My 2003 Accent - what next?
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From: Lacey, WA
Vehicle: Two Accents, Mini, Miata, Van, Outback, and a ZX-6
Yeah I bored out the IM to match or exceed the diameter of the BBTB plus I smoothed the transitions into the runners from the top.
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Lacey, WA
Vehicle: Two Accents, Mini, Miata, Van, Outback, and a ZX-6
Thanks!
I'm going to paint the System R lettering the same color red as my car also I think.
I am pretty sure this improved low RPM torque quite a bit. It's actually hard to keep from spinning when I take off now. But I see no improvement in the top end.
I'm going to paint the System R lettering the same color red as my car also I think.
I am pretty sure this improved low RPM torque quite a bit. It's actually hard to keep from spinning when I take off now. But I see no improvement in the top end.
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From: Langley AFB, VA
Vehicle: 2016 Tucson Sport AWD
floyd....... 4 words.... TWM Short Throw Shifter...... i have to say it is a must have... it makes driving your accent 1000000x more fun banana.gif i need to take pics of mine
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,515
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From: Lacey, WA
Vehicle: Two Accents, Mini, Miata, Van, Outback, and a ZX-6
Hi Cujo!
Yeah I've been meaning to do that...the stock shifter is just so good already. Maybe mine is just a freak. It's one of the smoothest shifters I've ever used and the throw is already short enough that I don't have to move anything but my wrist. But I do plan on getting the TWM.
Yeah I've been meaning to do that...the stock shifter is just so good already. Maybe mine is just a freak. It's one of the smoothest shifters I've ever used and the throw is already short enough that I don't have to move anything but my wrist. But I do plan on getting the TWM.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: parkville, md
Vehicle: 1997 accent L
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(187sks @ Apr 2 2008, 09:51 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'>Ok, I'm looking to move the power output of my Accent to 125+whp. I am currently at 99whp.
I have:
4:2:1 header
custom exhaust 2.25" crush bent
short ram intake w/ K&N
phenolic spacer
TB coolant bypass mod
and I have a BBTB to install this weekend and I might do a bit of IM porting and polishing.
*snip*
Any suggestions on a good path to go?</div>
How did you get your current power figure? Other than a horsepower goal, what are you trying to do with the car? Do you want to stay naturally aspirated, or do you want to go with a turbo or nitrous? Are you a drag racer, or do you want to try track days? Any plans to autocross?
Anything beyond this point is going to cost some cash. RPW in Australia has cams that fit your motor, and yes they'll be expensive. RPW can also modify a set of stock cam gears so they're adjustable. They also have a 4-1 long tube header which is probably better than the 4-2-1 piece you have now, and you should go to a 2" or 2.25" mandrel bent exhaust, not crush bent. The next step realistically, regardless of what you do, is engine management and a clutch/flywheel. Kspec had a clutch and lightweight flywheel combo listed, dunno if its still available. As far as engine management, decide how serious you want to get now, what path you want to take, and how reversable you want the changes to be.
I have:
4:2:1 header
custom exhaust 2.25" crush bent
short ram intake w/ K&N
phenolic spacer
TB coolant bypass mod
and I have a BBTB to install this weekend and I might do a bit of IM porting and polishing.
*snip*
Any suggestions on a good path to go?</div>
How did you get your current power figure? Other than a horsepower goal, what are you trying to do with the car? Do you want to stay naturally aspirated, or do you want to go with a turbo or nitrous? Are you a drag racer, or do you want to try track days? Any plans to autocross?
Anything beyond this point is going to cost some cash. RPW in Australia has cams that fit your motor, and yes they'll be expensive. RPW can also modify a set of stock cam gears so they're adjustable. They also have a 4-1 long tube header which is probably better than the 4-2-1 piece you have now, and you should go to a 2" or 2.25" mandrel bent exhaust, not crush bent. The next step realistically, regardless of what you do, is engine management and a clutch/flywheel. Kspec had a clutch and lightweight flywheel combo listed, dunno if its still available. As far as engine management, decide how serious you want to get now, what path you want to take, and how reversable you want the changes to be.
