Rotora Brake Kits...
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ArcticChill)</div><div class='quotemain'>What about newer Sonata rotors? They're about an inch bigger than the RD Tib ones. Are the Sonata rotors larger, or you guys using the same ish?
Edit: Oh, one other thing...if these are direct OE replacements, I'm assuming the thickness is the same for the Tib?
Width: 22m
Diameter: 257mm
Right? Thanks.</div>
If I'm NOT mistaken, the new Sonata rotors are the same size as the stock GKs. I can double check that for you.
And yes, these are direct OE replacements. YOU ARE CORRECT!
Edit: Oh, one other thing...if these are direct OE replacements, I'm assuming the thickness is the same for the Tib?
Width: 22m
Diameter: 257mm
Right? Thanks.</div>
If I'm NOT mistaken, the new Sonata rotors are the same size as the stock GKs. I can double check that for you.
And yes, these are direct OE replacements. YOU ARE CORRECT!
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Johns03Tib)</div><div class='quotemain'>If I'm NOT mistaken, the new Sonata rotors are the same size as the stock GKs. I can double check that for you.
And yes, these are direct OE replacements. YOU ARE CORRECT!</div>
Right...just need to double check the 4-lug Sonata rotors. If they are the same size as the stock GK Tibs, what's the pricing on getting slotted fronts and rears?
And yes, these are direct OE replacements. YOU ARE CORRECT!</div>
Right...just need to double check the 4-lug Sonata rotors. If they are the same size as the stock GK Tibs, what's the pricing on getting slotted fronts and rears?
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ArcticChill)</div><div class='quotemain'>Right...just need to double check the 4-lug Sonata rotors. If they are the same size as the stock GK Tibs, what's the pricing on getting slotted fronts and rears?</div>
Here is ALL the pricing.... http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthrea...ead.php?t=30680
I still want to double check to be sure. Gimmie a few days. Im CRAZY busy!
Here is ALL the pricing.... http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthrea...ead.php?t=30680
I still want to double check to be sure. Gimmie a few days. Im CRAZY busy!
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For those of you who asked....
I have been bombarded with lots and lots of people asking me the differences between drilled vs. slotted. I will do my best to explain all I can in my words and opinions, which are shared by many top-notch racers and builders around the world. Although there are those who oppose our views, this is not to become a finger pointing session. Nearly an informative episode for those of you left scratching your heads about rotors.
Ever since the mid 50’s there has been a constant debate about what makes a proper rotor. The future MAY BE carbon fiber and ceramic compounds, but the present for most of us is cast iron.
The first upgrade from a basic rotor is usually vents – the rotor consists of 2 flat outside surfaces with vanes in between. That vent and vane arrangement is for cooling, and works by drawing hot air from the center of the rotor to be expelled from the outer diameter – acting as a centrifugal air pump, not by scooping air in.
Slots – A radial groove cut into the surface of the disc – serve a couple of purposes. One of those is to help remove debris from the disc surface; the other is to help expel gases created when braking.
In older material used to create performance braking systems, drivers and engineers noticed a gas boundary layer that appeared at the interface area of the pad and rotor (Where the pad and rotor came in contact). However these days it is not as big of a problem, slots are more than adequate to carry that gas away.
In those years where the older materials where used, that gas boundary, along with reducing weight, led to the popularity of drilled rotors. However, in the intervening period, the myth has persisted that cooling is the main reason for drilling rotors. Anyone that tells you that drilling rotors makes the disc run cooler, needs their medication checked! Although there is a belief among some that drilling can have a slight effect of cooling by drawing additional air in to the vanes, even those that subscribe to that theory say drilled rotors are more of a liability than a benefit.
Drilled holes tend to be stress risers and they tend to be a stress concentrator. Therefore a drilled rotor will tend to have a shorter life than an undrilled rotor. The contribution a drilled rotor made to the system, reducing gas and debris, can be accomplished with a slot. Not only will rotor life be shorter, but also an on-track failure is likely to be more catastrophic than most with a non-drilled disc.
To drill or not to drill? The simple answer is that you – the end user, consumer, racer, whatever – should never drill rotors. You may choose to purchase drilled rotors, but even that is becoming a trend of the past left to the car show crowd, and those guys from Germany! LOL! NASCAR, CART, IRL, WRC, and others are switching to slotted rotors instead of drilled rotors, mainly because of their proneness to cracking. Slotting actually removes less surface area than cross drilling, while maintaining its strength and high coefficient of friction. Thus, you have cooler running rotors.
The bottom line here is that drilled discs will run hotter because there is less surface area through which to manage and displace the heat generated by braking forces. This is why I am a firm believer in the value and effectiveness of slotted rotors. If companies attempt to displace those heating properties more by drilling bigger wholes, then the overall integrity of the rotor becomes more compromised, especially if they are using a smaller diameter rotor.
