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Which ECU tune do you all have?

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Old 01-04-2012, 04:25 PM
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I have the BTRCC TUNE AND LOVE IT.. :biggrin:
Old 01-14-2012, 11:29 PM
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I have the BR stage 1 tune which is incredibly insane but there have been some issues which I'm pretty sure are related to it producing too much boost for the stock turbo. Thinking of trying the piranha racewerks tune, which is at 19psi rather than 20psi. BTW, this tune will not eat your clutch as some claim if you take care how you drive but it will leave you with bald tires!
Old 01-15-2012, 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 8765309
BTW, this tune will not eat your clutch as some claim if you take care how you drive but it will leave you with bald tires!


Really? So I'm full of sh*t when I say that -every- time I accelerated in 4th, 5th or 6th gear that at about 3000rpms the tach would jump 2000rpms and go back down? When I emailed Tim at Beyond Redline, his response was "sorry but you lost the clutch lottery, I can sell you our clutch/flywheel kit if you'd like." Funny how he didn't mention anything on his website or threads about that. What do you mean "if you take care how you drive"? I've been driving manuals for almost 10 years and the vendor even admitted that it was the reflash that was doing it.



So if the clutch is slipping -during- acceleration, then yes, it will only get worse and eventually eat your clutch. I'm glad you're not experiencing issues, but I mentioned my personal experience so people potentially buying a reflash won't have any surprises. Don't tell me that I'm somehow wrong.
Old 01-15-2012, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by PandaSmuggler
Really? So I'm full of sh*t when I say that -every- time I accelerated in 4th, 5th or 6th gear that at about 3000rpms


No, I would not want to insult you like that but maybe this is why your clutch is toast. NEVER accelerate hard from low rpms in a high gear because this driving style will definitely toast your clutch. It took you ten years to learn that but now you know.
Old 01-15-2012, 02:02 PM
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How long have you had their tune on the car? If your clutch isn't destroyed yet, your OEM flywheel will be toast soon. Razgriz has their stage 1, his clutch wasn't slipping and it looked alright when he yanked it out, but his flywheel was FUBAR'd.
Old 01-15-2012, 07:40 PM
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I've had my tune for close to 20,000 km with no clutch or transmission issues; however, I do not doubt that it will lower the lifespan of my clutch and flywheel and that is to be expected, this tune is represents a significant increase in power and the stock setup probably wasn't engineered to take any more boost than the factory settings. I have heard of people running for more than 30,000 km with no problems. Again, it's how you drive - there are certain things like mashing the gas pedal at low rpms in 4th gear that will guarantee your clutch won't last the weekend. Personally, I like this tune because the car acts like stock if you want it to and for the most part I drive it that way - probably why I haven't had any clutch slippage.
Old 01-15-2012, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 8765309
No, I would not want to insult you like that but maybe this is why your clutch is toast. NEVER accelerate hard from low rpms in a high gear because this driving style will definitely toast your clutch. It took you ten years to learn that but now you know.


Haha you're not insulting me so no worries. When did I say that I was accelerating hard from low RPMs? This condition happened during accelerating moderately like going on an on-ramp onto a freeway. I wasn't mashing the gas pedal as soon as I shifted. I know better than that. As soon as I reflashed it back to the base tune, there was no slippage. If I dumped the clutch, it would immediately engage as soon as I took my foot off the clutch. I also broke in the car when I first bought it, including taking it really easy on the clutch. I had a 92 BMW 535i with 220k miles on the stock clutch, it never slipped. If I'm doing something wrong, then it's something that I picked up recently.



What most likely is going on is with the reflash is that the OEM clutch is at or near torque capacity. Since I don't have official numbers from Hyundai, the closest I found was a post from DTM Speed saying torque capacity was 289ft/lbs (didn't mention if that's at the wheel or crank.) I'm sure clutches are required to meet a certain spec, and I also imagine that every one manufactured isn't exactly identical. The fact of the matter is, these reflashes put the torque rating right at capacity of the OEM clutch. This is why Tim said I "lost the clutch lottery". He acknowledged that I wasn't/didn't do anything wrong. Some people will be lucky and have no problems, and some will need to buy a new clutch. The problem I have with you is your snooty attitude. You come off as arrogant and smug. There's clearly more than just me that experienced clutch slippage. Your attitude of "well, I don't have a problem, therefore it's something you're doing wrong" is just plain annoying. It's something Engineers at my work do Maybe that wasn't your intent, but it comes off that way.
Old 01-15-2012, 09:39 PM
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Yeah, that was pretty snooty of me, I just assumed you were a bad driver. So that's too bad about your situation, sorry to hear that.



'Clutch lottery', interesting response from Tim. I have issues with my tune that I haven't been able to figure out and I got the same sort of response from Tim as well, him telling me that it is difficult to develop a tune that will work on everyone's car because the model they use for research and development will be slightly different from the model you're driving. But it's a lame response from an engineering perspective because if you are going to develop a canned tune that will work on thousands of cars located in different parts of the country with varying temperatures and altitudes then you should probably develop a tune that maxes out reasonably below a certain threshold. 20psi is obviously too much, but dyno charts seem to be more important than overall customer satisfaction.



Anyone here running the piranha racewerks stage 1? I understand it's slightly more conservative than BR, this may be just what I'm looking for.
Old 01-16-2012, 07:37 AM
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I have the BR stage 2 and my clutch is slipping. 35k on the car.
Old 01-16-2012, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by CrookedH
IMO the base 20T PA tune, from PA, isn't something I'd want to run. The dyno sheet they posted of it was showing a 13:1 a/f in some spots and I don't think it ever went below 12:1.



BR, TurboXS, BTRcc, and PRW are the ones I'd stick with for the 20T. They're all going to make similar power and since they're canned tunes you can't really say one is better than another if they're within 5-10whp, as you car might be +/- 5-10whp over their test car with the same tune. The tuners essentially have 3 options to tweak and make more power. Boost, timing, and valve timing. I'm pretty sure none of them mess with valve timing. I'm 100% sure that they all have to obey the laws of physics and only run a certain amount of timing advance and a certain amount of boost before IATs get too high and/or you start to get knock/detonation.



Hell I made 225whp and 270wtq with just a CMD and intake, which is the same or more than any of the "Stage 1" ecu flashes out there.



The only reason I'd lean away from BR is if you're looking at a stage 2 or 3 kit with the DW 550cc injectors, as those injectors have cranking, cold stumble, and hot start issues. It sucks beause BR whipped up some solid tunes but the injectors themselves have issues. I had the BR stage 3 setup for a while with the DW injectors. I messed with the fuel scalar in my CMD (on top of BR tune) until the cows came home but could never get the injectors to behave properly. I bought some Bosch EV14 680cc injectors off ebay and all my problems went away.


Just want to add that we have the ability to change the valve timing. Only thing is it really doesn't result in any noticeable gains.

There was much anticipation but no real gains to show and was a big disappointment, but at the same time showed how well the valve timing was setup to begin with on the 2.0T.



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