue accents I would get the bluetop too. wink.gif

 

so what farad should I shoot for? 3farads of caps? is that many necessary? I was told 1 farad per 1000watts :-/

 

You can use the power antenna lead for the amp turn on. It's only on when the HU is on.

 

How could that work? Wouldn't the Power Antenna only be on when the Radio is on? Not CD Player?

On my old Buick Park Avenue Ultra, the power antenna only erected (haha! I said erected) when the radio was on, not CD player or Tape.

 

No, it still gets power. I've had a JVC and a Pioneer HU, I think one had a "Power Antenna" wire and one had a "Remote Turn on Wire." Both were driving an amp with two subs. I had a friend tell me to use the power antenna wire when I put a system in my Ford Probe, and it worked there and in the Tiburon. As for the Park Avenue, it could have some circuitry to lower the antenna when you aren't using it, but I'm not sure.

*EDIT*

Found some links on Crutchfield's website:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-PhJxwdVmcem/t.../tech/kb35.html

and if you're thinking about getting a cap:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-PhJxwdVmcem/t...tech/kb267.html

 

alright, I figured out the remote wire. I just put it with the head unit power wire oops.gif
that link is good, but HOW DO I KNOW WHAT SIZE CAPACITOR TO USE? 3 Farad? 15 Farad? 1 Farad?

 

Go here:
http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/5356.html
and here:
http://www.ukcars.com/ice/powercap.php

I've never had to use a capacitor; and since you have to hit a 1000 to really need one, I probably never will.

 

well the exact same system was rated in another car at 148... another car at 151.8... so it's drawing some serious power, and my electrical system has 75,000 miles on it

Also has a remote starter, interior haloz, underbody neons, angel eye headlights, and about to have 10 Police Car strobe lights on it in various places (actual police strobes, suckers are freakin' bright as hell!)

 

led use almost zero power. dont worry about them. you could leave your angel eyes on for a couple days and still start your car without any trouble.