The port & polish are done to the valve seats and cylinder head (read: on the engine block), boring is done to the intake manifold(the part that bolts up to the block and directs the air towards the intake valves) and throttle body(which controls the air flow into the intake manifold).

The F-150 has a lot more power to start with--so the RELATIVE increase isn't as much as 25 hp would be on a tiburon. Also, it's a V6, and the cylinder, intake, and overall engine design is way different. It's like comparing apples to snow cones. If we don't get as much out of a port & polish, it probably means our system was designed better to begin with.

And perhaps unlike your friend's ford truck you will benefit significantly from a high-flow exhaust. It doesn't have to be a ricer fart pipe--search around a bit. In the last week alone a number of people here have asked about quiet exhaust systems.

If you can get a TB bored out locally, go for it. But make sure they use a tapered bore to maximize flow. 58mm is about as large as you can go on the stock unit before the walls get too thin. Aftermarket TB's like the SR Barney throttle come with a stiffer spring & different pulley to enhance accelerator response.(Note that this info only applies to the 2001 tib in your profile)

To get any benefit from the TB you have to have the intake manifold bored to the same diameter as the mating surface of the TB. Onpol's person also enlarges the runners to match the ports on the block, and polishes them to enhance the flow. If the shop does this incorrectly it could be disasterous--your injectors stick in there, the last thing you want is to screw up the way they sit.

And please, don't rely on people's experiences with trucks to guide you in modifying imports. Sure, they all use internal combustion engines, but the whole approach to design behind the american truck and the import economy car are vastly different and this reflects in the capabilities of the engines.

[ April 23, 2002, 07:22 PM: Message edited by: Veniston ]

 

how would i get in touch with onpol? also, does he have experience with the accent 1.6L?

 

The Gains on the Bored TB and Bored IM are so small because, as I stated, that was on a bone stock motor with the air box still installed. I would expect bigger gains on a car that had headers, cat back, CAI, etc... on it.

The port and polish job is only as good as the shop that does the work. Red's motor dyno'ed out at 135 HP to the wheels...he later found out that was when he was running on 3 cylinders. Did it make a difference in his motor...hell yes, we just don't know how much.

Porting and polishing is an art form, not a science. What works on a honda motor will not necessarly work on a Hyundai motor. What works on a Mitsubishi motor won't necessarly work on a daewoo motor. There are 1000 ways to screw up a port and polish job, and very few ways to get it right. Make sure the shop that does the work has a good reputation and knows their stuff. It may cost more to go to a quality shop, but the results will be worth it.

 

the most acurate way to tune intake and exaust ports... is to a pick your cams and headers... B take heads to shop C hook up flow bentch.. d run sonic guage to check metal thickness... write meausure ments and draw port diagram e start taking light amout of metal from areas that you think will help flow... f hook back up to flow bentch check data... if an improvement is shown then blend the grinded areas... then last retake measurements of final porting and redraw diagram... keep in mind not every shop will draw diagrams like my neighbor.. but they should at least have measurements. make the shop you take it too show you these items... and then you will have an idea of what they did to it.. now if they want to have custom valve grinds and raise size of the valve ask for the old ones back... the reason you need the cam data is you need to know the lift on the valve... at a different lift a valve has a different distance from the valve seat... and this diffent distance can change the way they need to do the port because the are can flow different around the valve... its an art doing heads... and a pro will do all of this for you... depends... some shops specailize in 4 cyclinder import motors... some in v8's.... the guy i work with is my neighbor and all he does is cylinder heads... mostly V8 top fuel... thats his whole business.. been doing it for 20 plus years... he will tell you the same thing as Random said what works on one doesn't work on another... me i used to work at his shop when i was younger... so i can do my heads and get some help when i need it... i want to work on my tiburon but the damn classic truck has to be finnished first... errr there isn't enought time in the day for my stuff. Hope that gives you an idea of what is done to your heads.. last think size of engine is relative to horse power gain thats why the 150 v8 saw 25hp and the tiburon see's 9hp

[ April 23, 2002, 11:49 PM: Message edited by: ignoreance ]

 

onpol@prtc.net

Dunno, ask him smile.gif

 

After reading some of the 'stuff' put forth here by you guys, I wouldn't trust anyone on my engine. I am not knocking on Onpol, I don't know him, and he has not replied here so he is out of the equation. But the rest of you guys .... sheesh.

All the more reason to send your gear to someone that really knows what the hell is going on. As I mentioned in my other post, the money you put forth to Extrude Hone will be well spent on quality work that can be trusted. Ford wouldn't send off 4,000 SVT Contour intake sytems to some garage hack. 25HP on a 2.5L V6 also says something for the work as well. I would expect them to produce far more than a measly 5HP. Extrude Hone will gasket match and fully polish the entire intake runner. This is not some job that stops cuz you can't stuff the die grinder any further up the runner.

Extrude Hone

How it works

 

my question to you is how am i going to ship my engine down from Toronto, Canada to Irwin, PA along with my Tb and Im and not pay $10,000 in shipping fees??

i have to find people over here to do it.

 

Well .... you see this is how it works ... In 10 easy to follow steps.

1 - Hop in your car and take a spin over to Sears
2 - Buy yourself a whole mess of Craftsmen tools
3 - Put the tools in the trunk and head home
4 - Pick up pizza and beer on the way
5 - Go home, remove tools from trunk, consume pizza and beer
6 - Use shiny new tools to remove the IM and head if you wish it to be done as well
7 - Find suitable box and packing material
8 - Pack the IM and head and send to PA
9 - Patiently await its return
10 - Reassemble the car in reverse order, with not so shiny Craftsmen tools, while consuming piza and beer

Voila .... enjoy the newfound power.

 

Well, 'Digital', that's all well and good until you consider the fact that the cost you just just described falls only a fist-full of dollars shy of $1,000 Canadian. Hell, the pizza and beer will run almost $50 up there. (The beer is worth it tho )

In the 'Analog' world, there are other levels between zero and perfection. Most people don't have unlimited funds and tons of connections. You go what you can afford, figure out what's the best bang for the buck. I looked at Extrude Hone, I can afford it but it isn't worth it to me. It's up to Andre to decide if it is for him.

 

Maybe this is a lttle too obvious but dont they have a large Canadian Hyundai Group up there I think its

Hyundai club of Ontario

Maybe they have links to places in the North

[ April 24, 2002, 09:50 PM: Message edited by: Knightcreeper ]