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Audio Question - Alternator

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Old Jun 11, 2004 | 10:24 PM
  #11  
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Well. just as for power capabilities.. I have a Mono channel Alpine amp running 300 watts to each of my 12" subs w/ a 1 farad cap and my lights never dim.. Dunno how it would do w/out the cap because ive always had one..
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Old Jun 11, 2004 | 10:25 PM
  #12  
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From: ɯooɹpǝq ɹnoʎ
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sweet... thanks for the info... I've read about the big 3 and I'm considering it.

What do you think of this:
Splicing the remote wire to something like the cigarette lighter, or something that only comes on when the car is "on" (not necessarily started, but you know... power going to the car. Any ideas/suggestions? Any negative things that can come from this?
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Old Jun 11, 2004 | 10:37 PM
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^^ that was my idea.. so if he is correct, i get credit.. umm.. if it is wrong, then he can take the blame lol.gif
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Old Jun 11, 2004 | 10:54 PM
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You could hook it to something like that,that only has power when the key is in the acc position,but it's kinda Mickey Moused.What if you are driving down the road and something seems to be wrong with the subs and you want to turn off the amp? At that point you can't simply turn off the hu power,and have the amp turn off as well.The best alternative is probably to wire in a switch.But then,you have to remember to turn on the hu first,then hit the amp switch.When you turn off the system,the amp has to be turned off first,then the hu.Otherwise you will have a very loud nasty pop thru the subs,and after time this CAN dammage them.I really don't see why there would not be a remote on,on your hu.Do you have the owners manual?
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Old Jun 12, 2004 | 07:37 AM
  #15  
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From: ɯooɹpǝq ɹnoʎ
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Well right now I can't turn the amp off anyways! It stays on all night! I've been hearing this pop everytime I turn my head unit on, because the amp is already on... and the amp is still on when I turn my headunit off... so yes, I've been hearing this pop.

No I don't have the owners manual, but it's a fairly popular head unit. I'm sure one or two members here have it.

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Old Jun 12, 2004 | 07:52 AM
  #16  
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From: ɯooɹpǝq ɹnoʎ
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I know someone who might be selling a 200amp alt... if I could get it for around $250, would it be a lot easier to replace the power wire while I'm replacing the alt? If I replace power wire to alt, as well as alt, do you think that would be all I have to do?

I'm planning on getting a Blue Top as soon as I can afford a few things, as well as dynamat. But until I can get a Blue Top, would replacing the alternator and alternator power wire be sufficient?

If I can't change the alternator out within the next month or so, would it be too late? Is this gonna fry my alternator pretty soon? I don't ride with it up all the way (my ears wouldn't be able to handle it) but I do have it fairly loud. No dimming of the lights.

I did forget to mention this: Two nights ago I was driving down my driveway, and was closing the sunroof while rolling up both windows and I noticed my headlights dimmed. Last night I was thinking about it, so I went outside, started the car (no audio on), and closed the sunroof.... that alone dimmed the dome lights (only one, both were not on)... I think there's a bad connection on the battery terminal (almost completely sure of it) so I'll be replacing the ring sometime this weekend hopefully. So the system may not be pulling as much juice as I thought, it could just be the bad connection at the battery.
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Old Jun 12, 2004 | 11:38 AM
  #17  
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Well.. I dunno what HU you have but if you did it right, you shouldve gotten a harness adapter for a hyundai (gives you all the wires needed to connect) then you have the harness off the aftermarket radio, and you just splice the wires together correct? If so, shouldnt you have a remote wire off your deck?

I dunno which you have, you didnt mention that part so just throwing it out there.. If all else fails, you can get a switch, run 12v constant to it, and just manually turn the amp on/off.. That way if something goes bad, it wont screw w/ the amp and vice versa..
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Old Jun 12, 2004 | 11:55 AM
  #18  
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i have a 500 watt and a 340 watt amp running 6x9's and 12's, w/o a power cap, and my lights dont dim at all. (all alpine type-r)
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Old Jun 12, 2004 | 06:21 PM
  #19  
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From: ɯooɹpǝq ɹnoʎ
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iamcyclopseatme----dude, I have a huge picture of what I have, just scroll up a little bit.

I'm not completely stupid about audio... I do have a wiring harness and it's all hooked up properly. The wiring coming from the back of the HU does not say "remote" on the wire, but it's blue. Some of the wires are labeled (right front, right rear, power antenna, etc.). None of them actually say "remote" or "signal" so I tested all of the wires...
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Old Jun 12, 2004 | 08:12 PM
  #20  
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Hrmm sorry.. When i checked back, i guess the pic hadnt downloaded yet sorry ;/ (im on dial up).. Well its usually the blue wire coming off of the HU for remote.. If that doesnt work, id say put in a switch so you can manually turn the amp on and off, and if your worried about leaving it on when the HU is off, couldnt you just splice into one of the speaker wires? I know thats kinda not normal, but if you dont have a remote wire coming off your HU that works, your pretty screwed otherwise..

Of the wires you tested that werent used, do any give voltage (id assume only a couple volts? for a remote) when you turned the HU on?

btw, im not saying your stupid, I just didnt see what you had nor do i know you.. Just trying to post helpful info of what i know ;/
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