Question for RED or RANDOM!!
I remember a couple of months ago someone on this board had a problem when they installed the RC 440CC injectors when they had a turbo installed in their tibby?
I did a search and couldnt find anything plus i also went on the FXtreme board and NOTHING!!
The problem was that the car wasnt idling correct at idle and i believe you made him change his Calibration on the S-AFC to IN 1 OUT 1.
Please bare with me cause i dont know much about this unit!!
Im going to be installing my Turbo Kit as well as my 440cc RC injectors with all my other little Gagets!!
I wanted to know what settings on the S-AFC would i have to have it at!
I'm talking about the Calibration IN and OUT ETC plus i understand that it has to be tunned on a dyno to get my HIGH and Low map settings correct,but wanted to know after the Turbo install is complete what my settings on the S-AFC have to be at to be SAFE at until i go tune it at the DYNO!!
THANKS smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif
I did a search and couldnt find anything plus i also went on the FXtreme board and NOTHING!!
The problem was that the car wasnt idling correct at idle and i believe you made him change his Calibration on the S-AFC to IN 1 OUT 1.
Please bare with me cause i dont know much about this unit!!
Im going to be installing my Turbo Kit as well as my 440cc RC injectors with all my other little Gagets!!
I wanted to know what settings on the S-AFC would i have to have it at!
I'm talking about the Calibration IN and OUT ETC plus i understand that it has to be tunned on a dyno to get my HIGH and Low map settings correct,but wanted to know after the Turbo install is complete what my settings on the S-AFC have to be at to be SAFE at until i go tune it at the DYNO!!
THANKS smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif
Settings with 440cc injectors should basically be the following (IF you're using the stock ECU, stock fuel pressure and the stock MAF sensor with your turbo kit)
Hotwire settings:
Type 01
In 1, Out 1
Ne points:
1000
2000
3000
4000
5000
5500
6000
6500
Throttle settings:
Lo: 20%
Hi: 75%
Fuel settings:
Lo Throttle: -43% across the entire range
Hi Throttle: this MUST be tuned on a dyno, but you can start with the following:
1000: -43%
2000: -15%
3000 and above: zero
The one to watch is hi throttle. When you are tuning your turbo setup on the dyno, aim for a 12:1 air/fuel mixture (this is the "safe" side) and tune the Hi throttle map accordingly. You leave the Lo throttle settings at -43% so that you don't run rich at idle and low speeds / low load.
Depending on how much boost you're trying to run, you may still get check engine lights from MAF sensor overload at high boost. That's just something you will have to deal with...
-Red-
Hotwire settings:
Type 01
In 1, Out 1
Ne points:
1000
2000
3000
4000
5000
5500
6000
6500
Throttle settings:
Lo: 20%
Hi: 75%
Fuel settings:
Lo Throttle: -43% across the entire range
Hi Throttle: this MUST be tuned on a dyno, but you can start with the following:
1000: -43%
2000: -15%
3000 and above: zero
The one to watch is hi throttle. When you are tuning your turbo setup on the dyno, aim for a 12:1 air/fuel mixture (this is the "safe" side) and tune the Hi throttle map accordingly. You leave the Lo throttle settings at -43% so that you don't run rich at idle and low speeds / low load.
Depending on how much boost you're trying to run, you may still get check engine lights from MAF sensor overload at high boost. That's just something you will have to deal with...
-Red-
One more IMPORTANT note...
This also does not correct for throttle transition detonation (also known as tip-in detonation in the Honda world). Your turbo, if it's small enough, may start producing boost even with the throttle only partially open or in-transition (you're pressing it open.)
If you even BEGIN to think you're having problems with tip-in detonation because of a small turbo spooling at partial throttle, then you will want to adjust your "throttle settings" to something around: Lo 10% Hi: 40%
Keep an eye on your AFC's throttle percentage for when your turbo starts to spool up. If you notice your AFC is reading 18% throttle and anything after that makes your turbo spool, then your LO throttle setting should be at 18%.
Don't confuse "throttle setting" with the actual fuel map!
-Red-
This also does not correct for throttle transition detonation (also known as tip-in detonation in the Honda world). Your turbo, if it's small enough, may start producing boost even with the throttle only partially open or in-transition (you're pressing it open.)
If you even BEGIN to think you're having problems with tip-in detonation because of a small turbo spooling at partial throttle, then you will want to adjust your "throttle settings" to something around: Lo 10% Hi: 40%
Keep an eye on your AFC's throttle percentage for when your turbo starts to spool up. If you notice your AFC is reading 18% throttle and anything after that makes your turbo spool, then your LO throttle setting should be at 18%.
Don't confuse "throttle setting" with the actual fuel map!
-Red-
Thanks RED!!
Im installing the Alpine turbo kit as well as a BEGI FPR and not the small FPR that supplied by Alpine.
I WILL BE RUNNING NO MORE THAN 7PSI ON THE STOCK INTERNALS,A little higher up to 10PSI on SPECIAL EVENTS
Will these settings that you posted above change in any way?
THANKS
smile.gif smile.gif
Im installing the Alpine turbo kit as well as a BEGI FPR and not the small FPR that supplied by Alpine.
I WILL BE RUNNING NO MORE THAN 7PSI ON THE STOCK INTERNALS,A little higher up to 10PSI on SPECIAL EVENTS
Will these settings that you posted above change in any way?
THANKS
smile.gif smile.gif
If you're running an FPR then you may still be running rich. Thus the low-throttle fuel map settings may still be to high, you may want to run them all the way to -50% to keep it lean on idle.
Otherwise, the hi throttle settings should be adequate for now, but you DEFINATELY want to have it tuned before running it hard.
-Red-
Otherwise, the hi throttle settings should be adequate for now, but you DEFINATELY want to have it tuned before running it hard.
-Red-
Stock injectors and 7psi would require better than 70psi of fuel pressure.
Howabout this? You do NOT install the fuel pressure riser at all, period. You don't need more fuel pressure with the 440cc injectors, because you're already going to have enough fuel. And 44.3psi of stock fuel pressure isn't going to be offset by 7psi of boost on the manifold anytime soon.
Leave the aftermarket fuel pressure regulator completely off the car and your life will be much easier.
-Red-
Howabout this? You do NOT install the fuel pressure riser at all, period. You don't need more fuel pressure with the 440cc injectors, because you're already going to have enough fuel. And 44.3psi of stock fuel pressure isn't going to be offset by 7psi of boost on the manifold anytime soon.
Leave the aftermarket fuel pressure regulator completely off the car and your life will be much easier.
-Red-
Will do RED THANKS!!
Plus i have the MSD Igniton installed which would be good to RETARD the timming.I understand its hard to say how much degree per pound to retard,but you think 2-3 degrees sounds about right?
smile.gif
Plus i have the MSD Igniton installed which would be good to RETARD the timming.I understand its hard to say how much degree per pound to retard,but you think 2-3 degrees sounds about right?
smile.gif
Start at 2, that should be sufficient for only 7psi. I think Onpol is using 1.5 degrees per pound.
Intercooler efficiency, outside heat, fuel quality and "richness" of the air/fuel mixture will affect how much ignition timing you need to pull.
-Red-
Intercooler efficiency, outside heat, fuel quality and "richness" of the air/fuel mixture will affect how much ignition timing you need to pull.
-Red-