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,515
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From: Lacey, WA
Vehicle: Two Accents, Mini, Miata, Van, Outback, and a ZX-6
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(skierd @ Apr 10 2008, 06:57 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'>How did you get your current power figure?</div>
Mustang Dyno. Two different visits. First visit was perfect conditions and I got 99whp and 109lb/ft tq. Second visit was less favorable and I got 99whp 101 lb/ft tq. but my new mods were evident in the torque increase in the upper RPM range. Everyone who ran both days with no changes was 5%-20% lower the second day than the first.
Dyno chart
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(skierd @ Apr 10 2008, 06:57 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'>Other than a horsepower goal, what are you trying to do with the car? Do you want to stay naturally aspirated, or do you want to go with a turbo or nitrous? Are you a drag racer, or do you want to try track days? Any plans to autocross?</div>
I don't plan on doing anything serious with the car. No racing really. I just want it to be quicker to be more fun to drive. I think that I'm going to go ahead and do a Beta swap and turbo it probably because that seems like the most bang for my buck. This will be a project for me to play with and experiment with. I want to see what I can make the car do without making it an endless money pit. In other words I'm not interested in buying a $4000 turbo kit to go fast I would rather build it myself if I'm going to do it. I look at this as a chance to learn a lot now that the car no longer needs to be daily driven. I don't mean spending money but I would rather spend money on the tools to do it myself and learn than just pay someone else to do something.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(skierd @ Apr 10 2008, 06:57 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'>Anything beyond this point is going to cost some cash. RPW in Australia has cams that fit your motor, and yes they'll be expensive. RPW can also modify a set of stock cam gears so they're adjustable. They also have a 4-1 long tube header which is probably better than the 4-2-1 piece you have now, and you should go to a 2" or 2.25" mandrel bent exhaust, not crush bent. The next step realistically, regardless of what you do, is engine management and a clutch/flywheel. Kspec had a clutch and lightweight flywheel combo listed, dunno if its still available. As far as engine management, decide how serious you want to get now, what path you want to take, and how reversable you want the changes to be.</div>
RPW no longer sells cams for the DOHC Alpha. There is another company (name slips my mind) in Australia that makes cams for the 1.5l DOHC that should be exchangeable but I'm waiting to hear that they actually bolt in and work well. Adjustable cam gears can be bought from a few places now. I think I might get one and retard my cam timing a bit to move my power band a little higher in the RPM range if the beta plans are going to take a while. I'll probably keep my header, it's a pretty nice unit even though it is 4:2:1 which I know is worse for top end power than a long tube 4:1. If nothing else that one's just not worth the price for the gain vs. my header. I think I'll buy the Evofusion catback (2.25" mandrel bent) and modify it to fit my setup and sound the way I like. I'm currently all mandrel bends until the pipe bend to go over the axle. If I can find a place locally that has a mandrel bender I'll just have one done up custom. Exhaust is depending on timeframe for Beta turbo setup. If I'm going to turbo soon I'll run larger pipe. Please explain why I need a new clutch. Mine is not slipping (perceptibly anyways) so I don't understand the reasoning behind upgrading. I understand the benefit of the lightweight flywheel but the clutch I want explained to me because EVERYONE tells me I need a new clutch and it just doesn't make sense to me. As far as engine management goes I don't have to worry about emissions testing or anything so I think I'm going to run a Megasquirt because that's another thing I want to figure out thoroughly.
Mustang Dyno. Two different visits. First visit was perfect conditions and I got 99whp and 109lb/ft tq. Second visit was less favorable and I got 99whp 101 lb/ft tq. but my new mods were evident in the torque increase in the upper RPM range. Everyone who ran both days with no changes was 5%-20% lower the second day than the first.
