Thanks but my signature might be more useful if the links went here instead of still being broken and pointing to RDTiburon.com threads. Plus I had to put power steering back in heck even my blog moved since I wrote that signature!



The cam swap, I didn't really notice a difference, but I did some other stuff at the same time too. It seemed like a good idea at the time and I had the part from my parts car so I put it in. I'd like to see somebody do a before/after dyno pull on that actually. Hmm...I smell a new thread coming on!

 

Can I use a A4BF 2 Transmission from a Elantra? They have a speedo cable and mine doesn't....only difference.

 

If you can return it for not fitting and all the electrical connectors are exactly the same, you might try it.

 

That's a problem , if it isn't considered a "direct swap " they will be no warranty. According to the salvage yard owner if it doesn't show as being compatible in his guide he cant warranty it at all. $327 ( with warranty I would pay $550 ) and its mine no matter what . He did say he would check the case for cracks and other damage as the car ( 119k miles on car )was wrecked in the front. It's about my only choice unless I pay shipping for one with a warranty ( $900 - $1000 ) and I really cant afford it. I would wait or swap it over to 5 speed but I will have knee surgery soon so I gotta have a automatic fairly quick.



It looks like it will work ,All my sensors were good as far as know. No codes other than po734 from OD slipping. The OD clutch pack ( bearings look good?? ) is all that was damaged in mine but large pieces got in ever part of the transmission/trans-axle which explains what grinding the noise was , large pieces in the differential . I'm surprised it had any forward or reverse .I don't think it would be a good core for a rebuild with that much metal everywhere.Thanks , I guess I will take my seed sensor with me and see how it fits where the speedometer cable was removed.Lord Willing it will work out.

 

Update . I found a Tibby A4BF2 for $300 , no warranty and 105k miles . I took the pan off and sure enough the OD thrust bearing was in pieces , most of it was in the filter. I took the side cover off and replaced the trust bearing ,OD drum seal and bushing. Thank God it seems to be great now. Shifts good and OD works as it should. If anyone else has OD problems or code po734 I will share part numbers and any info I can to help . I took pics of the job as well .The transmission does not have to be removed for this fix. Thanks all for the help and info , this is a good lil community.

 

 

I removed the radiator ( put the trans cooler on while I had it out , better access ) and flushed it out , it was clean and flowing good so I checked the thermostat . It was barely opening so I replaced it with a good stant and cleaned all the hose connections . While I had it up on jack stands I went ahead and changed the oil , coolant and replaced the plugs . Since I bought this car the idle has been high ( around 1000 , never really falling below 875 ) and seems to creep up as it warms up. I took the IAC , MAF and IAT off and cleaned them all good with MAF cleaner and replaced the hose and clamps going to the IAC . When I started it back up it idled low for just a few seconds ( I suspect from a little remaining maf cleaner in the IAC ) and popped code P0506 ,Idle rpm lower than expected - Idle Control Valve . I cleared the code and it hasn't returned . While I had the scanner out I went ahead and watched the operation data and all looked well except the scanner showed the temperature rising slowly while the gauge needle rose quiet a bit faster . I believe I need a temperature sending unit but would you think the coolant temp sensor is bad as well ( idle issues ) ? I plan to take it on a long test drive tomorrow to see what it does. I also suspect a vacuum leak but I have checked / replaced all the vacuum lines, could be the a gasket. Odd , I just replaced the flex pie and thermostat , mileage is at 101k . I had to replace the flex , thermostat and coolant temp sensor all at about 102k on my ol 2000 Elantra so this makes the coolant temp sensor failure more likely. No codes for it though . That being said when the CTS failed on the Elantra I had low idle and stalling for a while before it popped a code. Do you think I am on the right track ?

 

Did you 'burp' the coolant system after refilling? If is overheating, that could be the problem.

 

I did , it took a while to get the air out. It isn't overheating but it just seems to reach operating temp faster than I remember my other Hyundai doing. It never moves above half way on the gauge. It idles at 1000 rpm cold but only falls to 960 fully warmed up , 940 with fan on. Is this fairly normal ? It idles fairly smooth . I have checked about everything I can with my scanner and meter and everything is withing speck . The TPS is right on 6 % at idle.The coolant temp reading reaches 207 and I think I remember reading it shouldn't go above 195 at idle @ operating temp but I believe the CTS is ok. It seems it would idle low and run rich while warming up if it ( CTS ) was failing . I guess the CTS could read higher than what the coolant actually is but I don't think it would cause high idle.

 

If the temperature needle stays at mid-range you are golden. It's almost an idiot light, and it will jump (well, rise quickly) to middle, stay there, then rise to hot when it gets REALLY hot. The idle should be (from memory) 800 or 850 plus or minus 100RPM. Below 750 or so and it will shake the car pretty hard. If you haven't cleaned the throttle body recently gunk buildup could be the only thing between you and a low idle. Try cleaning off the butterfly valve and its seat and see where it idles AFTER a full warm-up.