Went to pick up transmission today and it wasn't at all like mine other than the bell housing .It was labeled 2002 Elantra GT and unlike mine had the pan on the side . All the plugs/sensors were different as well ( I believe it was a F4A41/42 transmission ( 15 bolt pan ) . It had a fist size hole where the mount was ripped off in the wreck but it appeared that part could be unbolted and replaced but I don't know.



My transmission has the 13 bolt pan on the bottom so i believe it is the F4A32 . The manufacture date of my car is May 28 2001 , is this a facture as to which transmission it would have? I read having a F in the vin is a another way to determine transmission model , is this accurate? From the research I have done there are many potential donors but are all F4A32 transmissions the same? Any help would be appreciated . Usually when I call salvage yards I am ask what month and year the car was made but I would like to be able to know for sure which one they have to before I go to pick it up.



Here is a few pics of my trans , is it the F4A32 ?

 

The '02 elantra has a beta II, the tib you have is a beta I.

 

So is that the F4A32 ( AFBF - 3 ? ) transmission? From what I understand I would have to use a trans from a 99 - 01 Tiburon or 2000 Elantra , is that correct? Thanks for the help.

 

You are correct sir.

 

I feel silly , its stamped right on it , A4BF 2. Man about every place I had called had quoted me a price on the wrong transmission . I have found one with 109k ( 30 day warranty ) for $550 plus tax. I have a few places left to call tomorrow. I will probably call some places to get rebuild quotes. I have rebuilt older RWD Transmissions with fairly simple layouts and no electronics but I am not sure about attempting this one. I did take the rear cover off and the overdrive pack out. The bearing in the rear cover looks good but there are groves in the cover .The OD drum also has groves on the outside ( facing rear cover ) but all the bearings I have seen so far look good. Shaft is solid as well.The first two steals look bad and deeply scared. The friction plates look real good , someone may have been in this transmission before. From the groves I found I thought I would find one or more bearings to be bad as some "wobbling" had to occur. I may tear it down a bit more but I don't have the experience or tools to rebuild it myself. If anyone knows where I can find a fair deal on a transmission I am willing to drive a reasonable amount from east TN to get it.

 

My autotragic had bits of needle bearing in the pan and thick black goop, as well as circumferential grooving of the ring gear.



If you are so inclined, the time you need a replacement automatic transmission in this platform is an excellent time to convert to manual transmission.

 

The autos in these cars just suck. Seriously, I spent the price of my car in repairs to the transmission within the first year of ownership alone. Swap in a manual and never look back.

 

Thanks for the replies ,Usually that would be my first thought as well but due to left knee problems I gotta keep it automatic.

 

Try to get one with low miles if you can, and as soon as possible install an aftermarket transmission oil cooler. Keep an eye on the fluid, because these run 15º or so hot, stock - it BURNS within 15k miles which is why Hyundai said brown ATF was normal. Burnt = normal



-and ONLY use the recommended fluid! Other types of fluid turn the friction material to goop.

 

Thanks for the info. I plan to use a trans cooler and spII/spIII fluid. Man I drained the rest of the fluid out of the bad transmission preparing to disassemble it. Besides having a horrible burnt smell it had chunks of what looks like band/friction material and is full of tiny flakes of metal ( mostly yellow metal(s)). I'm ruling out repairing this one , the differential is most likely damaged as well from the looks of whats in the fluid.



Stocker , I like you signature. I am considering looking into the intake cam swap later on , did you notice a lot of gain from the swap?