ok well i thought id add to this, ive sent out my 05 GK tib ECU in hopes of getting it raised in the limiter.
im hoping he will contact me shortly with some possitive news, he said hed only been working on older tib ECUs but said hed take a look at it.
i figured the limiter would be the same in the ecu across any year (why would they change the location or encoding)
Chase
seeing as how 6500-6800 is what the limiter has ALWAYS been set at, id figure it be in the same place as always.
Food for thought

 

Honestly, unless you have high duration/high lift cams I don't really think it would be worth it do do this modification.

Reason being lies in any dyno graph of a tiburon with stock cams. At the stock redline the power is already beginning to fall off, so no additional power lies above the stock limiter and you would only risk damaging the bottom end or your valve train. The stock cams just cant support that kind of rpm.

As was mentioned there is no modification of the fuel/ignition map whatsoever, so the only benefit to be had would be the ability to take advantage of bigger cams.

IMHO, do not waste your money on headwork unless you plan to boost, I got minimal gains for the money I put into it. If you could get it done cheap it might be worth it.

Of course it wouldn't hurt for someone who has basic mods to do this as it doesn't cost too much and it would be good to find out what the result might be.

Thanks.

 

Werd. If someone wants to dyno their STOCK Tib with this ECU, that would be great! fing02.gif

 

Hey there guys,

Just got back from the dyno.

I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

The first two are of my previous dyno with the 1.8L trans and without the ecu mod.

The third and fourth are after my beta 2 trans swap and with the 1.8L ecu and rev-limiter increase (7700 rpm now).

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...06/Dyno2004.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...06/Dyno2005.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...06/Dyno2006.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...06/Dyno2007.jpg

He must have had the smoothing level down a bit for these two runs as they are a bit jagged.

My first pull was done in third gear, the second in fourth. Fourth gear goes to 135mph at 7700, lol. This trans would be great for turbo.

As you can see power falls off right at about 7200 rpm, and my A/F is now 14:1 until I get past the stock rev-limiter. For the second pull (the blue line), I increased my fuel via the SAFC II all the way across the board from 4% to 15% and it made absolutely no difference until I past the stock redline. Also, there was a little bit of bluish blackish smoke once it got past about 7100. Very light though, almost non-existant. I wonder if the valves are floating just slightly above 7200 (what all the koreans say to stop the engine at due to valve float), causing the slight drop in power and some smoke due to reversion of exhaust gases? Or is that just all the cams are good to? I should really set my cam timing back to zero and start from scratch. Right now it is 9 degrees advanced on the intake and 3 advanced on the exhaust.

After I left I increased my fuel to 20% and it is still at 14:1 so the SAFC doesn't do shyt. Would an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator work to increase fuel?

I should be making more power than this will all my mods right? Would a good tune yeild me 10-20 hp? I wonder...

BTW: Jon, I don't know if it would be a legit increase in power due to me pulling in third gear, but if you want I can post these in the horsepower wars thread and you could bump up my hp numbers. I am guessing the torque was lower due to the much leaner curve. My previous runs were at about 11.5:1 now it is 14:1 so.

Thanks.

 

well i would say that for 100 bucks thats a good mod. and thats proof enough for me, only thing is i would have listend to everyone else before and just left it at 7100 because of valve float. someone else has allready done that and messed up their car, gotta learn from experince.

where did you get your cams from? what was the cost of them? would it be worth it for someone to use the highcams with rev-increase for a good HP gain or would the accompanying headwork have to be done aswell?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tdonnell @ Sep 18 2007, 03:56 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Honestly, unless you have high duration/high lift cams I don't really think it would be worth it do do this modification.

Reason being lies in any dyno graph of a tiburon with stock cams. At the stock redline the power is already beginning to fall off, so no additional power lies above the stock limiter and you would only risk damaging the bottom end or your valve train. The stock cams just cant support that kind of rpm.

As was mentioned there is no modification of the fuel/ignition map whatsoever, so the only benefit to be had would be the ability to take advantage of bigger cams.

IMHO, do not waste your money on headwork unless you plan to boost, I got minimal gains for the money I put into it. If you could get it done cheap it might be worth it.

Of course it wouldn't hurt for someone who has basic mods to do this as it doesn't cost too much and it would be good to find out what the result might be.

Thanks.</div>
i do have high lift high deration cams.
1300 for a set of turbo 2+ crane cams.

 

^^^There is your answer for the price.

Kspec is the only place I have seen that has them readily available and they are around 1200. I got mine used for 625, but they are not as aggressive and you can never find them that cheap so good luck.

I would say this mod is only worth it if you have cams.

What happened to the persons engine who rev'ed past 7100?

Thanks.

 

i dont know for sure or anything but i'm going to GUESS he had the same smoke you did and backed it down.

 

mine was still running strong
only issues i had was some jacked up lifter and the engine was beginning to consume more oil then i like (no smoke yet)

BUT...
bottom end and head were 100% stock (exept for the cams) and the engine has been driven hard since day one... (about 4-5 years ago)

 

Thanks for the info Denisst,

I am not worried about any critical damages, that would just be an excuse to build a turbo engine, lol.

About the smoke, the only way it was visible is if you looked from inside the shop outside, if you looked into the shop from outside, you couldn't even see it. That is how light it was, and I do have the oil overfilled by about 1/5 quart (I was too lazy to drain out the excess, lol). So maybe that played a bit of a part.

What do you think about the numbers denisst? Are they representative of my mods, or are they a bit low? I personally think I could get at least 10 more horsepower from a good tune with a standalone or similar device.

How much power would installing the 1.8 pistons on my 2.0 yeild with a stock ecu?

Does the power fall off point represent the cams properly, or could it be valve float?

Thanks in advance for any comments.