I have been bombarded with lots and lots of people asking me the differences between drilled vs. slotted. I will do my best to explain all I can in my words and opinions, which are shared by many top-notch racers and builders around the world. Although there are those who oppose our views, this is not to become a finger pointing session. Nearly an informative episode for those of you left scratching your heads about rotors.
Ever since the mid 50’s there has been a constant debate about what makes a proper rotor. The future MAY BE carbon fiber and ceramic compounds, but the present for most of us is cast iron.
The first upgrade from a basic rotor is usually vents – the rotor consists of 2 flat outside surfaces with vanes in between. That vent and vane arrangement is for cooling, and works by drawing hot air from the center of the rotor to be expelled from the outer diameter – acting as a centrifugal air pump, not by scooping air in.
Slots – A radial groove cut into the surface of the disc – serve a couple of purposes. One of those is to help remove debris from the disc surface; the other is to help expel gases created when braking.
In older material used to create performance braking systems, drivers and engineers noticed a gas boundary layer that appeared at the interface area of the pad and rotor (Where the pad and rotor came in contact). However these days it is not as big of a problem, slots are more than adequate to carry that gas away.
In those years where the older materials where used, that gas boundary, along with reducing weight, led to the popularity of drilled rotors. However, in the intervening period, the myth has persisted that cooling is the main reason for drilling rotors. Anyone that tells you that drilling rotors makes the disc run cooler, needs their medication checked! Although there is a belief among some that drilling can have a slight effect of cooling by drawing additional air in to the vanes, even those that subscribe to that theory say drilled rotors are more of a liability than a benefit.
Drilled holes tend to be stress risers and they tend to be a stress concentrator. Therefore a drilled rotor will tend to have a shorter life than an undrilled rotor. The contribution a drilled rotor made to the system, reducing gas and debris, can be accomplished with a slot. Not only will rotor life be shorter, but also an on-track failure is likely to be more catastrophic than most with a non-drilled disc.
To drill or not to drill? The simple answer is that you – the end user, consumer, racer, whatever – should never drill rotors. You may choose to purchase drilled rotors, but even that is becoming a trend of the past left to the car show crowd, and those guys from Germany! LOL! NASCAR, CART, IRL, WRC, and others are switching to slotted rotors instead of drilled rotors, mainly because of their proneness to cracking. Slotting actually removes less surface area than cross drilling, while maintaining its strength and high coefficient of friction. Thus, you have cooler running rotors.
The bottom line here is that drilled discs will run hotter because there is less surface area through which to manage and displace the heat generated by braking forces. This is why I am a firm believer in the value and effectiveness of slotted rotors. If companies attempt to displace those heating properties more by drilling bigger wholes, then the overall integrity of the rotor becomes more compromised, especially if they are using a smaller diameter rotor.
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You know, you honestly didn't need to post that. If people can't learn to search on their own...then they should be giving their money to people who know what they're doing. tongue.gif:
Edit: I know the pricing is on the NT page, but that doesn't include the Sonata 4-bolt rotors though.
Edit: I know the pricing is on the NT page, but that doesn't include the Sonata 4-bolt rotors though.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ArcticChill)</div><div class='quotemain'>You know, you honestly didn't need to post that. If people can't learn to search on their own...then they should be giving their money to people who know what they're doing. tongue.gif:
Edit: I know the pricing is on the NT page, but that doesn't include the Sonata 4-bolt rotors though.</div>
Im sorry, Im still checking on that. Ive been sick these last few days. My head is in a fog!
Edit: I know the pricing is on the NT page, but that doesn't include the Sonata 4-bolt rotors though.</div>
Im sorry, Im still checking on that. Ive been sick these last few days. My head is in a fog!
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Johns03Tib)</div><div class='quotemain'>OK, I just found out that the stock 03 Sonata rotors are 10.118inches. What size are the RDs stock?</div>
Same. Wow. Disappointing. Technically, the newer stock Sonata rotors were supposed to be bigger...like 11.1 inches or so...same size as GK rotors. Bah. You know if they can do a custom one of 11"-12" diamter rotors with the same specs as the RD Tib rotors (minus the diameter, of cours)?
Same. Wow. Disappointing. Technically, the newer stock Sonata rotors were supposed to be bigger...like 11.1 inches or so...same size as GK rotors. Bah. You know if they can do a custom one of 11"-12" diamter rotors with the same specs as the RD Tib rotors (minus the diameter, of cours)?
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Vehicle: 2001/Hyundai/Tiburon
the sonata rotors were bigger. there was a picture of them underneath the stockers, and you could definately see the difference. make sure you are searching for the sonata rotors made for vehicles equipped with abs john.