Dyno chart
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(skierd @ Apr 10 2008, 06:57 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'>Other than a horsepower goal, what are you trying to do with the car? Do you want to stay naturally aspirated, or do you want to go with a turbo or nitrous? Are you a drag racer, or do you want to try track days? Any plans to autocross?</div>
I don't plan on doing anything serious with the car. No racing really. I just want it to be quicker to be more fun to drive. I think that I'm going to go ahead and do a Beta swap and turbo it probably because that seems like the most bang for my buck. This will be a project for me to play with and experiment with. I want to see what I can make the car do without making it an endless money pit. In other words I'm not interested in buying a $4000 turbo kit to go fast I would rather build it myself if I'm going to do it. I look at this as a chance to learn a lot now that the car no longer needs to be daily driven. I don't mean spending money but I would rather spend money on the tools to do it myself and learn than just pay someone else to do something.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(skierd @ Apr 10 2008, 06:57 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'>Anything beyond this point is going to cost some cash. RPW in Australia has cams that fit your motor, and yes they'll be expensive. RPW can also modify a set of stock cam gears so they're adjustable. They also have a 4-1 long tube header which is probably better than the 4-2-1 piece you have now, and you should go to a 2" or 2.25" mandrel bent exhaust, not crush bent. The next step realistically, regardless of what you do, is engine management and a clutch/flywheel. Kspec had a clutch and lightweight flywheel combo listed, dunno if its still available. As far as engine management, decide how serious you want to get now, what path you want to take, and how reversable you want the changes to be.</div>
RPW no longer sells cams for the DOHC Alpha. There is another company (name slips my mind) in Australia that makes cams for the 1.5l DOHC that should be exchangeable but I'm waiting to hear that they actually bolt in and work well. Adjustable cam gears can be bought from a few places now. I think I might get one and retard my cam timing a bit to move my power band a little higher in the RPM range if the beta plans are going to take a while. I'll probably keep my header, it's a pretty nice unit even though it is 4:2:1 which I know is worse for top end power than a long tube 4:1. If nothing else that one's just not worth the price for the gain vs. my header. I think I'll buy the Evofusion catback (2.25" mandrel bent) and modify it to fit my setup and sound the way I like. I'm currently all mandrel bends until the pipe bend to go over the axle. If I can find a place locally that has a mandrel bender I'll just have one done up custom. Exhaust is depending on timeframe for Beta turbo setup. If I'm going to turbo soon I'll run larger pipe. Please explain why I need a new clutch. Mine is not slipping (perceptibly anyways) so I don't understand the reasoning behind upgrading. I understand the benefit of the lightweight flywheel but the clutch I want explained to me because EVERYONE tells me I need a new clutch and it just doesn't make sense to me. As far as engine management goes I don't have to worry about emissions testing or anything so I think I'm going to run a Megasquirt because that's another thing I want to figure out thoroughly.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 691
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From: parkville, md
Vehicle: 1997 accent L
Gotcha.
With what you want from the car, I wouldn't bother with the beta swap unless you have your heart set on it. Just turbo the alpha. You should be able to piece something together for about $1500.
Something that would be more fun would be an ITB kit. I was going to use a megaspark to control ignition, and then find a set of carb's from a mid-90's 1000cc I4 sport bike, find a low pressure fuel pump, and have at. Its what I was going to do with my 98 had I kept the car and gotten the suspension sorted. You could do the same with fuel injection, just pick the same units from a late model bike that had FI instead and use megasquirt to tune.
Aftermarket clutches can be/should be lighter than stock, and help the way a flywheel helps. They also have more gripping power and more aggressive lockup, so the time spend waiting for the clutch to stop slipping and start transmitting power is reduced.
With what you want from the car, I wouldn't bother with the beta swap unless you have your heart set on it. Just turbo the alpha. You should be able to piece something together for about $1500.
Something that would be more fun would be an ITB kit. I was going to use a megaspark to control ignition, and then find a set of carb's from a mid-90's 1000cc I4 sport bike, find a low pressure fuel pump, and have at. Its what I was going to do with my 98 had I kept the car and gotten the suspension sorted. You could do the same with fuel injection, just pick the same units from a late model bike that had FI instead and use megasquirt to tune.
Aftermarket clutches can be/should be lighter than stock, and help the way a flywheel helps. They also have more gripping power and more aggressive lockup, so the time spend waiting for the clutch to stop slipping and start transmitting power is reduced.
