so how do you get signal? That's pretty much your only two options.. cut, or splice.... occasionally you can bolt on a signal connection, such as on the back of the gauges, but that is rare. You have to cut and splice.. don't you?

If you use the proper wire tap (red smallest, blue medium, and yellow for flippin' huge) you won't run into any problems. For extra security you can tape up the outside.

 

With taps be really careful. I have seen so many get corrosion in them and lose contact. I have had bad experiences with tapping just like Redz. Gotta be careful and do it right.

 

Thanks for all the replies guys!


LOL, I took my dash apart like a gazzilion times, and that's why I wanted to avoid it... It is nicely painted. I don't wanna scratch anything.
Also, I can't seem to place it perfectly back like stock. it started ratelling more after the first time I took it off... Oh well. maybe it's a chance to try and fix that....


After reading all of the above, you conviced me to go the "cluster" way.
Did anyone snap a pic of that bolt (or white wire) mentioned to get the rpm signal behind the cluster?

PS, Do I need to disconnect my battery, or simply not to turn the key, while the cluster is off - to avoid the air bag light?

 

technically anything electrical, you suppose to disconnect the battery...

but we know people dont

 

I've got pics of it up in my DIY thread for shift lights. Or maybe it was a review thread.

Anyways, on the back of the cluster, it'll say "tach sig" or something like that above the screw. Just make sure you have a long enough cable.

As for rattles and such, make sure you are putting ALL screws back in, as we often forget some, and that everything is well mounted.

 

If you want to have a splice you don't have to worry about, ever, do this

Find the wire (hardest part)

Strip 3/4" of insulation off, all the way around the wire
Wrap 1.5-2" of the end of your connecting wire around the signal wire
Solder the whole thing, making sure the solder penetrates through BOTH wires all the way
Tape it up

Or use a heat gun melting solder splice

Crimps are easy to mess up and inline clamp on splices are asking for trouble if you demand high reliability

 

that's a good damned way to do it, for sure, but I'd rather put a ring terminal at the end of the signal wire, and then screw it down on the back. Soldering would be second for me, then taps. I'll never use taps again if I can avoid em.