Question for RED or RANDOM!!
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Thanks for the info!!
In conclusion can you think of anything else which i should be aware of during the install,
ie:how much difference in HP betwwen a cat and not installing one?
Which 3inch inlet cat has the highest CFM EXCEPT RANDOM TECH would you know off!!
Sorry for all the questions smile.gif
In conclusion can you think of anything else which i should be aware of during the install,
ie:how much difference in HP betwwen a cat and not installing one?
Which 3inch inlet cat has the highest CFM EXCEPT RANDOM TECH would you know off!!
Sorry for all the questions smile.gif
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Highest flowing catalysts on the market are made by Carsound. Hot Rod magazine had a catalyst shootout about six months ago and the Carsound cats won by a good margin.
I don't know what is involved in the kit, so I couldn't warn you of anything else. The biggest deal is IF you have a choice between power and safety, always go safety first. If you are unsure about fuel, just add more to be safe. The worst you can do is clog your cat and eat too much gas (better than burning a piston or worse) If you are unsure about the ignition timing, retard it further. The worst you can do is have high EGT's and less power.
Dyno tuning is imperative with a turbo setup. Don't hammer the engine until you KNOW it's running right.
-Red-
I don't know what is involved in the kit, so I couldn't warn you of anything else. The biggest deal is IF you have a choice between power and safety, always go safety first. If you are unsure about fuel, just add more to be safe. The worst you can do is clog your cat and eat too much gas (better than burning a piston or worse) If you are unsure about the ignition timing, retard it further. The worst you can do is have high EGT's and less power.
Dyno tuning is imperative with a turbo setup. Don't hammer the engine until you KNOW it's running right.
-Red-
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I was reading through the Instructions on the install and didnt like the idea that alpine drills into our block for the oil feed return line.Most guys just tap into their oil pan which would be alot easier and safer if you ask me,other than that it should be ok.
I will be Thermo wrapping everything from manifold to intercooler piping.Everything inside the engine bay.
The other issue which i still not sure about would be where to sit my Air filter.I want to use the current set-up which i have installed in my car where is a similar style to the AOS intake by speedsate.I cant place it into my fenderwell cause my canister is in there!!!
I quess that all i can think of FOR NOW!!
I will be Thermo wrapping everything from manifold to intercooler piping.Everything inside the engine bay.
The other issue which i still not sure about would be where to sit my Air filter.I want to use the current set-up which i have installed in my car where is a similar style to the AOS intake by speedsate.I cant place it into my fenderwell cause my canister is in there!!!
I quess that all i can think of FOR NOW!!
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I would recommend the BEGI fuel pressure regulator in this situation for only one reason. With the larger injectors you will be fine in terms of having adequet fuel to tune in.
But the BEGI FPR can be adjusted to increase fuel pressure at tip in... it actually starts to raise fuel pressure before the turbo makes boost. I think it will help with the tip in detonation or throttle transition detonation that you will see with a small and/or quick spooling turbo. I would set the FPR to a low setting... 1 psi fuel pressure rise: 1 psi boost pressure. The "high" S-AFC setting will be a little trickier but well worth it if you can avoid the popcorn sound at tip in.
Also a voltage clamp may help with the check engine light... don't ask me where to get it... some add on ECU's have it. I think that HKS sells one.
[ January 24, 2002: Message edited by: Cheuk in Seoul ]
But the BEGI FPR can be adjusted to increase fuel pressure at tip in... it actually starts to raise fuel pressure before the turbo makes boost. I think it will help with the tip in detonation or throttle transition detonation that you will see with a small and/or quick spooling turbo. I would set the FPR to a low setting... 1 psi fuel pressure rise: 1 psi boost pressure. The "high" S-AFC setting will be a little trickier but well worth it if you can avoid the popcorn sound at tip in.
Also a voltage clamp may help with the check engine light... don't ask me where to get it... some add on ECU's have it. I think that HKS sells one.
[ January 24, 2002: Message edited by: Cheuk in Seoul ]
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CHEUK!!
Since the stock pressure is around 44psi at idle,with the 440cc injectors installed and all the settings the RED listed above how much should i increase the pressure on the FPR at?
Up 5 psi?
FROM 44psi to ????
Since the stock pressure is around 44psi at idle,with the 440cc injectors installed and all the settings the RED listed above how much should i increase the pressure on the FPR at?
Up 5 psi?
FROM 44psi to ????
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The BEGI turbo fuel pressure regulator has several settings.
1. Base pressure.... set it at stock levels
2. Ratio of fuel pressure rise psi: boost pressure rise psi... I would set it at approximately 1:1
3. Onset of fuel pressure rise... this is a new feature, previously the FPR were set up to trigger at a certain level... just before 0 psi. Now this is variable, and I haven't got my hands on the new model to play with it.
1. Base pressure.... set it at stock levels
2. Ratio of fuel pressure rise psi: boost pressure rise psi... I would set it at approximately 1:1
3. Onset of fuel pressure rise... this is a new feature, previously the FPR were set up to trigger at a certain level... just before 0 psi. Now this is variable, and I haven't got my hands on the new model to play with it.
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If you have the BEGI TURBO FPR it will tell you in the instructions how to set each of the levels. These setting are made by turning some screws on the FPR.
Baseline pressure... leave it stock.
In terms of psi rise ratio. All TURBO FPR increase the stock fuel pressures when it sees boost.... this ratio can be 1:1 or 2:1... etc or variable as in the BEGI FPR.
In a 1:1 system... lets say that the stock fuel pressure is 50 psi at some point (rpm, throttle position) and the engine makes 1 psi... well the TURBO FPR will increase this to 50+1 = 51 psi. If it makes 10 psi then the FPR will increase the fuel pressure to 50+10 = 60 psi. This is how the engine gets more fuel when on boost.
The final component is the adjustable throttle transition boost enrichment. I believe that the BEGI TURBO FPR enriches or increases the fuel pressure just before the engine makes 0 psi or when the engine is about to make boost. So that there is no "lag" between when the engine makes boost and when the FPR adds fuel.
You could tune the car without the FPR and see if you can control the throttle transition problems with just the S AFC. You can always add the FPR later if you need to.
Baseline pressure... leave it stock.
In terms of psi rise ratio. All TURBO FPR increase the stock fuel pressures when it sees boost.... this ratio can be 1:1 or 2:1... etc or variable as in the BEGI FPR.
In a 1:1 system... lets say that the stock fuel pressure is 50 psi at some point (rpm, throttle position) and the engine makes 1 psi... well the TURBO FPR will increase this to 50+1 = 51 psi. If it makes 10 psi then the FPR will increase the fuel pressure to 50+10 = 60 psi. This is how the engine gets more fuel when on boost.
The final component is the adjustable throttle transition boost enrichment. I believe that the BEGI TURBO FPR enriches or increases the fuel pressure just before the engine makes 0 psi or when the engine is about to make boost. So that there is no "lag" between when the engine makes boost and when the FPR adds fuel.
You could tune the car without the FPR and see if you can control the throttle transition problems with just the S AFC. You can always add the FPR later if you need to.